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Steve King

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Posts posted by Steve King

  1. Several years ago I changed the clutch master and slave cylinders on my then current 300 TDi Defender. Unfortunately the replacements arrived in blue boxes!

    After a month I was in the middle of a busy one way system and as I pressed the clutch down to engage first gear there was a loud bang and I was drenched from head to toe in hydraulic fluid!! Happy Days!!

    This time a genuine master cylinder was used, but I left the aftermarket slave cylinder in place and it was still working when i came to sell the vehic1le

  2. Hi F3E4D8A5-3179-4B20-B01F-F3484DB8CE39.jpeg.42f3a0d3672e051e329e8e238111e1b4.jpegSeriously though, wishing all of you Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

    Not entirely sure what is going to happen on the day itself! Our adopted daughter is spending some time with her dad and sister and they are all supposed to be coming here for Christmas dinner and the little teenager was intending to spend the rest of the holidays at home with us. However, covid seems to have infected everyone in their family and meanwhile my wife and I have developed mahoosive chest infections…. We will probably have to postpone it for a few days.

     

    Wheezing  you all a Merry Christmas 

  3. I’ve only just seen this sad news because my iPad was away having a new screen fitted.

    Very sad news- Les was a helpful and knowledgeable guy. I used his services a few times; firstly he fitted a new rear cross member to my first 110, he also sorted the leak from the main oil seal where a garage had tried and failed.

     

    RIP Les, I will raise a glass in your memory.

  4. On 8/1/2022 at 12:00 PM, mickeyw said:

    Having been with and advocated the NFU for over 25 years I am dismayed to find this year's renewal has doubled in price to cover my 110.

    I have a multi car policy with them covering my 20 year old Merc estate as well as the 110. The Merc cover has actually dropped in price, despite having my 81 YO mother on there. The 110 (4.2 V8 CSW with winch and big tyres) has jumped from £350 odd to £626 for myself and SWMBO. Policy total has gone from £619.54 to £907.28. This is for fully comp cover SD&P plus business use, and a 4000 miles per year limit on both vehicles. There have been no changes to drivers' clean records, all is exactly as per last year.
    I questioned whether there had been an error but was given some BS reply

    'The underwriters came back to say both vehicles are in line/below the current technical rates and the change rate amounts are within the 20%cap and therefore the renewal price is correct.'

    I followed on by questioning the 20% cap part as even the whole policy cost has gone up by 46%! Maybe I'm misunderstanding things... I await their reply.

    So now I've been looking at alternatives. Heritage offered good prices for comparable cover, but I am unsure whether to go with their Classic policy for the LR or the mod 4x4. I explained that I use the vehicle off road at play days, but they seemed unconcerned which cover I chose, which worries me considering there's quite a price difference.

    More phoning to do, but I'm a bit peeved with the NFU's response

    Eek!

    With A Flux, my Defender’s premium went down £9 this year, my every day Fiesta went down just under two quid and the premium for my Riley Kestrel stayed the same!

  5. On 5/21/2022 at 4:35 AM, JohnnoK said:

    Can't comment on the Zastavas, but my first car was an Austin Mini 1100 that became a 1275 with twin SUs when I cooked it thanks to that bloody bypass hose failing on me. Drove like the clappers and had shocking brakes, but I still regret "upgrading" to an Alfetta 2 liter.

    I used to drive it from Cape Town to East London to visit the folks every year, a 2100km round trip that was almost always a total hoot and attracted one or two speeding tickets along the way.😆

    The A series engine featured two easy ways to cook itself! The bypass hose was one, and the other was the heater takeoff valve on the cylinder head!

    The heater takeoff valves were badly made at the time, but the current aftermarket replacements are largely carp and fall apart! 

    The bypass hoses that are convoluted and made of thin rubber should only be used as a roadside repair and should be replaced with a suitable length of heater hose. Unfortunately doing the job properly means removing  the fan and water pump, which in turn means removing or moving the radiator.

