Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/20/2018 in Posts

  1. 11 points
    Anoraks on standby! As some of you will know, you can decode some Land Rover fastener part numbers into their actual threads & dimensions, like this: BT606106 = Bolt, 3/8 UNF x 1 1/4" Anyway, whilst perusing the S3 Parts book for a few bits and bobs I ended up down quite a rabbit hole and ended up making this: Land Rover / BL fastener part number decoder-o-tron It should get the basics right but I found a lot of previously un-mentioned variations in the parts book so if anyone has their anorak on and feels like filling in the blanks that would be super awesome. Areas of doubt & uncertainty: AB, AC, AD, AE, AR = Drive Screws (self tappers) but not sure on the differences AB,AC,AD imperial (AB6...) are by Screw No. (EG AB606... equals screw with imperial No.6 thread) but no idea of other thread-forms? AJ = Spire nut, not clear on details AK = Captive/spring nut, not clear on details AM = Bolt, "Special", no idea BD = Probably Blanking Plug but no idea on sizing? FX = Nut of some special sort (flanged or jam)? GG = Mudguard screw, only seen one part number so no idea on what's different about this MR = Pop rivet but no idea on size or type NC, ND = Castle nut but unclear on details NK = Captive nut / lokut / rivnut...??? NH, NM, NR = Nut, hex, not clear on detail NN, PN = Rivnut, type/details unclear NY, NZ = Nylock nit, not clear on difference PA, PC, PS = Pins, sizing not clear (very guesswork) RA, RF, RT, RU = Rivets, details unclear SA, SE, SH = Screw, differences unclear SF = Screw, Flanged, different to FS? TD, TE = Studs, very vague on details WA, WB, WC, WD, WP = Washers, what's the difference? WE, WF = Shakeproof washers, details / sizing unclear WK = Cup Washer, very vague on details WL, WM, WS = Spring washers, what's the difference?
  2. 9 points
    I have to say it amuses me when the foreigners on here apologise for their English. We as a nation are ignorant when it comes to languages but I guess that comes from being one of the more commonly used. I say you guys rock for bothering to use a forum in a non native tongue and I have to remind myself that I'm the one that is deficient in this area. Long may you continue to grace us with your presence and input. Thank you Mike
  3. 8 points
    Well, that wasn't exactly the plan, but it's what happened ๐Ÿคฆโ€โ™‚๏ธ Popped over to the UK for New Year's to have a play at Bunny Lane, and combine it with the classic car show at Brooklands. Arrived at Bunny Lane around lunch after missing our ferry by 5 minutes because we were sat at border control in Calais for an hour with nobody bothering to work Bit miffed to have gotten up at 3 in the morning to then be waiting an hour for the next one... Unhooked the trailer with the Lotus on it, swapped the tyres and set off. Car seemed to work well, put on a bit of a show of V8 loudness and flying mud in places, all good. Then came across a little hill with a big rock in it. We were thinking maybe I'd hit the diff, no biggie, just do it slowly and see what happens. First try stopped just shy of getting up it, but no diff hitting, so all good. Backed up, gave it a bit more throttle (but not much), went up the hill, and... landed on the belly. Seemed to make a bit more noise that usual. Backed up, saw oil, instantly stopped the engine and got out to have a look. This happened: Must've hooked the handbrake drum on the rock... Drove back to the parking lot with loud crunchy noises, and breaking our record of breakage, now at half an hour on the site! Obviously a bit of an issue, as that was the tow car... so got the Lotus off the trailer, put the RR on, and started unbolting as much as possible. By the time the site closed, we had it all loose, but left a few bolts in the crossmember and transfer box so it wouldn't fall out when being towed. @miketomcat offered to tow it to his home behind the Ibex, which we gladly took him up on. But we still had to source a replacement box, because this wasn't going to be fixed with JB weld... Mike and @FridgeFreezer started calling around, when Piers showed up (not sure if he has an account on here?) and mentioned "oh, I have a P38 in a shed somewhere". It quickly became apparent that would be the only option, as