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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    A little more progress this weekend sees the front suspension back together and the front callipers assembled with pads and new pins. I have also put a couple of coats of paint on the fuel tank and steering box I then thought I would remove the loom from the old chassis. Cue some swearing and I was puzzled why it was stuck. I cut the top off a section of chassis and found the cause When I fitted the rear crossmember a few years ago I threaded the loom through a tennis ball to prevent it getting damaged from the welding. It worked perfectly by the looks of it. Just totally forgot I did that.
  2. 6 points
    I still don't understand the bitching about it being based on a Disco platform, given the "original" was effectively a Series body on a RR/Disco chassis... I mean how very dare they do exactly the same thing again, it's against tradition! Um... Anyway, I kinda like it.
  3. 6 points
    Right now, somewhere in Solihull, somebody in a big flouncy shirt is going into meltdown and shouting "WHY DIDN'T WE THINK OF THAT!!!"
  4. 5 points
    Retroanaconda, yesterday.
  5. 5 points
    Well it’s taken me a while but finally started putting it back together. No. 4 had a cracking bend in it so I’ve taken the chance to change them all as well as pretty much everything I can well I have access to it. Taking ages, but learning allot and enjoying the process. Thanks for all the help.
  6. 4 points
    Oooh, I can't resist this as its a new one on me. I have seen "superchargers" that run from your 12v cigarette lighter socket before, but this "supercharger" is spun by the flow of incoming air. This blockage in your induction system can also save you on fuel apparently..... Hang on, I get it now. It leaves the 12v lighter socket free to plug in your LED/capacitor fuel saver. Genius.
  7. 4 points
    Ok, I'l bite.. I finished the mockup of the adapter plate: I am trying to marry a VW 1.9 TDI engine to the Mahindra gearbox. It takes some doing before they say 'i do'. To make it as easy as possible, I started with a longitudinal mounted version of this engine, from a Passat, as this has the starter motor on the engine side, as well as more favourable engine mounts, a vacuum pump at the side of the engine, rather than at the back, and an engine mounted viscous Fan. At the heart of this is a Valeo solid flywheel conversion kit for a 130 HP TDI. The 130 HP engine has a larger diameter clutch, and this clamps the Jeep friction plate perfectly: I don'e have much in the way of machining equipment, but I do have CAD. I also found a factory drawing with mounting pattern dimensions for the VW TDI, as well as a Factory drawing for the mounting pattern of the Peugeot Indenor engine that normally lives in the Mahindra. This gave me the bolt pattern for the gearbox. On CAD, marying this up ended up looking like this: The good thing is that this will be acurate by design, and Via a waterjet cutter, I can get the adaptor plate cut from CAD. But first the plywood adapter To this can the Mahindra bell house now be fitted: So this is where I am now. next is dropping this lot in the chassis and see what obstacles we find next. It takes a while though.. Thanks for looking! Daan
  8. 4 points
    Hi gents! Sorry been neglectful. Yep you said it, been out enjoying myself. The Vogue has done about 2k in six weeks or so. My god it's thirsty, it's very much out of it's time. I mean back when a gallon of juice was £3 it would have been manageable, but now... pfft it's scary. I've been busy in the background and normal service will resume from here. Kind of ;). Don't sweat about channel momentum, I really like where it's at in terms of having a small but loyal following, sure it needs to be bigger to make life smoother for me but that'll come. I've realised I need more of my own time, to be healthy. I mean work/life balance, so the learning curve is still in effect. Hope the full RR feature floats a few boats. I still get enthralled by it despite having watched it a lot of times, there's a big element of 'did I actually do that?'
