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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/22/2018 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Without pictures it didn't happen so...... Mike
  2. 7 points
    I think Britpart sell head gaskets in packs of ten.
  3. 7 points
    I nearly wet myself, this is so bang on the mark: https://sniffpetrol.com/2018/04/24/boom-times-for-companies-that-completely-ruin-land-rover-defenders/
  4. 6 points
    Just to help a liitle i have marked ALL the water ingress points in BLACK for you and anyone else who is interested!?! There, i think that about covers it!?!
  5. 6 points
    And finally.................................... I have a Q registration number. V5 to follow in about 2 weeks. Mike
  6. 6 points
    Yesterday my good friend David and I were out playing on a local farm where we able to get permission to enjoy the weather with our Land Rovers. Basically we decided that David can break trails, he drives with 35's year rounds. I drive a lot of miles during the winter so I opt for studded 235's. Even with the 35's it didn't take very long for David to bury the 90. Even though I was following David, I was still plowing snow and as we can see in this picture it was up to my headlights. No chance, David never even saw the ditch and when he felt it, it was too late. Lunch on the trail.
  7. 5 points
    Earnt it's keep today. Moved a friend's 25 foot ranger about 3.5ton all up. Made it work up some of the hills and the gearing is definitely a little tall. But she did admirably, the temp guage stayed put in the middle and the oil pressure light didn't even flicker. Mike
  8. 5 points
  9. 5 points
    Spent my sunday morning get this kit fitted, in all a easy job, hardest part was drilling/tapping the 4 holes to M3 for the control box screws. I found the loom plenty long enough for a RHD 90/110, the slider as shown in the kit pictures has the 2 terminals at the bottom, so I fitted mine like that, when all done & switched on the fan was running with the slider fully up in what was the orignal off position, moving the slider down to full actually switched it off, so the instrument panel was extracted & slider turned round so the 2 terminals are at the top, now when switched on, with the slider fully up at the icon O position, fan was off, moved the slider down to 2 position & fan speeded up as expected, so all done, here's some photo's of the fitting with notes. the control box needs thermal paste on its bottom face [sachet supplied in the kit] to give it a good chance I removed the paint from heater box where the control box was going to be fitted. the kit instruction don't say what to do with the 3 disconnected wires from the original slider, so these were taped up & tucked out of harms way, the control cable is pushed fully in to its outer sleeve & also taped in place. retain the hand grip & screw to fit to the new slider & don't loose the green cable clip, I put mine back on the old removed slider. most of the photo's are self explanatory. 1. the starting point, 4 screws to remove to extract instrumment pack. 2. instrument pack moved & 2 screws removed to extract original slider, disconnect the 3 wires & the green cable clip & ring of control cable from mechanism, push cable fully in. 3. original slider removed, green cable clip put back in it's slots, so it doesn't get lost, these green clips are used on the outside of heater box too. also remove the hand grip & screw for fit to new slider switch. 4. disconnected wires & control cable taped up to prevent any problems & then the wires were tucked out of the way. 5. the new loom threaded through as per instructions from engine bay side, the wire end are pre terminated to fit in the new plug, match the wires to the socket wires on new slider. 6. instructions do not say which way to fit the slider part, I found a fit guide on defender2 forum which said the 2 wires to the bottom, this is shown in one photo on instruction but not in text, so I follwed the info, but found it wrong for my 110, had to remove it again & refit with the 2 at the top, then it works correct for my 110. also had to trim the handgrip brass strip a bit & the recess in handgrip to get it to sit in place correctly, the grip & screw is the original. 7. looks very good fitted in place & instrument pack refitted, could almost be a original factory fit item. 8. clearance check at off position, site clear of my Kenwood TM-D700 ham radio control head, so very happy. 9. loom routed acrossback of engine bay, ty-wrapped to the heater control cables, the loom is plenty long enough for a RHD 90/110. 10, removed the paint from location control box is going to fit, this needs thermal paste applied [sachet included in the kit] to heater box & control box lower face before final fit. 11. control box finally wired & ready to fit in place. 4 x 2.5mm holes to drill & tap to M3 thread for it's 4 screws. 12. control box earth wire connected. 13. control box final fit, on top of the heater unit, it does sit clear of the bonnet frame. so all good. 14, back in the cab for a functional test, works very well, fan run as soon as slide is moved from off & speed increases as slide is moved to full 2 position. job finished, tools away & time for a brew