everyone that could have one was closed until after New Year's, and the nearest one on eBay was in Bath... Fridge drove up to Piers' shed, which turned out to be many sheds filled to the brim with all kinds of treasure. And in the back of one, looking like it must've been there for 50 years (time travelling P38?), was a manual diesel P38 that had been put in there with a seized engine. Crawled under it, screamed at the amount of spiders, but decided it was our only option. Then realised it probably wouldn't fit because it's a manual, and mine's an auto, but some research showed that only the input gear should be different, and can be swapped fairly easily. Right then, undo many rusty bolts, preferably while minimally upsetting the spiders. Did I mention I really, really don't like spiders? Especially in cramped spaces. Anyway, after about 4 hours, we had it pried off the rusted output shaft and carried into Fridge's car. Made it to the hotel a little past midnight, and dropped like a brick. Including the time difference, that was a 22 hour day. Next day, off to Mike's place, to get the broken one out. That went fairly alright, apart from some exhaust studs at the downpipe breaking off, but we got those drilled and tapped. Inspecting it off the car, turns out it was cracked almost all the way around. The bit between @Escape's fingers is the only bit still attached: Still had the issue of the differing input gear on the other case though. But splitting the broken one open revealed that it should be fairly easy to just swap the output side from the new case onto the input side from the old case, without having to press the input gear out. That went smoothly except for one slight niggle that won't be named Had it all back together around 5, in time for New Year's celebrations, and made it to Brooklands the next day with the Lotus to put it among a bunch of very, very special cars there. And we made it home! Without too many strange crunchy noises. I'm fairly sure if I ever need to be declared clinically insane, this thread should count as plenty proof Thanks again to everyone involved for all the help! The only reason we can risk to go to the UK to do daft stuff like this is because of awesome friends that go above and beyond to help us out if (when) we break stuff.
  4. 8 points
    Just like to wish forum members near and far a very happy Christmas, have only been a member for a short while, although linked by an affinity for Landrovers in their many guises I find the assistance and advice given to what is essentially a faceless stranger for most members, exceptional .I personally should have joined years ago thank you.Whatever your projects or repairs are in 2019 I wish you success and fun in doing them Stephen
  5. 8 points
    Without pictures it didn't happen so...... Mike
  6. 7 points
    I think Britpart sell head gaskets in packs of ten.
  7. 6 points
    A 130 hi cap tub and defender cab fit perfectly on a 100โ€ discovery chassis, just needs a frame to pick up on the body mounts to avoid any cutting of the chassis at all. I think I would have attempted to build it on a discovery 2 chassis if I didnโ€™t already have the discovery 1.
  8. 6 points
    I'd bet on the Lego model being pretty accurate! They have produced models based on three of the Movies I've worked on (Star Wars VIII, Fantastic Beasts 2 & Spiderman). In each case, the model has been based on actual drawings. In the case of Fantastic Beasts, from Special Effects Drawings I suspect. You see the circle on the top of the roof? There's one on the underside of the chassis too. They didn't appear in the film - because they were the mountings to attach it to a slew-ring on a motion Platform. (I designed the motion platform). That says to me that Lego have good access to drawings - and that the Lego model is likely to be pretty close! That being the case - I quite like it! Si P.S. Almost every rig I've designed has had a Land Rover part in it - guess it's what I know best!
  9. 6 points
    After a long journey by car & boat, supported through people I have yet to meet, the roof hatch has arrived !!! Collected yesterday, and...... what a relief - it actually fits inside the roll cage !! ๐Ÿ˜‚ Now it is time to think about the lifting mechaniscm.. Again, thanks you all !!!!