  6. A lot of 60s cars had the foot switch for main/dipped beam - my Riley does.

    Cracked steering wheels were common too! My dad was left holding a hoop and had to return home just holding on to the spokes - this was in a 105E Anglia!

    • Like 2
  7. 16 hours ago, smallfry said:

    Riley Kestrel, lovely. I really like the tan and taupe colour scheme too ! I remember finding these in the scrapyards in the late Seventies and robbing them of the Holy Grail for my Minis. A rev counter ! Plus twin carbs.

    I had a '66 MG 1100 for a time too reg 954D. Wish I could have kept it AND the reg number. Not an option back then sadly.

    Also had a '67 Austin 1100 that a work colleagues father had bought new, and had sat in his mothers garage for 15 years after he died suddenly. Still had the plastic factory seat covers on it. He wanted it gone for nothing, so I recommissioned it . It started first time ! It was not at all rusty. I really loved it, the ride was so comfortable, and you can see why it was the UKs best selling car at the time. It also did a heady 85 mph and 40mpg if you were careful. I still have all the original sales order, receipts and green log book for it.

    Lent it to my friends daughter who could not afford to buy a first car, but it ended up on its roof in a ditch, and the recovery guys destroyed it by dragging it out via the windscreen pillars. I was "somewhat upset" about that. 

    Fortunately my Kestrel seems to have lived a fairly sheltered life and the sills are original! I believe that the car suffered one or two crashes; the boot floor had some strange reinforcements (now removed) and the O/S B pillar was well out of true. My late mate had the lower B panel (where it meets the sill) replaced.

    The Kestrel was bought by my friend and as he had surrendered his drivers licence owing to eyesight issues brought about by MS, I was swiftly offered a half share of the car for half of the purchase price which I happily stumped up. Sadly Dave’s MS returned big time and he passed away in 2018 leaving me (with the consent and encouragement of his family) as the sole owner.

    The remaining task are mainly completing the under bonnet electrics, refitting the dash and fitting the radiator and associated plumbing.

    My old GT was quite economical and 40 mpg was achievable as long as you didn’t go much above 60 mph on a motorway! 

    • Like 1
  8.  

    On 4/11/2022 at 10:35 PM, Happyoldgit said:

    Haha, I recall adverts in Exchange and Mart for "over-sills" that you could fit over existing panels to cover up inconvenient patches of corrosion and any unsightly holes. Welding not required 🤣

    Those cover sills caused more problems than they cured. The original drainage holes were ignored and so the floor would rot out!

    This was also a problem on the ADO16: the Austin/Morris, Wolseley, Riley, VDP, MG, Old Uncle Tom Cobley and all 1100 and 1300 range of cars! Lovely cars to drive and quite advanced when they were introduced! However designed in rust points, poor steel and poor build quality (plus poor repairs) all played their part in many thousands of these going to the scrappy!

    I passed my test in an Austin 1300 GT, it is still on the road, but sadly not under my ownership and they are quite rare nowadays!

    I do have a MK1 Riley Kestrel version, that is nearly restored.

    2DBB97AA-8EDF-445B-B83C-8E298A24B7A4.jpeg

    8900C3C1-8EA0-4248-9EC8-3ACB39A357E1.jpeg

    • Like 3
  9. 12 hours ago, cackshifter said:

    I don't know what you whippersnappers are moaning about, I retire in 40 working days, I'll be 70, and the war cost me over 40k on investment value. I have worked almost 48 years, stopping is a very scary thought 

    I recently received a letter from my IFA saying that one of my pension funds has shrunk by 10% since the outbreak of the war in Ukraine. My IFA is taking the long view and says not to panic… 

     

  10. 36 minutes ago, Anderzander said:

    That’s a small list Steve ! 

    I didn’t mention:

     

    Re-gluing the foam headlining in the rear.

    Replacing the passenger door lock barrel (it can’t be opened with the key and is either damaged or a different pattern to the driver’s door).