  10. 4 points
    Giving an autobox 9 speeds is like giving a woman 48 pairs of shoes. Too much time thinking about choices, not enough time moving forward
  11. 4 points
    DOHC diesels have been around for years - nothing special about them. Require minimal day to day servicing - cam belts etc are no harder or easier than any other belt OHC engine. Brakes - the same as any modern vehicle. No problem. Suspension arms are basically the same as any modern IFS vehicle - yes airbags are different but are relatively simple to replace though rarely needed. The air system itself is just a series of tubes and valve blocks all easy to service if needed - the main issue is the compressor which are rebuildable or easily replaced. Gearbox, tfr case and diffs are easily maintained but if there is a gearbox or tfr case problem then they are off to the experts. Sorry if you look at these vehicles in the cold light of day and without the bull - underneath they are not a lot different to other vehicles. Yes some things are best left to the technicians but most routine maintenance is possible at home. My car is now 11 years old, is used offroad quite a bit - it still has its original air compressor, all original suspension components, original engine, gearbox, diffs and tfr case, but it does have a new alternator early in the year - took about 1 hour 20 mins to do - outstanding work I will do shortly - complete rear brakes (the fronts done last month and took about 1 1/2 hours) and front lower suspension arms - I will probably get someone to put the suspension arms in as I have arthritic shoulders and probably could not undo the hi torque bolts without hurting myself but you only need to watch Youtube to find out how to do these and many other maintenance work on these cars. Once you start working on these cars the mystic soon disappears.
  12. 4 points
    Checked on my engine hour meter 2 days ago, now got over 307 hours running since the rebuild, all running fine
  13. 4 points
    Obligatory 'grinning like a loon' pic...
  14. 4 points
    Out of interest, if someone could produce a kit like this for half the price, would people be interested? ...just hypothetically of course
  15. 4 points
    They spec the parts though, and test them before accepting them. As TSD discovered doing an autopsy, even a genuine Bosch starter motor that fits a TDi does not have the same level of sealing as a genuine Land Rover starter motor made by Bosch. Likewise almost any part fitted by any manufacturer Vs the OEM replacement. As for blue boxes, I reckon their stuff is specced by sending a blurry camera-phone photo of the part to China and taking the lowest bid on something that looks like it might just fit if you squint and stand a long way away.
  16. 4 points
    Good news. Thanks to your replies, I hammered on a snug fitting 24mm Halfords Advanced socket. All went well and with a little more penetration fluid and some pushing and pulling on the breaker bar, it came off. Wondering if I would need another socket, I forced a bolt into the nut, clamped it tight in a vice and hammered it free. Socket looks servcable! Result! Thanks for all the replies and so glad I didn’t need to get to welding near the alloy wheel. Neil
  17. 4 points
    After viewing the last three, I think we are going to need a bigger bucket.
  18. 4 points
    Good satire is rooted in truth... Enjoyed the article, will continue to chuckle at what's it's poking fun at.
  19. 4 points
    I've been and gone and done it!...... IVA application goes in the post tomorrow. Mike
  20. 4 points
    Well , it was that time of year again MOT , so the 110 has been on the road for 12 months now after her rebuild and she passed with no advisories yipeeeeeee . Am well pleased . cheers Ian
  21. 4 points
    Giles - there was nothing xenophobic about that comment. Its a simple fact that different countries have different standards, and differences in the way people drive and what their experience in certain areas are. I'll give you an example. I live in France, and since roundabouts are a relatively new addition to French roads, a good proportion of people just dont know how to use them, some have never been trained or tested on them. Its not being prejudiced or xenophobic to say that, its simple fact. And for balance i'll add that i often forget about the unique French 'priority to the right' in towns & villages, and when i'm in Paris or Florence, i'm sure i'm not up to 100% with the local style. Please we've had enough snowflakes this week.
  22. 4 points
    Ok I'll (reluctantly) bite... would it be ok for your to keep your xenophobic (being polite) comments off this forum? Thanks very much
  23. 4 points
    Surely there are VW lumps we could use... they'll pass any test.
