kevin50

Thanks will try get a thermometer and check. just concerned if I run it to much it will damage soinething.

Not sure how much of a problem this is yet. 2.25 Petrol. not on the road yet in the process of rebuild.Dont think there is any water coming out of top hose into engine, or bottom for that matter, first thing I done was pulled the thermostat out and done the check in boiling water and it opes and closes OK.Symptoms are Rad getting very hot top and bottom , exhaust and manifold to hot to touch.tonight I let it run for a good 15 minuets, looked and seemed fine but could not feel ant water running through hoses. Did not loose any water at all but when I turned engine off there was steam coming from rad cap, lossened it slowly and carefully but no water gushing out.Thinking it could be water pump is there a way to check pump ?.

Thanks seen that , some wires on mine I dont reconise. Pic of Gauges and Wires that lead to it.Got the Ignition barrel to fit to dash and need a new switch for lights.I know the wires on left of pic go to wiper and heater motors.Can anyone point me in the right direction to which wire goes where from pics so I can get started on this ?

Really need to get the wiring finished on my rebuild. Using the harness from a ex MOD Ambulance, so there will be a few wires that I dont need. Got some wires identified with help from a friend , got a pretty good idea of what goes to what in engine bay and rear of chassis but struggling with how to wire the dash gauges up. The wires on the left in pic are for heater and wiper motors so they are straight forward its the rest I need help with like Ignition, fuse box, solenoid lights ect.

Thanks mine is a series with the 6 bolts in the top.

Anyone fitted one of these before , Aint got a clue of how they join together, you would think there would be instructions with them.Anyone fitted one of these ? Sender unit - all SWB and LWB tanks with 6 screw fitting - Paddock Spares

Thanks gonna give it a go, one thing to mention is the whole system is completely empty, whats the best way to fill first before bleeding. do I just keep topping MC up untill it starts coming through each corner ?

Filled the clutch master up tonight tried to bleed it on my own with one of those halfords ezzy bleeds, it worked a treat when I used it on defender brakes last year but couldnt get it to work on clutch just running straight through before I could nip it up. . pedal was very heavy. Anyway after a bit of googling I reverse bled it with a syringe, still not sure if it is right , still quite heavy, got a mate who drives a series will get him to check it when he comes. Pedal height correct and sure the freeplay is as near as dam it so will see. Dreading doing the brakes do I do the same as clutch ? no nut to adjust pedal height , can I do it with the 2 lock nuts ?

Never seen or heard of shims in there before.

Please Forgive me but Struggling to get these dam things set up right, just cant get my head round it. On with Series rebuild this is where I am at , clutch and brake parts are all brand new parts from rear to front shoes cylinders drums pipes fittings ect, new clutch , fork slave, all pipe work, and both masters are also new. No fluid in yet, trying to get them adjusted so I can get fluid in and bled , I can get the peddles at the correct height but just cant get how to get the 1.5,mm play when adjusting the 2 locknuts, looked at loads of writeups and vids but where exactly on the rod does the free play have to be ? does it have to be spot on ? Just want it done right before fill with fluid and connect everything up to bleed. Thanks

Thanks Mate

Anyone fitted these seats ? Deluxe Outer Seat Back - Paddock Spares Are they predrilled for bolts ?, not sure what fittings to get in diagram. Front Seats, Drivers and Passengers - 109in V8 - From March 1980 - Find Land Rover parts at LR Workshop

Thanks had not noticed that gap in rod end, gonna nip things up today to see if things move freely

Rethreaded them metric, fitted box and everything seems nice and tight. mock fitted the drop arm on box and rod that goes to relay, think I have got it centered or as near as dam it as was not sure what to do so marked the big nut where steering wheel fits, counted the turns then halved it, not sure if that was right or not ?, Wil need to reroute the brake pipe somewhere though. Also how much oil does it take to fill relay, ? Does it look right ? Thanks

Need the 4 bolt holes in to chassis at bottom of relay rethreaded to fit , no one seems to know right size but found this here Tap size | Land Rover UK Forums (lrukforums.com)I dont have any unf taps just metric, would a similar metric bolt and thread do ?Bolts are in diagram 544337

Just about ready to fix floors and tunnel back in think everything is done down there now. Shall I put a load of grease in here first ?

Must have done something wrong here, cant see how wheel will fit if the bits are on right in first pic , tried it on and no where near, think thats how they go in diagram.

Got the diagram but they dont seem to be right when fitted , will post pics later.

Not sure what I have done here, I refurbished one box out of 2, think This is a series 3 shaft, my truck is series 2a, which steering wheel will I need or will both fit ? ?. I have these parts but not sure how the indicator canceler goes on, will I need it ? Cant find any pics on google, Thanks

Got a solid pipe off a mate and done it this way, think ive done it is ok

Thanks I have a solid pipe to run along middle, not sure if I need it or not but have seen others with it, Another pic from top, am I right in thinking that number 1 from heater goes to number 3, and number 2 from heater goes to number 4 ?? Thanks

2.25 Petrol. Just fitted my flat smiths heater back in, now when I stripped vehicle there was no engine so dont know how things connect back up. pretty sure I have the right connections, but need to know what joins to what, anyone got a pic of there set up so I can copy /

Just fitted mt steering box to my rebuild, No steering wheel fitted yet but I can turn it freely by hand, what position does it need to be before putting arm back on ? Thanks

Mine half way there I think.

Thanks probably easier to get to as said using the proper fixings, just some of the holes have been made bigger over the years on mine, might need some big washers for some of them.