  10. 6 points
    Youโ€™re doing a fabulous job๐Ÿ’– Only thing I canโ€™t understand is, with you cracking on at such a pace with this, why wasnโ€™t your 90 finished 18 months ago ๐Ÿ˜ฎ ๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป
  11. 6 points
    John, that's the most sensible post I've read on this topic so far! As some will remember, I've built both Air and Independent suspension on different vehicles. Rather too many people told me I clearly didn't understand the physics (๐Ÿ˜‰) if I thought independent would be any good. I wanted to try it BECAUSE so many people dismissed it, all quoting the same 'diff being low when the suspension is compressed' reason. You would be forgiven for thinking that because every thread on every forum is full of people repeating it. I found a few threads where people had actually tried it (on Pirate) and said it worked pretty well. They were universally flamed for 'not understanding the physics'. I thought I'd see for myself, rather than just repeat the same old mantra. It wasn't perfect - but it changed my perception. The occasions where the low centre were an issue were surprisingly rare. Where it shone was on bumpy hill climbs where your wheels bouncing lose you more traction than lockers could gain. The IS just managed to keep all the wheels on the ground more of the time. Even without lockers (it didn't have any) it would out-perform beams. You could approach hill climbs faster as it would soak up the inevitable pot hole at the bottom of the climb without bouncing on to it's roof. Some obstacles required a different approach, often using the better dynamic stability to your advantage. Both types have advantages & disadvantages - but I believe IS gives you more overall, even if it does underperform beam axles in a few specific situations. I hope the bodyshell is just a mule - as that's the bit that looks disappointing to me. I'd hoped for something like the new Jimny, something that looks really cool & distinctive. What we've seen so far, just looks like another RR clone. If the body is decent, I do plan to buy one. More-so now I've seen it has IS and Air!
  12. 6 points
    All this grumbling and no-one's appreciating the fact that LR are clearly testing the thing off-road. If they didn't care, as many here are claiming, they wouldn't be spending millions of pounds in R&D dragging it over rocks in Moab etc. (How many other manufacturers bother? Do we believe a BMW X5 prototype has ever been rock-crawling?) For all the grumbling, LR take off-road ability more seriously than most others - the fact they even do it with the likes of the Evoque deserves a bit of credit, especially if you hold it up against its competition. Jamie's comments about the exhaust hanging down miss the point too - that's the same idea as the freelander and it works well - banging the exhaust makes a terrible noise but is ultimately harmless and lets you know you've run out of clearance. Likewise the front ARB was the lowest point at the front and is a robust but ultimately non-critical part that you could hang the car on (much like a Defender gearbox crossmember) without causing damage, and the CLONK lets you know you need to back up. Compared to the low-hanging fruit of major drivetrain components you see protruding under other SUV's it's very elegant design. I'd rather replace a ยฃ50 back-box than poke a rock through the rear diff. I don't see a problem basing it on the D5 - they based the Defender on the Range Rover platform after all - same thing, different century! Air suspension may be novel on a utility 4x4 but then coil springs and disc brakes were novel on a 4x4 in 1983 - and are still novel on plenty of modern 4x4's, and no-one's bitching about the Defender being too fancy compared to proper leaf springs and drum brakes
  13. 6 points
    The way things are going a complete spare p38 stored in the south of England might be a good idea. Mike
  14. 6 points
    Just to help a liitle i have marked ALL the water ingress points in BLACK for you and anyone else who is interested!?! There, i think that about covers it!?!
  15. 6 points
    And finally.................................... I have a Q registration number. V5 to follow in about 2 weeks. Mike
  16. 5 points
  17. 5 points
    Steady on Ross, it's looking like you might finish a distraction project
  18. 5 points
    Only a couple of photos - but first laning trip for a family picnic today. This section of the lane has just been repaired ๐Ÿ˜Š ยฃ8k worth of stone has transformed it from a giant clay pit, that I had trouble winching the 90 out of, into (what feels like) a small car park half way along the lane. Not just us enjoying the repairs: nice river to ford at the bottom: and a spot to park on the other side for lunch
  19. 5 points
  20. 5 points
    I am about as enthralled by this as I am the Brexit debacle over in Westminster - both have gone on far too long and I just wish they would get on with it!