  9. 4 points
    Hi Everyone Time for a bunch of pics from my refurb and winch install onto my series 3. So i managed to bag a bargain off ebay, and this is how it arrived. So time for a strip down and see what it needed, as its had a hard life on the rear of a recovery truck from what i could find out. It was not in a such a bad shape, worn brushes, and lots of grime and neglect. I started off by ordering new brushes After some prep i had the whole thing painted in Grey, plus some new gaskets and plastic cover from the UK Got the commutator polished and started reassembly. Old VS New brushes. Fully assembled back to its glory Than it was time to start the Fabrication for a new bumper to accommodate the winch. I was lucky enough that the sale of winch had the winch plate included (had it blasted), so i incorporated that into my build. Now i wanted a specific style of bumper which was mounted higher than standard and looked more or less like what i had before ( standardish looking) . So went out and got some RHS........ and started mocking things up. To save on fab time i decided to use my old bumper as a doner for the chassis mounts (easier i thought at that time) and grafted them onto the RHS......... Next a quick check that it looked ok....... So i got some 3mm plate and doubled up the top and bottoms, tieing in the the old bumper mounts, its a lot of welding but the result was pretty pleasing. I then added some gussets at the old bumper mounts to make sure it will not go anywhere Than it was the light bars turn to be fitted, since i always liked the shape it was in, and its been on the vehicle trough the 3 bumpers i thought it was only appropriate that it gets reused. Its than off to the galvanizers for that series look............... So next was vehicle fitting............ i already had an extra X member right at the front at the dumb irons, so i added some more Gussets at the corners. And finally mounting the whole lot back onto the Landy.............. This is where i am the moment, next is wiring the winch up with an aftermarket winch control box. Than time for a new synth rope. Hope you all find it interesting, sorry for the long pic heavy post................ Regards Grem
  10. 4 points
    Well the transfer box replacement hasn't been entirely smooth, Smooth being the operative word. After I changed the box I noticed a vibration between 40 and 50 mph. At first I thought uj but on further investigation I spotted an oscillation on the hand brake drum. Tonight I stripped it out and put a clock on the rear out put flange, sure enough something isn't right. Turns out the output shaft is bent, Lord knows how . Yes you can get the shaft out with the box in the car and no I probably shouldn't of done what I have. I didn't have time to strip the other box and I don't really want to in case this one fails. So out with some vee blocks and the clock, yep it's definitely bent. Of coarse I didn't mark the high spot and put it in my press I wouldn't do that would I . Anyway it's back together now and I'll test drive it on my way to work in the morning. Mike
  11. 4 points
    Had a quick kite at it myself at Goodwood today , all the time listening to some sexy young beards getting horny over it , I think it was the same herd of pretty young things getting wet when it went up the hill , not sure if they appreciated my mumblings although to be fair I was also moaning about the price of the feckin beer at the same time . On a brighter note , the Twisted stand was impressive but not as impressive as the Army lads hoofing around the forest rally track in some standard 90s who took the time to have a natter to my young grandson , hats off to them .
  12. 4 points
    Don't bring material specs & knowledge into this rose tinted bun fight 😂😂😂
  13. 4 points
    Thought this was an interesting article with some great photos, and a good take on why we love our LR's despite their flaws... https://jalopnik.com/land-rover-and-mercedes-the-king-and-queen-of-the-saha-1831555271
  14. 3 points
    That is the problem. The state of modern vehicle styling is horrid.
  15. 3 points
    Despite having my own I'm still getting shed envy here... maybe I need more sheds?
  16. 3 points
    Ah that's what the soft top ewok is for drive in fill to the brim with muddy water drive out and dump elsewhere. Easy ditch clearing...... Mike
  17. 3 points
    Naks, for all the faults of the old (real) Defenders, chassis stiffness was not one. Given how your past garage stuffed your rear diff and appeared to have bent an axle (if I understood other comments correctly you had a bent axle that you attributed to LR, but I doubt they sent it out like that), do you not think that any chassis sag or buckling your vehicle may have had in their care was not because of a design issue but because they dropped it off a lift, likely buckling that axle at the same time?
  18. 3 points
    This mornings endeavors taking shape regards Stephen
  19. 3 points
    I suspect that is rather unfair to the Td5, it passed all of the MoD durability tests and is based on the proven L-Series architecture. It has a few issues, but no more so than almost any other modern engine from other car makers IMO. In return you get a lot more power and torque, lot more tuning ability and a much more refined engine. There are also plenty in daily service still and lots of high mileage ones.
  20. 3 points
    Replaced rear oil seal and timing cover / water pump gaskets, refilled with fresh oil and filter as well so should have it back in and running tomorrow
  21. 3 points
    haha im not that nuts! have being considering getting it mapped though. my new issue was similar to my old issue. i miscalculated when i did the beavertail and ended up cutting too much out, so the angle (of about 5*!) is still too much for the near zero groundclearence my racecar has. this wasn't particularly surprising, and it was always on the cars that this could happen. i got the tape measure out and discovered all my work making the folding sections of the ramp where pointless. there is near zero rampover angle without them, so they have been retired. they have instead been repurposed and now look like this to be honest i always expected to have to do this. the professionals always have the ramp heading uphill to just behind the cab. whilst this was a option, it would have meant 20x the work, and this works fine. these are a 30second removal deal, so when (if) theyre in the way they can easily be pulled out. NOW its finished!
