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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/19/2018 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Just like to wish forum members near and far a very happy Christmas, have only been a member for a short while, although linked by an affinity for Landrovers in their many guises I find the assistance and advice given to what is essentially a faceless stranger for most members, exceptional .I personally should have joined years ago thank you.Whatever your projects or repairs are in 2019 I wish you success and fun in doing them Stephen
  2. 8 points
    Without pictures it didn't happen so...... Mike
  3. 7 points
    I think Britpart sell head gaskets in packs of ten.
  4. 7 points
    I nearly wet myself, this is so bang on the mark: https://sniffpetrol.com/2018/04/24/boom-times-for-companies-that-completely-ruin-land-rover-defenders/
  5. 6 points
    Just to help a liitle i have marked ALL the water ingress points in BLACK for you and anyone else who is interested!?! There, i think that about covers it!?!
  6. 6 points
    And finally.................................... I have a Q registration number. V5 to follow in about 2 weeks. Mike
  7. 5 points
    Earnt it's keep today. Moved a friend's 25 foot ranger about 3.5ton all up. Made it work up some of the hills and the gearing is definitely a little tall. But she did admirably, the temp guage stayed put in the middle and the oil pressure light didn't even flicker. Mike
  8. 5 points
  9. 5 points
    Spent my sunday morning get this kit fitted, in all a easy job, hardest part was drilling/tapping the 4 holes to M3 for the control box screws. I found the loom plenty long enough for a RHD 90/110, the slider as shown in the kit pictures has the 2 terminals at the bottom, so I fitted mine like that, when all done & switched on the fan was running with the slider fully up in what was the orignal off position, moving the slider down to full actually switched it off, so the instrument panel was extracted & slider turned round so the 2 terminals are at the top, now when switched on, with the slider fully up at the icon O position, fan was off, moved the slider down to 2 position & fan speeded up as expected, so all done, here's some photo's of the fitting with notes. the control box needs thermal paste on its bottom face [sachet supplied in the kit] to give it a good chance I removed the paint from heater box where the control box was going to be fitted. the kit instruction don't say what to do with the 3 disconnected wires from the original slider, so these were taped up & tucked out of harms way, the control cable is pushed fully in to its outer sleeve & also taped in place. retain the hand grip & screw to fit to the new slider & don't loose the green cable clip, I put mine back on the old removed slider. most of the photo's are self explanatory. 1. the starting point, 4 screws to remove to extract instrumment pack. 2. instrument pack moved & 2 screws removed to extract original slider, disconnect the 3 wires & the green cable clip & ring of control cable from mechanism, push cable fully in. 3. original slider removed, green cable clip put back in it's slots, so it doesn't get lost, these green clips are used on the outside of heater box too. also remove the hand grip & screw for fit to new slider switch. 4. disconnected wires & control cable taped up to prevent any problems & then the wires were tucked out of the way. 5. the new loom threaded through as per instructions from engine bay side, the wire end are pre terminated to fit in the new plug, match the wires to the socket wires on new slider. 6. instructions do not say which way to fit the slider part, I found a fit guide on defender2 forum which said the 2 wires to the bottom, this is shown in one photo on instruction but not in text, so I follwed the info, but found it wrong for my 110, had to remove it again & refit with the 2 at the top, then it works correct for my 110. also had to trim the handgrip brass strip a bit & the recess in handgrip to get it to sit in place correctly, the grip & screw is the original. 7. looks very good fitted in place & instrument pack refitted, could almost be a original factory fit item. 8. clearance check at off position, site clear of my Kenwood TM-D700 ham radio control head, so very happy. 9. loom routed acrossback of engine bay, ty-wrapped to the heater control cables, the loom is plenty long enough for a RHD 90/110. 10, removed the paint from location control box is going to fit, this needs thermal paste applied [sachet included in the kit] to heater box & control box lower face before final fit. 11. control box finally wired & ready to fit in place. 4 x 2.5mm holes to drill & tap to M3 thread for it's 4 screws. 12. control box earth wire connected. 13. control box final fit, on top of the heater unit, it does sit clear of the bonnet frame. so all good. 14, back in the cab for a functional test, works very well, fan run as soon as slide is moved from off & speed increases as slide is moved to full 2 position. job finished, tools away & time for a brew
  10. 4 points
    Some time ago as something of an extravagant eBay impulse purchase I bought a small Proxxon MF70 with CNC conversion as the "missing link" in my tool collection, figuring with a mill & a lathe you can make anything. Life got in the way but I've finally dug it out and set it up - as you can see it's small enough to have on your desk which is part of the attraction for learning: I downloaded LinuxCNC and am currently running it inside a virtual machine (which is a terrible idea and should not be attempted by anyone) on my indoor PC just to get the hang of it, lo and behold I actually got it to do a thing: I'm not about to actually mill stuff in the house as it will throw carp everywhere, but I can at least work out the toolchain before moving to a dedicated PC and moving it all to the shed where mess can be made. I'm hoping to get a bit of tinkering time over the festive period so will post updates.
