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Everything posted by geoffbeaumont

  1. Next unread links no longer show the topic you'll go to. Might be deliberate to boost performance but it's definitely less usable if you don't follow all threads. Haven't noticed anything else ๐Ÿ‘
  2. My (perfectly ordinary, single storey) garage has considerably deeper foundations than the 30ft gable end of the house next to it. Which has been standing up perfectly satisfactorily for over a hundred years.
  3. Certainly seems to be the attitude of a significant number of Land Rover's customer base. Judging by the number of Discovery 5's on the road... I rather suspect Colin Chapman wasn't concerned with how pleasant his vehicles were for long distance motorway travel... Sufficient power for high speed cruising with porta-cabin air resistance doesn't solve the the deafening roar...
  4. They were only badged "Classic" in the final run-out (after the P38 was already on sale - guess they were just shifting existing stock), so as far as I'm aware all the vehicles that left the factory badged as such are soft dashes. '86/'87 is years before they were badged classic.
  5. How many cans is that?!! Your dentist must be betting his retirement on you...
  6. Maybe I'm sad...but that is a thing of beauty
  7. How are you going to get proper rust holes in that? ๐Ÿคจ
  8. And owners who just change out parts "'cos the computer sez" are no worse than many garage techs. Or, frankly, many of the bodgers who've "fixed" older land rovers. Who on here has never bought an old vehicle (land rover or otherwise) that turned out to have dangerous cowboy bodge fixes? Incompetence doesn't require the aid of electronics...
  9. Fridge said the worst wrinkles - not all the serious ones... ๐Ÿ˜€
  10. That reminds me of the P38 camera car Land Rover used to (maybe still do) have. It wasn't quite like that - there wasn't much bodywork above door level, just a windscreen and rudimentary cage - with an even more rudimentary hood to keep the rain out when it wasn't in use. And a high 'shooters' seat in the middle of the back for the cameraman.
  11. I've heard the same from VW enthusiasts and commercial users - up to T4 they're near bomb proof, but T5 on are not so great.
  12. Remember there could be leaks elsewhere in the system meaning the compressor is having to pump a lot more air to replace the losses.
  13. Ah - I must have had one of those on my '93, but I've no recollection of it!
  14. First one sounds like the vacuum advance to the distributor? Not sure about the other one - I vaguely recall something similar, but I thought I'd added it to run to the Megasquirt. Don't have the truck any more to check for you
  15. Could put pallet racking in front of the wall. Probably with some thin-ish sheet ply on the back to stop anything getting pushed back and fouling the door. Although that'd be a nightmare dirt trap, so maybe better to just stack the shelves properly...
  16. The Rover V8 was used in both MGB V8 and RV8 as well as the Costello MGB V8 conversions that inspired the factory version, and they're also popular for aftermarket conversion particularly of the MGB. They're a common topic on MG forums.
  17. This sounds like one for Western...
  18. But...n But....no substitute for having the right tyres and not getting stuck in the first place? I've no idea what the "right" tyres for sand are, or whether either of the ones mentioned by the OP are any good, though, so I'm not going to be any more helpful...
  19. Does it still go down if you inhibit the EAS from the dash or by leaving the upper tailgate open? That should stop the controller opening and closing valves, so if it still goes down then you've narrowed the cause to a leak. Assuming that, the next step is to find the leak. In theory for both front and back to go down you'd need to have at least two leaks, but I guess you may find only one does this when the system is inhibited and can't try to level things up. A handheld plant sprayer with water and washing up liquid is your friend. Give the air springs and air lines a good soaking and look for bubbles. Where the plastic lines cross above the exhaust is worthy of close attention - if the exhaust has every corroded through there (even in the past) they can be melted and fail later. The actual valves in the valve block leaking is also possible. Bit harder to prove, but they can be DIY rebuilt (everything on the P38 EAS can be DIY'd - it's not nearly as scary as some people make out). Do you have any fault codes from the EAS system?
  20. And I think (having had both types of dash out - but some time ago), also modifications to the bulkhead. At one time I purchased a softdash (as fitted to final couple of years of RRC) dash with the intention of fitting it to my '93 RR - in large part to get a better heater and vent ducts that were properly sealed - but in the end decided to stick with the original. Partly down to ergonomics (the softdash looks good but controls are not positioned as well as on the previous version), but mainly because I realised it was a bigger job than I'd anticipated. There were various areas I'd have had to modify to fit the softdash, but I'm fairly certain the area around the heater was one of the more significant ones. The heater box is a different shape and has the water pipes through the bulkhead in different places. I didn't look into fitting the more modern heater box within the older dash, but I doubt that would work - very happy to be proved wrong on that one, though!
  21. Ah, no amount of knowledge of how it should work is going to help with that ๐Ÿ˜‰ We've all been there, I think - why doesn't this work? ๐Ÿค” That'll be because some monkey was loose on the vehicle before you!
  22. You can get a flexi shaft for a dremel - well worth having if you go down that route, especially for repetitive work. That little drill gets surprisingly heavy after a while... I'd agree with Fridge and Bowie though - the Dremels aren't really made for heavy work. Mine has been great when treated with respect, but it has been back for repair after I used it for a heavier job (to be fair, probably well outside it's design parameters - I made up a little jig for cutting bevels on the edge of plaster and plasterboard after some builders didn't bother doing the wall corners in our hall properly. Messy but effective. Until I burned the bushes out...).
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