NicTheOrange90
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Posts posted by NicTheOrange90
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Bro in law has arrived from Scotland on his way to holland.
He had to be relayed by AA as his front diff seems to have siezed.
He is out there at the moment taking the half shafts and front prop off, and I said to him "so where is your diff lock switch" (its an auto)....
Long silence....
Do P38's have diflock or do you have to drive it in low box (not for long journey ?)
Can he drive it with no half shafts or front prop or will the power just go to his spinning output shaft on the transfer box ?
ALso his car has ABS, which use the outer edge of the CV joint, but the CV's are/wll both be out so will this stop the vehicle from going anywhere...?
Ta
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Disco rear axle probably has a 3 bolt flange to go on the doohnut, these can be swapped with new flange and oil seal (got mine from ashcroft) to accept a 90 prop.
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I have a few re-bushes coming up, so indulged myself in a 10t press to pop those radius arms out...
Did both radius arms in a flash (well more like a bang) and no drilling/hacksawing required...
So if anyone else has this task up and coming and wants to avail themselves of my nice shiney press, just PM me, evenings and weekend work same cost, and I might even make you a cuppa while you wait !
Im in Sandwich BTW
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My 110 Td5 has 135k on it and is still sweet !
Gary @ TD5Alive chipped it a month or so ago, said it was running well and all OK !
Pulls much better since he did his magic !
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Lucky me .. I just got one from them 2 weeks ago..
When i looked into it, http://www.mm-4x4.com/ were next cheapest, but will need to check which glass they put in the door. Not worth it if its £144 with just plain glass but worth ringing them.
Yep gave them a call, they had to make some enquiries but came back to me and confirmed one of the manufacturers of LR Panels has ceased trading, and the other one is snowed under.
Got one with heated glass already in.
Should arrive in next few days...
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Ordered a new 'safari' door yesterday from PAddocks, then they called to say they did not have ANY rear doors in as company wit made em gone busted...
Any one else know where to get a new (300Tdi rear door glazed and heated)....?
Part no was LR509D..
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Hey Nic,
In terms of refitting the seats, it looks like a fairly straightforward unbolt and re-bolt job. New seats will be in black outlast from exmoor I think. may go for the whole hog and get the heated ones for the front. (do they come already internally fitted with the heating kit?)
What I might do while the seats are out is a bit of a wire-brush and repaint job inside..........hmm....thinking........
You can get new seats (as you suggest bolts only) or a retrim kit whereby you keep the frames (I normally refurbish them as well) fit new foam, heaters if required and then the fabric/leather etc.
If you get complete new seats, Im interested in your existing ones as I can refurbish them.
Heaters can be fitted by Exmoor when you order seats.
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Graham,
I did my 110 seats in the G4 trim and put heaters in the two front ones.
Im always available to retrim yours if your not happy doing it -shame your the other end of the country !
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2. Mount a radio unit on the lower half of the dash, fwd of the gearstick for my new radio
3. Fit 3 52mm gauges in the "black oval" on the lower half of the dash (oil pressure, tachometer and mixture analyser - more for light than any real use I may add))
4. Fit a bank of 6 carling switches on the main dash or on a mudpod (all just blanked off for the moment)
See you have seen the mud pod, why not get their mud dash, seems it would sort out a lot of your problems in one go...
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What is G4 ????? is that vinyl / waterproof.???
Lastly anyone know if the exmoor trim do these and if so how good vs the originals are they ?
Ta all
Nige
G4 is a vinyl two part cover in black. Centre section is smooth with round lumps called dimples, and outer section is a matt finish that compliments the inner http://www.exmoortrim.co.uk/erol.html#1215X0.
I have had a full set on my 110 for ten or eleven months, and rate them both on looks and function (wipe clean with damp cloth), I would not say they would be fully waterproof as they have stiched seams.
I have fitted a few exmoor kits now, and if your handy with a pair of sissors and a few tools. Always found them good and straightforward.
I always refurbish the seat frame as well which takes longer than the fitting of seats as you have to rub metal down and spray a couple of coats of paint.