  11. 4 points
    Hi, Just found this in another forum. Could it be what's hiding in mule's clothing? http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/steam-powered-land-rover-photos-videos-70639?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=12-20-18#post123450 Mike
  12. 4 points
    I try to stay away from Britpart but that looks quite good
  13. 4 points
    apologies if this has been seen before, sent to me just now it made me smile.
  14. 4 points
    No it isn't. It's complicated, f**k ugly stuff for rich people
  15. 4 points
    Giving an autobox 9 speeds is like giving a woman 48 pairs of shoes. Too much time thinking about choices, not enough time moving forward
  16. 4 points
    DOHC diesels have been around for years - nothing special about them. Require minimal day to day servicing - cam belts etc are no harder or easier than any other belt OHC engine. Brakes - the same as any modern vehicle. No problem. Suspension arms are basically the same as any modern IFS vehicle - yes airbags are different but are relatively simple to replace though rarely needed. The air system itself is just a series of tubes and valve blocks all easy to service if needed - the main issue is the compressor which are rebuildable or easily replaced. Gearbox, tfr case and diffs are easily maintained but if there is a gearbox or tfr case problem then they are off to the experts. Sorry if you look at these vehicles in the cold light of day and without the bull - underneath they are not a lot different to other vehicles. Yes some things are best left to the technicians but most routine maintenance is possible at home. My car is now 11 years old, is used offroad quite a bit - it still has its original air compressor, all original suspension components, original engine, gearbox, diffs and tfr case, but it does have a new alternator early in the year - took about 1 hour 20 mins to do - outstanding work I will do shortly - complete rear brakes (the fronts done last month and took about 1 1/2 hours) and front lower suspension arms - I will probably get someone to put the suspension arms in as I have arthritic shoulders and probably could not undo the hi torque bolts without hurting myself but you only need to watch Youtube to find out how to do these and many other maintenance work on these cars. Once you start working on these cars the mystic soon disappears.
  17. 4 points
    Checked on my engine hour meter 2 days ago, now got over 307 hours running since the rebuild, all running fine
  18. 4 points
    Obligatory 'grinning like a loon' pic...
  19. 4 points
    Out of interest, if someone could produce a kit like this for half the price, would people be interested? ...just hypothetically of course
  20. 4 points
    They spec the parts though, and test them before accepting them. As TSD discovered doing an autopsy, even a genuine Bosch starter motor that fits a TDi does not have the same level of sealing as a genuine Land Rover starter motor made by Bosch. Likewise almost any part fitted by any manufacturer Vs the OEM replacement. As for blue boxes, I reckon their stuff is specced by sending a blurry camera-phone photo of the part to China and taking the lowest bid on something that looks like it might just fit if you squint and stand a long way away.
  21. 4 points
    Good news. Thanks to your replies, I hammered on a snug fitting 24mm Halfords Advanced socket. All went well and with a little more penetration fluid and some pushing and pulling on the breaker bar, it came off. Wondering if I would need another socket, I forced a bolt into the nut, clamped it tight in a vice and hammered it free. Socket looks servcable! Result! Thanks for all the replies and so glad I didn’t need to get to welding near the alloy wheel. Neil
  22. 4 points
    After viewing the last three, I think we are going to need a bigger bucket.
  23. 4 points
    Good satire is rooted in truth... Enjoyed the article, will continue to chuckle at what's it's poking fun at.
  24. 3 points
    Hi Folks, Finally got round to giving it another go. This time, the seal seemed to fit better around the windscreen glass by leaving a little more of the excess at the four corners. Fitted a rope into the groove and lubed up with some silicon spray (the stuff used for fitting plastic drain pipes). With the help of my better half, we positioned the screen and started fitting. It was all pretty straight forward except for one corner which as a complete *itch. That said, once all pulled round and tapped in place, it's fitted really well. Not had time to test it for leaks yet. Thanks for all the tips. Some images attached. Simon...
  25. 3 points
    welds had seam sealer applied & later a top coat of arles blue paint, steering column, clutch,brake pedal units & servo got a tidy up with some matt black, just waiting for the paint to dry then I can start bolting it back together tomorrow.


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