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Gromit

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About Gromit

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    Old Hand

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    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRWDNoeOsA4

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  • Location
    Ireland - Sunny Dundalk.

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  1. I have a 2005 TD5 110, and I've stripped the splines off the short rear half shaft. (The VIN year code is 5H) If I am reading microcat correctly, the part number is TOB500020 for half shaft from VIN year 2A on. This is £40 on paddocks and lrseries, compared to say £16 for the pre 2A half shafts. Is this correct, or am I missing something? Thanks,
  2. if you shorted the relay socket under the drivers seat and the pump didn't make any noise, you can apply 12v to the top of the pump before you remove it, to see if there is any life in it.
  3. Does it still have the EGR in place? Could be sticking.
  4. The later one has an exchanger for the EGR gasses on the front of the block. Irrelevant really if you are removing the EGR.
  5. I emailed him (irbdevelopments@btinternet.com, though it was probably 12 months ago now) and got ERG, decat and straight mid pipes. He did sometimes take a while to reply, but am very happy with the components.
  6. I've had a TD5 Hard Top as my daily for about a year. Had a 200tdi CSW before that. I always fancied one because of the sound of them Now I can actually overtake with relative ease At this point, all the common problems are documented. Oil in the loom, fuel pumps dying / regulators leaking, MAF sensors going, oil pump bolt and plastic dowels in the head on the early ones. I've had a few small problems. The fuel pump relay was not seated correctly, leaving me stranded for a while, as it took a while to find the problem. (I'd had the truck a week!) After starting, it'll occasionally be in no-boost/limp mode for about 15 seconds, before it returns to full power. This I assume to be the MAF or MAP sensor playing games, but the problem is so intermittant, it isn't a problem at the moment, and isn't getting worse. The fuel economly is awful. I clocked it once at about 28mpg and haven't done it since. This is with muds and a roofrack. If you like driving one, then go for it. I personally love mine. None of the problems are going to be mad expensive, short of a cracked fuel rail or other head problem.
  7. FYI, the rear outrigger mounting point that you would find on a CSW is absent on a HT.
  8. Mine is non-liner too, but my light comes on exactly 1/2 way into the orange segment, which is a bit too late really.
  9. One of the reasons I have a defender is that I HATE cars that are smarter than their drivers; headlights that turn on automatically in the dark, automatic parking brakes, <BONG> your keys are in the ignition, <BONG> the door is open, <BONG> you shouldn't be allowed to drive etc. etc. However, for my arrogance, the gods have seen fit to have me leave the parking lights on a few times, and it might only be a matter of time before I come back to a dimly glowing truck with a flat battery. So, I think I should wire up a lights-on warning 'buzzer'. Wiring it isn't a problem, but I don't want a buzzer. I'd like a single "by-the-way dude, the lights are on" beep rather than the usual "YOU F*&"£$£$G MORON, YOU ARE GOING TO DIE, DIE, DIE, DIE, DIE" claxon type affair usually found. So, where would I find such a buzzer/sounder before my battery goes fla..... ?
  10. My inner geek is loving this thread Great stuff guys.
  11. yes I know, I've been meaning to look for the photos again, as the original ones were lost from photobucket. The originals may be on one of 3 machines, but I'm unlikely to get to looking for them for a while. Anyway, the job is easy enough, though some things may need a bit of fettling, which takes time. The biggest PITA was getting the window channels out. Keep a drill and drinder handy.
  12. Agreed - time to get shouty with Customer Services. (You could also have a quick look and see if there's any oil in the gearboxes. )
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