  22. 3 points
    I found a problem with the tdi offroad and what was much better with the v8 was the acceleration. By this I don't mean the 0-60 I mean you come to the bottom of a steep hill going over rough terrain at a walking pace and you want to get a bit of speed to the wheels to get up the hill. The v8, despite having poor bhp per cc and litre of fuel, gave you power across the whole rev range and you could get a bit of momentum quite quickly by being in a longish gear. The TDi had to be on the turbo to get that push and the available rev range between turbo coming in and running out of revs was quite narrow, you couldn't change gear on the hill and would often fail due to either lack of wheel speed due to too low gear or losing power due to revs dropping off the bottom of the turbo due to too high gear. I find this is the same with modern downsized engines. The 2 litre may well have 200bhp on paper but the power band is so narrow it's lost its driveability. That's why they are going for the 10 gear quick shift automatics, to try to give it enough ratios to use the narrow power band when accelerating and keep the revs as low as possible for economy when driving. Due to this I don't find you can take any notice of quoted max power in car adverts, you have to drive the thing to see how well it's setup.
  23. 3 points
    Quite a while back on one of my mog axle posts somebody said the above title so here goes Started a project this weekend that I have been considering for a while elements of this are often carried by landrovers in the country ie game keepers but ultimately putting fabrication skills to the test Mods if you are not happy please remove and accept my apologies for posting So the project is to make a standard shotgun lamp Some of the bits cut pieces shaped shaping finished welding up and blending All put together and where I'm at now Going to fab a cartridge belt as part of the stand then buy a suitable lamp shade to finish hope to be complete by the end of next weekend Regards Stephen
  24. 3 points
    I feel it's one of my special skills, however I think this is cause by the vast amount of waiting we are doing in anticipation of the new defender. It's like an automotive brexit
  25. 3 points
    Stop running it on vegetable oil then it won't feel any different running on diesel 😆 Mo
  26. 3 points
    I've attached all that I have for 1991 to 1994 Defenders. Defender 1991 Wiring diagram.pdf
  27. 3 points
    I think you younger types will find that there's nothing wrong with a soft knob in an off road vehicle or maybe the home environment as larger harder knobs often lead to unfortunate and unforeseen accidents
  28. 3 points
  29. 3 points
    Totally agree, i was just looking at the body actually will makes some efforts to remove the layers of bronze green, then she'll get rubbed down and painted olive or olive and black there's a few dents here and there I'll be straightening out to square her up a bit but thats about it, the rear tub inside will need the most work. In other news i just got her running. New plugs leads and distributor and she fired up on the first turn, well chuffed, and coincidently I'm no longer a series truck driver virgin, took it for a spin to check the transmission, all good except stopping is interesting with only one wheel... great fun Now I get why peoples like series trucks 😁
  30. 3 points
    While accepting that the most likely cause of 'slow to respond' is a worn out compressor (I agree they can be overhauled. Compared to most jobs you do on a Land Rover it's a bit fiddly, take a patience pill before you start). BUT, unless you do something about the suspension airbags the compressor will still struggle to respond, and will quickly wear out again. Look closely at the inflated airbags, both at standard height and at full height. You are looking for 'surface crazing', especially where they roll over. If you see it, even though you cannot detect any leaks through the crazed area, then start (more) reading, this time on replacing the suspension airbags. For obvious reasons, second hand units from a breaker are false economy. In my view, it's likely that the suspension problems have come to light because you have used the off-road settings. I suspect many users don't use the control. As for Scotland, if you can get one Schrader valve in the supply to the reservoir tank, then that is your 'get out of jail' card, although it will help to carry a decent tyre inflater pump as well. BTW, if you are using 'suspension on off-road setting' to enable access for working on the car, please do put a couple of chassis stands under the chassis rails before you start work. We don't want the next post from your account to be from your wife asking how can she raise the vehicle to extract your body!! Good Luck, and enjoy.