  21. 5 points
    About time I picked this up again. Life got in the way, as it does. To recap: Can't run a mechanical capstan on my 109 as the crank pulley of the V8 is way out of line with t'hole in t'front. The options are electric or hydraulic - I've chosen the latter. Why do I want a capstan? Because I can. Always loved the look on a series. Slight change of direction as I managed to pick up a cheap capstan drum from some sort of boat. It's the right size and will look the part with a cap made to suit: The Bonfiglioli 30:1 gearbox. Tis beefy: The gearbox will be mounted under the mounting plate which will carry an intermediate bearing, then the drum sits on top. The hydraulic motor. Another Ebay buy; an expensive (when new) old stock gerotor bargain. Better inside that it looks on the outside! Low speed, many torques. Perfect: I did some number crunching based on commonly accepted figures for aircon power consumption and came to the conclusion that an aircon electro-magnetic clutch should be man enough in my application. Seems insane, but it's surprising the amount of power an aircon compressor soaks up. I've no idea why I didn't take any pictures while doing that bit, but the front end of a Denso Disco V8 pump is grafted onto a 20cc/rev gear pump: It seems happy there and fits in the hole in the vehicle: It wants to slit slightly back from the main serp pulley, and I couldn't figure out a way to get some decent belt wrap even if I could get it further forwards. The solution is a separate short pulley, so I had to graft two together using a rotary table, a plasma cutter and some creative thinking: Sorry I didn't video it, I didn't have enough free hands. @dangerous doug has been kind enough to help me with a replacement pulley for my "spare" V8 to replace the one I cut up. Thanks Doug! I have yet to mount it all up properly, but it fits really nicely with a short 7PK850 belt. I'm working on a stiffener bracket to steady the rear of the pump too. Pics to come of both. The next challenge is the motor coupling. Trying to buy pre-made involute couplings is damn near impossible or very expensive. This seems to be a DIN5480 something with 14 teeth. I spent aaaaaages trying to find something I could buy cheaply and adapt. Eventually I resigned myself to having to cut my own. I don't have a shaper, mill, or a dividing head. Just an old Myford ML10 lathe. The tale is told on YoutTube! Sorry about the dreadful camera work. Having successfully cut the splines on my ghetto shaper/dividing setup, I machined some bits to bring it all together: And further pushed my little lathe to cut various keyways: Which, it has to be said, came out really well. I think I watch too many Keith Fenner videos.... I decided to test the whole setup. The lathe seemed to perfect power source: Much still to do machining up the gearbox to motor mount, cutting and creating the mount plate and suchlike. More as it progresses. I'm intending to have the drum removable so I don't have to drive around with a chuffing great bit of cast iron on the front of the vehicle all the time. All told, I'm having huge fun with this project, which is really the point, right?
  22. 5 points
    Been ages since I've used a series other than road testing customer cars, but as I had to break the 110 I keep in Africa and as Defender prices have gone through the roof there, I thought I'd try my hand at a spot of retro overlanding and picked up a nice S2a 109 safari station wagon as a temporary stopgap - sight unseen, and had it delivered to a mates. Apart from a couple of offensive additions (laminate floorboard dash, quickly ripped out & brown velvet Toyota cressida front seats) I hit lucky and it's remarkably original with barely a dent and almost no rust. New rad, water pump, engine tune up and an oil change later and ran it up to Mozambique waiting for the first round of spanner time.... which never came! Absolutely love the 2.6 six cylinder engine - torque not far off a tdi, silky smooth and got over 22mpg overall - not bad for a 50s engine and 80p/litre for petrol it doesn't matter too much. Compared to the old 2.25 petrol or diesel it was a pleasure to drive - no slowing down on hills! Great through soft sand as well, at one point I helped tow a speedboat through very deep coastal sand tracks, passing a brand new Range Rover that was bogged to the floorpan. Well after making it to Moz without a breakdown we chanced a trip through Kruger (the wuffly engine was great for game viewing, rattly tdis & td5s scare the animals off) and Swaziland - whole trip I never had to fix anything, don't think I ever had that with a defender ๐Ÿ˜ but did miss a bit of tool time. Great journey and great to reconnect with some of those early landy features.
  23. 5 points
    Well itโ€™s taken me a while but finally started putting it back together. No. 4 had a cracking bend in it so Iโ€™ve taken the chance to change them all as well as pretty much everything I can well I have access to it. Taking ages, but learning allot and enjoying the process. Thanks for all the help.
  24. 5 points
    No wonder they can't find you, someone's crossed the address out!