I have a set of front seats that are waiting full refurb, will be grey twill unless I get an order for something else.
The LR OEM vinyl seats seem to be one piece fronts which have stitching moulded in as opposed to real stitches so would be more waterproof (IMHO).
My 110 has bench seats, and have recently bought a set of three individual seats for the back, I will be retrimming the rear seats in G4.
I also fit seat heaters in front seats which helps in a drafty Defender !
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I bought 24 tins of Hammerite black (12 smooth/12 satin) got them 1/2 the price of hight street and Ebay, but for rear cross members I use the hand painted version, as I want a nice thick coat of paint to keep the crud off.
I use shiney black, but it does not stay this way for long, but when you come to clean it, having gloss makes a hige difference.
Also having both from same company [aerosol and tin of paint) means they wont react with each other when I use the spray to get into the nooks and crannies...
FYI have NAS style towbar which was rubbed down and sprayed with four coats in garage, rest of the bits (and now the tobar bolts etc) are coated with hand painted black.
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Ive done a few now, if anyone wants their seats done for them, I offer very reasonable rates !...
Mine have G4 trim and seat heaters for a nice warm bottom !
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I check my UJs as part of the service plan, so hopefully would pick them up before the noise.
BTW on some UJ's they rumble when they fail, and this could be in the form of vibration in a band under load (ie around a certain speed).
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Sorry, sounds a bit vague, I mean 50 miles extra per tank of fuel, which on the mileage I did, meant that it paid for itself in only a few months.
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I did upgrade on my Td5 110 2002MY and used CS Gears in Coventry.
I did find it a bit underpowered (IMHO) and 1st gear starting with a trailer and vehicle on the back was not so much fun.
Since getting the TD5 Alive treatment and decat downpipe its a totally different vehicle, and I recon I get at least another 50MPG due to being able to stay in higher gears longer.
IMHO do both...
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Personally I found getting the old UJ's out a bit of a pain, and if I were doing it for a client, it would be cheaper (labout etc) to get a prop.
I ended up getting one UJ out with a grinder (cut spiders off then used old UJ race in vice to free up old one)
I see you might be local, so try these guys http://search.ebay.co.uk/search/search.dll...search&fgtp=
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The main problems I had are with the wiring, I had a spare White/red trace wire I couldn't find a home for.
I think the white red is a supply for any accessories that need to be ignition fed... put a meter on it and see if it becomes live with ignition on...
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Looks like the compressor might be useless then!
I'm sorry i don't understand what you mean when you say high level?
Thanks,
Mark
Mark,
I enclose two pictures, one of an early defender,
with the AC in the dashand one that most of us are more familiar with..
Which one did/does yours have... ? And would you not want to have it re-instated?
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Yes Nick, it would help as the rear seat locking parts are different to the 1989 version.
It stopped raining for just a few mins so nipped out and took these...
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Would it help if I took a photo of my 2002 Defender catches ?
Whilst I think these seats are very nice, you might (assuming the final price will end up more than the current 205) be wise to consider the Exmoor Trim refurbishment route...
I have G4 re-trimmed seats in my 110, they look much better than cloth or grey finishes... (IMHO of course)
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Do they come as separate part #
They are not easy to get off with out the plastic thingy... is this available separately?
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Id put a meter on the fan wire and see if its getting a supply then start tracing wire back. (after you check fuse) etc.
Is your vehicle one with AC at high level (ie no place to put radio in middle).
IMHO unless capped and stored properly the compressor might have dried seals.
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The winch bumper on G4 looks like standard bumper with a winch bit added in the middle. All the rest are tapered and dont look OEM.
Im not in a rush, so will wait and watch Eblag...
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Ive got one from a 110 NAD, I can measure it at both lengths if you want, its in good condition and yours for a tenner+postage, you dont say where you are so dont know if your local to collect.
P38 - Auto V8 does it have dif lock 1995MY
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
bugger !
Will have to go to plan B whatever that is on a Sunday !