  31. 3 points
    Just thinking about the explosion, and if you are far enough away in Didcot? Please change it, carefully, as I'm visiting Oxfordshire next weekend. G.
  32. 2 points
    Credit to Dicky or Jon Yorkshire Dales
  33. 2 points
    It may not be that stupid. It's VERY clear that LR have changed the target market for the Defender and, if you think about it, that market is (to a large extent) people who used to buy Discoverys before the bland new one put them off. It's apparently a far bigger market than the former Defender one for an expensive working truck, so the approach should actually do the company more good than harm. That's because it will bring back a proportion of buyers who moved elsewhere, more than taking away buyers from Disco 5. I'd go further and say that the new Defender is really without peer in the modern market, for those well-heeled types who want a modern, roomy, gadget-laden vehicle which makes a statement of being rugged and go-anywhere and which genuinely won't falter at the first few hurdles. Unless you can afford a G wagon. If the 85 E.C.U.s don't fail too often and the air suspension doesn't continually misbehave, those people will probably love their Defenders and sales will be good. (Just to be clear, I am a loooooooong way from that target market and wouldn't swap my 1987 110 for a new Defender without a massive bribe. That doesn't mean I don't understand why they have done what they have done, even if I don't like it.) I'll bet they are flat out trying to re-design the D(isaster) 5 right now...
  34. 2 points
    Finish some Land Rover projects > sell them. Don't ever buy another Land Rover, live happily ever after
  35. 2 points
    Large offset wheels or spacers ? No way is ANY fabbed arm going to be anywhere near as strong as the forged original. IMO the majority of "upgrades" are like the Kings new clothes ………...
  36. 2 points
    Hi guys, I’m new here but not to Landy’s, not sure how active this forum is but thought I’d give it a go, June 2020 (yes, after Brexit, possibly) I will be driving to Romania and back for my holidays. Going via France, Italy, Croatia, Slovenia because I’ve done the direct route back in 2010. The reason for my post is that I am asking for knowledge of small campsites en-route and was hoping that people local to these areas may be able to help. Most stops will be for only one night. Many thanks in advance
  37. 2 points
    That's quite impressive if it seals. And probably won't grow mould either.
  38. 2 points
    Turned out that the nozzles were just a bit bunged up, a good rummage around with the point of a needle and sorting out the alignment of them seems to have restored a reasonable amount of washiness 💧
  39. 2 points
    Quick update. The timing has been done, new cam pulley and all. The noise has gone. Hopefully that will be that for another decade or so.
  40. 2 points
    Problem solved. A wire that had been repaired from the Main fuse box to Fuse 3 (Fuel shut-off) was not repaired properly resulting in a large voltage drop across the connection. Repaired the wiring and she fires up like a champ every time now. Always good to get one in the win column. Cheers!
  41. 2 points
    I’d pull the diff to check all the bearings. People are scared of the Salisbury, but it’s easier to do this job than on a Rover in most respects - it just takes a bit of physical effort. Drain it, remove the prop and mark the pinion nut and pinion before undoing the nut. Having someone stand on the brake pedal may help, but the best way to stop the pinion rotating is to fit two old bolts through the flange and use a sturdy bar across them to the ground. Then pull the half shafts.p and diff bearing caps (mark them for side and orientation first). Ideally, you’d use a spreader tool to make diff removal easier, but you can get by without it - you just need two bars to pry the diff back evenly and square. Be careful - it’s heavy and may jump as it clears the last of the binding in the bearings. Good to have something soft under the axle for it to fall on, just in case, and I don’t mean your face or chest! Once it’s out, you can check the bearings. You’ll be able to check the rear pinion bearing (nearest the gear), but to check the smaller front bearing, you’ll need to remove the pinion seal. As long as you replace the bearings with decent quality new ones of the same bearing number, then you don’t need to worry about setting things up when you reassemble it. Just reuse the original shims exactly as they were and it’ll be perfect. They won’t drop out and get mixed up - the pinion shims are trapped between the rear bearing outer race and diff housing, while the centre’s shims are between the centre and its inner races on each side. You'll need a bearing puller to remove the inner races from the centre and rear of the pinion. You may find after all of that the bearings are ok, but at least you’ll know. In that case, the only part you’ll need is a new pinion seal (and pan gasket, unless you prefer RTV sealant). It will also give you the chance to check the ring and pinion gears themselves to chips or odd wear patterns. Checking the planet and side gears is a bit more involved, but probably easy enough. The other plausible source is the shaft splines, but I assume you’ve already checked them.