  25. 5 points
    Earnt it's keep today. Moved a friend's 25 foot ranger about 3.5ton all up. Made it work up some of the hills and the gearing is definitely a little tall. But she did admirably, the temp guage stayed put in the middle and the oil pressure light didn't even flicker. Mike
  26. 4 points
    Hi, Slightly different post from normal but I wanted to give Andy & his Landy a shout and hopefully spread his Mental Health & well-being message that it really is ok to talk no matter what it's about, but also, as a fellow Landy owner on a long distance trip with an elderly landy, offer some support if he requires it (which he has already). "Andyโ€™s Landie is a vehicle for talking about mental health, strength and fitness, specifically for men. Andy bought his Series III 1973 Land Rover to overcome his flashback to a patient, trapped in a Land Rover after an IED attack, in Afghanistan. Andy is travelling around 999 bases and meeting lots of amazing people on his tour, talking about his own experiences and finding out about theirs. This is in support of the UK Search & Rescue Wellbeing & Resilience Framework, which is being pioneered by Mountain Rescue in Scotland. Andy is picking up passengers along his route and making a short film about their converstaions around Mental Health and Wellbeing. #itsoktotalk #chinwag" I met Andy as a member of Tweed Valley Mountain Rescue and also helped organise a convoy over the border up to Scotland as a member of Lothian 4x4 Response & our collegues in 4x4 North East. Andy was totally blown away by this. Having a chat is not just for those on the front line, everyone needs downtime and sometimes a chat is all it takes, whether it's with a friend, partner or a total stranger. It's really important to talk, which often, sadly comes too late. If you would like to meet up with Andy, grab a cuppa and have a chat then give him a shout at chinwag@andyelwood.com. Speak to a friend, your partner, a total stranger, or me (a stranger). I'm happy to chat, thankfully I chatted with someone and it's really helped. It's ok to be not ok.
  27. 4 points
    Just an update. Ball joint had loads of play in it that was only really obvious once removed. The bushes on the A frame, although potentially 30 years old were really ok, but I changed them anyway. Amazing how easy this all was with a ramp and the right tools. All done in about an hour and the car is driving more normally now! D3 front lower arms to do next....
  28. 4 points
    Have to rename him onebigshed!
  29. 4 points
    Life got in the way again, now I can add to this saga...... The week while I was arguing with AutoDoc for replacement parts I ported the head and manifolds. What surprised me was the diameter difference between the gasket and the ports. Plus that they were not exactly lined up with each other. With a black marker I had a clear indication of where to begin removing material, a time consuming job but at the end of the day all the ports were inline with the gasket. Eventually AutoDoc sent out the replacement parts which did get into Sweden rather fast from Germany BUT flipping PostNord that's another can of worms. The package was in a terminal 80km from the house where it sat for 5 days!!! No number of calling or emailing helped in persuading those buggers in sending my parcel with the auto parts. When they did arrive, within minutes the final valve seal was installed and the head was on it's way out to the motor. ๐Ÿ˜ƒ When it came to the head bolts, it was time consuming and a bit difficult to keep track of the bolts so I organized and then numbered the heads of the bolts for easy of reassembly. ๐Ÿ˜‰ With the head on I followed the instructions given above about torquing the head bolts. I was surprised how loose they were after the first round of setting them at 40Nm but after 2 times I was ready to move on to setting the angle degree's. .....So I bought a angle dial tool that I thought I could save a penny on, which worked perfectly on the first 10 bolts but when I got to #11, the damn dial seized itself to the center section never to work properly again!! ๐Ÿคฌ Man I introduced that POS to the bottom of the garbage can at a very high velocity! ๐Ÿ˜‚ Thankfully my son who lives in the big city was driving by the house that day so he bought me a proper tool that I should have bought int first place. So typical of Sweden, if your working on your car outside in the driveway, it's going to rain 50% of the time your working on it. Plus the fact that I work nights, I only managed to get a few hours a day but after 3 days it was complete and running. OK, so what did I do to the engine, replaced the head gasket, replaced the valve seals, planned the head, ported the head and manifolds, ultra wave washed the injectors, replaced the injector copper washers, replaced the glow plugs while I was at it, installed valve caps that the engine didn't have for some unknown reason and turned the injector pump down approx an 8th of a turn. Oh, also washed out the entire induction system of any left over engine oil. The final result is the engine is a totally different animal. My engine must have been on the down slope for some time cause it 1) sounds totally different, 2) it's more responsive, 3) feels much more willing to get into it and the turbo whistle is now more pronounced. It even starts easier. In 3rd and 4th, I can get into the go pedal and the hesitation is gone, the front just picks up then she's gone, even with the RTT and awning on the landy. Jupp as you may have guessed by now, I'm very happy. ๐Ÿ˜€
  30. 4 points
    Yesterday I thought I'd get in quick and modify my 110 to the new look before anyone else. So I've taped a printout of my landy to the centre of the dash. So far it's working pretty well and gives a visual representation of the vehicle dynamics. If I'm driving on a rough road it shakes up and down. At night it went dark, and this morning it was nice and damp. It even showed the hvac was working correctly by fluttering slightly when I put the heater on full. Development cost 5p, will still be working in 10 years ๐Ÿ™‚
  31. 4 points
    Look, you're in the wrong place to get someone to talk you down off the ledge. You've got wings. Fly. Take the money with you and soar with the eagles. and more pics once you have bought them pls ๐Ÿ˜‰
  32. 4 points
    I think we all agree that jlr just aren't interested in utility. And we all regret that.