  24. 3 points
    A long time ago, in a galaxy swamp far way, this was my daily driver. A manual V8 converted to a 4.6, with Ashcroft lockers and a Milemarker hydraulic winch, named Piper. She did very well, both on and off the road. Unfortunately, it got destroyed when our workshop burned down in 2015. At that time I was registered to take her back to Ladoga, but obviously never made it. I drove another, standard, P38 for the last couple of years, but always wanted to rebuild a similar car. Now that our Workshop has been rebuilt and is operational again, the time as come to stop dreaming and start getting greasy. After lots of thought, I decided to start from another P38 I've had for some time, named Prue. Prue is/was a 4.6 automatic, and as soon as I found a manual one (Piper) I preferred driving that. She 'only' had a 4.0, so the 4.6 was transferred from Prue and Piper evolved into the above car. That left Prue as a 4.0 automatic, mainly driven by my girlfriend at the time. Eventually put aside with a water leak at the valley but I never got 'round to sorting her. Couldn't bring myself to sell or strip either, as she was my first V8. So now the time has come to bring her back to life. It wont be the easiest way though, as I want to convert to manual. She will be aptly renamed Phoenix. I've got a 5.0 engine block with all the goodies, a Megasquirt to power it (thanks to @FridgeFreezer) and managed to salvage the gearbox and flywheel/clutch from the burned Rangie. The Milemarker looks like it can be rebuilt as well. By chance I also came across a manual diesel P38. In a poor shape, but a perfect donor for the interior parts for a conversion to manual. First task is to get the MS running in a P38 with direct coil drive and reusing as much of the standard fuses, relays and wiring. Including the original CKP (hence the choice for direct coil drive). Test case will be a GEMS, but I've also got a later P38 with Bosch/Thor engine, and plan to use the intake manifold for the 5.0 to maximize torque. Next would be to install the manual box. I'm thinking a body off will probably be the easiest way to swap engine and gearbox. That will make it easy to redo the brakelines and stuff as well. And it's not that hard on a P38, as I've found out stripping the manual diesel. Arnott GenIII airsprings and longer Terrafirma dampers will also be installed. A new set of pegged Ashcroft lockers is on order, brakes will no doubt need refurbishing and bushes replaced. Most work will be the interior I fear. The dash has to be removed to get access to the pedalbox and install one with a clutch pedal... Still convinced I want a manual and the conversion is worth it! Once that's done, I'll get to building up the 5.0. So it wont sit around for too long before being fired up. Then there will be loads of smaller tasks. Like enlarging the wheel arches for the Mickey Thompson Baja Claws. Those were almost impossible to get, I had to resort to importing directly from the US, with an expensive surprise to get it out of the port and through customs. A custom bumper, based on the above design will be made. It's basically a hidden winch mount, with the standard inner bumper welded to it and the original plastic cover. A snorkel will need to be fitted, which requires a different airbox. Ideally she should be finished by April. To be pressed into service as a daily driver. The new LEZ in Brussels means I will no longer be allowed to drive my Esprit to work, as it predates the Euro emissions standards. So for the environment's sake I will have to trade in the 2.2 4-pot for a 5.0 V8. 🙂 LPG should keep things affordable. In May I need a good Rangie as a tow vehicle, to do tech support on a classic car run. Hoping we wont actually need the trailer, but she should be there and make an impression. And then there's Ladoga, as mentioned in another thread. And what got me to start this topic. I'll try to update regularly and add some pictures. Being the dinosaur I am, I don't have a fancy phone that outsmarts me, and getting my greasy paws on the good camera is frowned upon. So don't expect too much, unless @elbekko remembers to take some pics while helping me. Greetz, Filip
  25. 3 points
    Took the day off today so got a lot done. Starting with the fabbing of a front bush-bar/nose-bar/bull-bar or whatever you wish to call it Had realized that the radiator was way to vulnerable at the top as it sticks out a bit further from the front than the tubing, and I also needed a place to put the Winch-Line where it would be easy to reach. And finally it had to be removable for engine swapping: After that I drove out to my welder and told him to give it the usual treatment I then moved on to fitting some arches I had laying around just to stop the some of the mud before it hits my face And finally some poser-pics in the lovely Sunshine:


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