  42. 2 points
    Apart from doing the rear wiper mod covered in another thread, I also sorted out the wiring for the intermittent front wipers. This information is all already in the tech archive but it's a bit spread out and so I've created this diagram which will hopefully allow anyone with an ounce of electrical knowledge to put the wiring together quickly and easily. This diagram shows the wiring which can be used to replace the intermittent wiper wiring loom, PRC8295. The original Land Rover part number for the delay relay is AMR2341 which gives a fixed delay of about 5 seconds between wipes and 4 wipes when the wash button is pressed. A Volkswagen 99 relay is a direct drop-in replacement for the AMR2341 and this gives a fully programmable delay between 2 and 40 secs as well as the wash wipe facility. Here is it as a PDF file: Intermittent front wiper.pdf
  43. 2 points
    Someone is rebuilding a late 2a gearbox for me - I’ve a few pictures: ‘Stored under the bench condition’ Late suffix with the larger layshaft - which can’t hurt with the tdi in it. Stripped to see what’s what... To replace: Primary Pinion, 1st gear pair, reverse shaft, 3rd gear pair, intermediate shaft for transfer box .... and on closer inspection, 2nd gear pair 😂 I love a bit of NOS goodness Cases cleaned Just waiting painted covers and shift mechanism
  44. 2 points
    Lord knows, it was (cough) years ago, it was the PS10 I think, and now you say it it may well be the Iveco engine - my brain obviously filed it under "engine from van" .
  45. 2 points
    Sort of... There's plenty of "Ultra 4 vs Rock Bouncer videos" but they're all time-based competitions. I know the Ultra4 guys don't air down and run more "all-terrain" biased tyres due to the mixed racing they do and instead prefer to throw power and speed at the problem. What I'd be more curious is seeing them on, I suppose, would be more along the lines of what we might see in the UK - a mix of bogs, (thinking Highlands ), mud, rocks, grass etc. but rather than throw power into the equation follow the Green Lane Code and tread lightly so to speak. I.e. eliminate the huge (and admittedly fun) HP and speed figures and try and complete a course with minimal wheel spin and damage underneath. That should tell us a little more about the actual capabilities of the vehicle, momentum and speed can overcome a lot of shortcomings. I mean the Norwegian Army wanted to learn to fly and they didn't have any planes - so momentum and speed helped out here
  46. 2 points
    I have already bought some paint to tidy it up
  47. 2 points
    Totally agree , I’m completely over it and don’t even bother looking at any pictures of it or reading any of the Land Rover sponsored blurb in the papers and online , I only look in this thread to read the amusing rants for and against 🤣
  48. 2 points
    I wouldn't just say the competitions are a measure of strength. The platform has been released since 2013 under Range Rover. How many failures have you ever seen of that particular shaft?
  49. 2 points
    If only! There’s all sorts in the workshop, but she is liquified natural gas carrier currently off Argentina. Got it going with some high flash point solvent spray I had in the shed, stripped it down, literally sprayed it everywhere and then blew it with the air. Works fine now.
  50. 2 points
    So an acquaintance (ironically who I sold my TDV8 to) passed away recently and a mutual friend has asked if I'm interested in buying his 6x6. I thought it was a diy build but turns out it's one of the elusive Sandringham 6x6s albeit not completely original. Currently it's got a 2.8 Nissan straight 6 diesel in it and an exhaust stack behind the cab which apparently sounds incredible (will hopefully be seeing it tomorrow). The chassis is very solid and had an mot last year but oil pressure issues and surplus of vehicles meant it wasn't back on the road. Now it has a strange appeal to me and being a flatbed with pickup and 2 tonne payload makes it quite tempting for my new place in the country. I also have sat at the new place an externally rough P38 with a good 4.6 in it and after the crank escapades a spare (albeit missing cranks) 1.5x 300Tdis and a friend with whom I may experiment with converting one to a 2.8TGV spec. Question is what do people think it's worth? I have my ideas but curious what others think. There is also a crane, pto compressor and generator on the cars so could turn it into quite a handy little tool. And because pics are obligatory


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