  33. 4 points
    Don't bring material specs & knowledge into this rose tinted bun fight ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚
  34. 4 points
    Well, there is progress to report, not much physically to show, but a lot of hours have gone into it. The main focus has been on the Chassis; It is structurally sound, however, the front spring hangers were twisted, so a bit of jigerry pokery with my neighbours portapower was needed: Also, there is a strip spot welded to the bottom of the chassis rail, and this formed some rust sandwich of about 5mm think in places: I removed the strip, by drilling off all the spotwelds. This also meant all the spring hangers had to be removed. This means drilling off 2 rivets and grind through 2 welds. After all this, I replaced the rear crossmember and front bumper. In jeep world, replacing a cross member means drilling of the rivets, and bolt on a new one, which costs ยฃ50. All good, Daan
  35. 4 points
    Update - and good news - you guys were right it was an airlock in the pump Now runs sweetly and no leaks - massive thank you to all those that have helped - greatly appreciated tim
  36. 4 points
    If you have a USAF contact you might negotiate a replacement engine arriving in the boot of a transport plane with somewhat discounted postage...
  37. 4 points
    Iโ€™m loving using this ..
  38. 4 points
    So winter viruses have gone ! And at the start of the week I made a list of what I thought was left to do.... What I missed was the washer bottle and door buffers.... The LED inserts have gone in and work brilliantly - I tried to take a picture with them lit up, but it didnโ€™t work... hereโ€™s the insides though. The top half flashes red for indicators, the bottom half does the rear lights, both increase brightness for brake lights (if Iโ€™ve remembered it right) and a downward facing set light the number plate and rear badge. The heater is going to be tight under the passenger seat - but fits and makes the pipe work for it pretty simple. The seats are in ๐Ÿ˜Š The heated seat switches will go on the outside corner of the seat box, they should be easy to operate and small enough that they wonโ€™t be getting bashed and switched by accident. Iโ€™d forgotten that my 80โ€ came without the standard tank guard. So a galv one of those came an Sunday was painted and fitted ... The oil blanking plate Iโ€™d fitted on the filter housing was leaking, so thatโ€™s been fixed - and the tappers have been done with new collets fitted. The wipers and indicator switch are fitted and wired up. And if anyone remembers, weโ€™d altered the gearbox tunnel shape on the bulkhead to make a bit more space for the engine and starter motor. Here the front face has been cut and lifted to retain the original fold. And so this is sort of how we are looking.... more to follow shortly hopefully. getting there !
  39. 4 points
    Thought this was an interesting article with some great photos, and a good take on why we love our LR's despite their flaws... https://jalopnik.com/land-rover-and-mercedes-the-king-and-queen-of-the-saha-1831555271
  40. 4 points
    Well I got it out for the first time this year and me saying that it was at the age that needed 'nursing' is clearly unfounded. The heat and soap worked straight away, even the pressure gauge was showing good pressure...