    Investigate the weep on the radiator.

    Investigate the slight fuel leak that could that seems to be coming from the top of the fuel tank.

    Sort out the spigot bush on the clutch; it has made a “wurra - wurra”  noise since I bought it in 2011! Whilst I’m about it I will change the clutch completely and the DMF.

    Finally find and fix the leak that causes a puddle in the driver’s footwell: Captain Tolleys, tape and silicone have not worked so far! 

    Errm probably other stuff too, but I’m currently recovering from covid and have a fuzzy brain!

     

     

     

     

    • Haha 1
  11. 1) Fit the new heated seat elements. I’ve had the new elements three years!

    2) Wire in the headlight adjustment switch and fit the motors etc to the lamps.

    3) Fit the mini Mud Pod and fit rev counter, external temperature gauge and some other gauge (haven’t decided yet!)

    4) Either replace the checker plate on the bonnet with a black anodised one or strip and repaint the  current peeling one!

  12. On 11/23/2021 at 1:51 PM, Tanuki said:

    I've got a 110AmpHour Yuasa in my Defender; it's been there three years and has been worked hard powering a couple of hundred Watts of HF radio-gear while parked-up with the engine off.

    Yuasa aren't cheap - but a good battery is a hell of a lot cheaper than having to pay to get a recovery-company out on a sunday evening!

    My first Yuasa lasted ten months, however the replacement under guarantee is going strong after three years. 

  13. We had an inch of snow first thing, but it soon melted in the drizzle that followed.

    The wind was very loud and during the night and this morning there were a few trees down, one of which is just opposite the path that the littl’un takes on her way to school.

    It is fortunate that I have mats with raised edges in the 110 TD5 because the mat on the driver’s side was near to overflowing! 

    4950350A-A088-49B9-ACAB-4C3005540596.jpeg

  14. On 5/30/2021 at 6:36 PM, reb78 said:

    Just looked at my V5 - it says County but not station wagon anywhere. The county pack could only be added to station wagons couldn't it?

     

    it is registered as an estate though!

    Whats the VIN code for a station wagon? I seem to remember one or a set of the letters indicated an SW?

    No the County spec was available for hardtops too! 
     

     

  15. The fuel does not store very long as has been mentioned, so lawnmowers, chainsaws, hedge trimmers etc could be affected.

    Owners of classic cars should only put in the bare minimum of fuel, or be prepared to drain the fuel tank!  There are products on the market that claim to reduce the effect of E10 on hoses and gaskets, but is there anything that will make E10 store longer and remain effective?

    My 1967 Riley Kestrel 1100 (badge engineering at its finest!) slowly progresses to the completion of the restoration and    the cylinder head was converted to unleaded valve seats and the pipes switched to E5 compatible ones.

     

     

  16. On 8/11/2021 at 3:42 PM, Jocklandjohn said:

    I fitted one to my 110, went according to the book. It would heat up and jam on, and several times I'd to stop at the roadside and disconnect it in order to get home. Finally stripped it completely and refitted it. Same again. Had one more go but no use. I contacted X-Eng for advice and followed it, got a mate to assist and check it over. Same problem happened again.

    We ended up coming the conclusion that the problem was too much end-float on the output shaft (newly refurbed boxes from Ashcrofts) and although VERY minor & maybe even within tolerances was sufficient to create some friction in the handbrake which increased as it got hotter.

    Eventually I had to remove it, revert to drum (which works fine) and the disc was sold on here with a full explanation of my reasons for selling and offer of money back if it was a problem for the buyer (although X-Eng offered to take it back themselves). Cant recall who bought it, but its apparently been fine and dandy so I was just very unlucky.

    The brake itself was hunky dory, worked like a charm, but it seems that some vehicles just wont accept it without it creating some issues.

    See above.

    I tried several times to stop the X-Brake binding and then tried two garages who failed too.  After a while I decided to go back to standard. 
     

    The only issue I ever had with the original   drum brake was the cable snapping! 

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