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Everything posted by geoffbeaumont

  1. Hideous coloured lighting aside, the interior would be quite cool in the right vehicle. I'm not sure a series* landrover is where it belongs, though... * - is it a series landrover? What did this thing actually start out life as? If the date is corrected series 3 should be right, but it's so frankensteined I can't tell!
  2. Not much cheaper than a wood finish insulated steel building for a similar size (in fact, given the steel one included assembly, not cheaper at all). The excavation and slab is where a lot of the cost is, especially at the moment.
  3. Try telling that to all the farmers round here who tow stock trailers with D4s... I've only seen very shiny clean new Defenders so far. Actually like the look of the 90 better, though I didn't like it at all in photos. Still don't have any desire to own one, though.
  4. I'm not mad on the interior styling, but it looks functional and something I'd be quite happy to live with.
  5. Mine doesn't need to be particularly high (access is along the side of the house under a car port, so that limits the height of anything that can reach it anyway, and the vehicle door will be in the end). However, it's in full view of our patio doors so I won't get away with the industrial look. Not that the current garage is exactly a thing of beauty...
  6. Only two things are certain in life...
  7. I've looked at their site, but I think they only do fairly industrial looking finishes? This needs to fit in so either brick or wood finish.
  8. It seems pretty solid, if not terribly flat, but no idea if it's reinforced. Depth I can find out with some excavation - is currently level with the surrounding ground at best (yes, someone really did think it was a good idea to lay a concrete path up to the side of the garage - and I don't mean the base, either, it's a few inches up the wall...). Looks like it may already be two sections, but hard to tell until I clear some carp.
  9. Yeah, I'd like to get it all sorted, but I think it will probably have to wait. I can at least get the sheds sorted - should just be able to reuse the bases there, which will likely gain enough dry storage we can get rid of the storage units we're paying for at the moment.
  10. £50k is everything, including demolition of the old structure and slab, proper drainage, etc. Basically everything bar electrics. So a fair chunk of it is the same. Insulated steel building (just the actual building) would be about £17k. There's no nib so far as I can see - just a single row of bricks sitting on the slab with the wood frame on that.
  11. Need some advice from the wise ones on here - I need to replace my garage, which is delapidated and leaky. The plan was to demolish the current wooden structure, dig out the base excavate at the back and then build a new base and foundations 4x11m (the current one is 3.6x7m) with the drainage properly sorted and water supply, and then a single skin brick and tile building with insulation. However, that's a wee bit spendy at the moment... Builders have quoted £50k inc VAT 🤯 So, I need to find a more affordable solution. I could go for an insulated steel building, which as well as being cheaper in itself, even with a fake wood finish, would only need a slab, but a lot of the cost is in removing the old slab and laying a new one. Would extending the existing slab work? If probably have to stick at 3.6m wide, as I'm guessing adding a strip each side would be totally structurally unsound? Our is this just a really bad idea? With noting that we're on clay here.
  12. I'd rather carry a spare - even though the last time I needed one was over 20 years ago - but neither of our euro boxes have anywhere to put one.
  13. My Dad commented on them when he was out in Azerbaijan for a couple of years - loads of them about, not surprisingly. They were very capable off road and as long as you didn't mind much of the interior falling off they were robust, long lived and cheap to run and maintain. More surprising was where the Azeris could get with a bog standard Lada Riva...
  14. No lead... but same symptoms as I had with my M51 P38. New head didn't fix it and due to lack of time and funds (and matching orders from my wife) I sold it spares and repairs for a significant loss, without getting to the bottom of the issue. Had planned to just replace the engine but was let down by the breakers I'd sourced one from, hence the new head.
  15. Ah, but not with the required noise, leaks, draughts and lack of elbow room The new defender is definitely more of a direct replacement for an older range rover than an old defender. For this sort of use, that's not a bad thing!
  16. Roller doors are available with or without insulation - non-insulated are cheaper, not surprisingly. Looking at the amount of headroom you've got inside above the door aperture you should have plenty of space for a roller. With a sectional, can you bring it up to ceiling height, or does it have to run back horizontally from around the top of the aperture (which is the standard way of doing it)? If the latter, you'll lose a fair bit of headroom inside when it's open. Anyone know? Sectional doors are much quieter than rollers (which rattle opening and shutting) - but if you're planning to work on your truck in there that's probably of no consequence! They're not that noisy, but if it's say right under a bedroom window and you want to minimise noise when arriving home late at night it could be worth considering.
  17. I didn't like the D3 when it came out, but it grew on me. I know they improved a lot of things on the D4, but I still think the D3 is the better looking version.
  18. Even that doesn't come without an environmental impact - network infrastructure and electricity for data centres. Though I would imagine it's a great deal less than the impact of commuting (by any means other than Shank's pony). Hydrogen fuel cells are pretty good at point of consumption, but generating the hydrogen is currently both uneconomical and environmentally horrendous. Though there's interesting research going on in the area. And it still doesn't deal with the problem of road building/maintenance and congestion. Fundamentally, the whole way we currently operate as a society isn't sustainable.
  19. They'll do it if they reckon they can sell it on. Neighbour's husband was a retired machinist, had his garage kitted out as a proper machine shop. It was cleared out one night - through the window... (it was on the side away from the house - they removed the window and lifted everything out there where they couldn't be seen). That was about forty years ago though. Don't know if modern thieves can be bothered if they can't get a Hiab to it.
  20. For the sake of anyone with the same issue who stumbles across this - the issue was a failed lock control module in the driver's door.
  21. I think @Arjan was more concerned about what the seller was going to charge to ship it as far as him!
  22. I like wood trim in the right car - though I'm not sure that's a defender... It has to be good quality and well finished though, or it just looks seriously tacky. I'd say @monkie is on the money - a couple of years and that'll be a mould stained mess, unless the truck is a fair weather garage queen.
  23. Guessing this is going to be one for a Vauxhall forum, but in case anyone on here has any ideas... The locks on my Zafira C (Tourer) went on the blink yesterday. That doesn't seem to be uncommon, usually down to broken wires, but the symptoms don't appear to add up. I can unlock the drivers door with fob or key, but the passenger doors remain deadlocked. So far that fits with a broken or shorted wire. However, everything I've read expects the tailgate and fuel filler to also remain locked as they're further out on the same loom - and they are both unlocking. Also, the lock buttons on the passenger doors are popping up. If it was one door I'd go with a mechanical failure, but all three at the same time points to an electrical fault somewhere central. Apparently there's a drain from the HVAC that can perish and leak on the BECM causing weird electrical issues including with the locks - but I can't see how you'd get quite this behaviour. There's also a wire in the drivers door which can short to ground causing the system to fail to sense that the drivers door is unlocked and not unlock the other doors - not sure if that's only if you have the central locking set to only open the drivers door on first press and the others on a second (I don't - it's set to open all), but I think if it was that the boot and fuel flap should stay locked too?
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