  41. 4 points
  42. 4 points
    Some time ago as something of an extravagant eBay impulse purchase I bought a small Proxxon MF70 with CNC conversion as the "missing link" in my tool collection, figuring with a mill & a lathe you can make anything. Life got in the way but I've finally dug it out and set it up - as you can see it's small enough to have on your desk which is part of the attraction for learning: I downloaded LinuxCNC and am currently running it inside a virtual machine (which is a terrible idea and should not be attempted by anyone) on my indoor PC just to get the hang of it, lo and behold I actually got it to do a thing: I'm not about to actually mill stuff in the house as it will throw carp everywhere, but I can at least work out the toolchain before moving to a dedicated PC and moving it all to the shed where mess can be made. I'm hoping to get a bit of tinkering time over the festive period so will post updates.
  43. 4 points
    No good to me, he's using Alu-min-um, not the Aluminium that we weld over here ๐Ÿ˜
  44. 4 points
    Problem Solved! Had a test drive today and the brakes/servo work as they should again. and on top of that the turboboost has come back again aswell. here comes a short summery of the problems what i have checked, what turned out to be faulty and how it was fixed so that if anyone who has the same problem and cant be botherd Reading the whole tread or searchinng for specific info still can take help from this post. Problem: Car didnt have any brakes/brakes failed to slow down the car more then 10 kph untill the braking Power stopt increasing whereby the car kept "Rolling" to a stop. also car was kind of sluggish no boost from turbo. Checked (inkl my result): stuck calipers - not stuck but pistons where rusty tried first to grease up the pistons which didnt work later chanced the calipers but didnt do any differance. bleed brake at multipule occasions to makes sure there was no air in the system When stepping on the brakepedal, pedal was hard and didnt sink when starting the car. When taking hose of the servo unit no hissing/blowing sound that pressure wass released checked suction on the vacuumline no suction at all checked return valve in the servo should only blow air from the servoside - worked fine Compared suction between two vehicles Compared with two different Vacuumhoses Replaced: Changed Vaccumpump (second hand genuine) the car gor a Little more suction but not halv of what a propper had. Still no pressure in servo. Checked and changed vacuumline due to ruling out Connection to aftermarket Cruise Control. changed to a single line from pump to servo. pedal sinks/ pressure back in servo. During testdrive the brakes work and car is not sluggish anymore and turbo seem to have pressure back. Thanks to all helping/comming up with ideas and telling me what to check.
  45. 4 points
    Hi, Just found this in another forum. Could it be what's hiding in mule's clothing? http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/steam-powered-land-rover-photos-videos-70639?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=12-20-18#post123450 Mike
  46. 4 points
    apologies if this has been seen before, sent to me just now it made me smile.
  47. 4 points
    No it isn't. It's complicated, f**k ugly stuff for rich people
  48. 4 points
    Giving an autobox 9 speeds is like giving a woman 48 pairs of shoes. Too much time thinking about choices, not enough time moving forward
  49. 4 points
    DOHC diesels have been around for years - nothing special about them. Require minimal day to day servicing - cam belts etc are no harder or easier than any other belt OHC engine. Brakes - the same as any modern vehicle. No problem. Suspension arms are basically the same as any modern IFS vehicle - yes airbags are different but are relatively simple to replace though rarely needed. The air system itself is just a series of tubes and valve blocks all easy to service if needed - the main issue is the compressor which are rebuildable or easily replaced. Gearbox, tfr case and diffs are easily maintained but if there is a gearbox or tfr case problem then they are off to the experts. Sorry if you look at these vehicles in the cold light of day and without the bull - underneath they are not a lot different to other vehicles. Yes some things are best left to the technicians but most routine maintenance is possible at home. My car is now 11 years old, is used offroad quite a bit - it still has its original air compressor, all original suspension components, original engine, gearbox, diffs and tfr case, but it does have a new alternator early in the year - took about 1 hour 20 mins to do - outstanding work I will do shortly - complete rear brakes (the fronts done last month and took about 1 1/2 hours) and front lower suspension arms - I will probably get someone to put the suspension arms in as I have arthritic shoulders and probably could not undo the hi torque bolts without hurting myself but you only need to watch Youtube to find out how to do these and many other maintenance work on these cars. Once you start working on these cars the mystic soon disappears.
  50. 4 points
    Checked on my engine hour meter 2 days ago, now got over 307 hours running since the rebuild, all running fine


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy