Revor

I too would spend more time in Moab. And I live only 300 miles away! It's true, the resources available for the hiker/biker/wheeler in the Moab area is second to none. They want you to go have fun and bring the rental jeep back. Jimfoo is an excellent resource for trips and trails around this area, you can find his work here www.solihullsociety.org or sometimes you can find him at my place drinking my beer!

To read the media it sounds as if the whole island is sinking under the weight of the snow and everyone will need to be ferried off to France! Glad to hear you guys are having a good time of it! Snow is afterall natures excuse to get sideways on the roadway.

What I aspired for in my shop! Worked and worked for it! In the end it ended up being a business.. carp! Took the fun out of it!

Thanks guys. Yep it must have been comical watching me shake the intake manifold for 10 minutes before I could feel confident there was nothing in there.

I recieved my new head on friday thanks to the folks at Turner Engineering for the quick turn around. Pretty much stuck it on, bled the system, crossed my fingers and fired it up! Note to self, just because it's an electronically controlled engine don't forget the basics! (or wierd stuff finding their way into the intake manifold) Thanks again guys, for your support and ideas!

Been watching that one! Beautiful work! I hope to duplicate it soon!

After having a closer look, our friend the stud was bouncing around from port to port, my guess is once the damage was done in one port it would get blown back out into the intake and go down another. From left to right intake valves 1,2,3,4,5. Only 1 and five are straight..

The offending piece.. Seems it also spent some time in #3 cylinder as well! I can only think that it fell in during dismantling at the breakers, only because of the downward angle of the intake on the TD5.

Soooo we've finally got decent weather here this weekend. Loads of time to trouble shoot and double check things. After doing all that double checking and troubleshooting I noticed while cranking the engine over by hand (to double check the timing) the there was a hissing sound on most all the compression strokes. That's not right!! After some listening I determined that it was indeed coming from the crankcase!! No further question the head has to come off. First off was the intake manifold. When I removed it a nasty black liquid had been resting inside it and splashed all about the floor. Obviously amix of water oil and fuel. Also found in the puddle of "stuff" was a mashed and bent up 6mm stud and Nut like you would normally find holding the injectors to a GEMS intake manifold! Not a good sign! I then had Karen crank the engine while I held my hands over the intake ports.. well four of the five would blow as well as suck while cranking.. No compression.. After removing the head i found the #2 intake valve to be the victom of the stud and bolt. The valve is bent and the seat is pretty much gone. This would explain why it would run decent some of the time and occasionally (when the stud got stuck in the valve) act liek it was only running on 4.. On top of that, probably because it overheated due to this "little" problem, 1,2,3 and four pistons where nice and clean (and wet) only #5 was dry and carboned up. Surprisingly the damage to the piston is minimal, I'll evaluate teh bottome end tommorow. Well carp now I need a head.. Any recommendations about who to stay away from? As I'll likely be buying it from the UK you guys would know best. Also does it make sense to pick up an entire unit from one who needed just teh block? Or should I avoid that? One other question does anyone use studs in these heads rather than stretch bolts? I'd lie to thank you all for your thoughts, Ideas and Support! I can only hope this has been intersting if not a bit educational for the forum.

Checked the odometer.. 133 miles from the last fill up.. Seems that fuel might be okay if she ran 133 miles on it. My wife has a habit of using that little yellow light as the indicator for refueling rather than observing the fuel gauge (thanks little yellow light!) but she is good at resetting the odometer for me while I've been tracking the milage since I put the motor in. It's going to be decent weather all weekend, I should have lots of time to take things apart.

I'll be checking that on the weekend.. I did ask my wife "the question" and yes I did get an earfull. In the end I think she's right in that she didn't put the wrong fuel in it. That doesn't mean the fuel station wasn't smoking something. I'll have a chance to drain and refill and I'll report back.

Well there now you're trying to get me in hot water with the Wife! About 4 years ago we were camping up in Wyoming, she went up early in the F350 7.3L DIESEL , I came up later in the Disco 4.6L PETROL. On the way home we decided to fill up both vehicles. I filled up the Disco and she filled up the Ford. I wasn't paying attention to what she was doing.. Needless to say about 5 miles down the road and 200 miles from home she found that petrol doesn't work in diesel trucks. Me being all wise in my eye's have never let her off the hook for that one. Constantly reminding her that her car is now a DIESEL! That said, should I go and ask her I'll likely get an earful! I'm pretty sure she had just filled it up. 99% sure it's diesel but I'll double check though:) and if it is half petrol!!!

Okay so figure this. (oh oh! I've been thinking about these responses) White smoke = unburnt atomized fuel and /or low compression. If there where to be firing at the wrong time this would be an opportunity for white smoke. Or perhaps the cam timing somehow slipped. I've done an "eyball" check of the cam timing, that is that I had a peek at the collored links on the chanin in what the manual says should be the TDC position of the chain and compared that to the cam lobe postion, both lobes off the valves when the chain comes to TDC tells me that the cam and chain are at least in sync... Ahh right? Okay the next thought is that the chain/sprocket may have slipped on the crank, I am assuming this is held in place by a rather large Key. (the book doesn't show too much of this aspect of the timing chain so I am unsure) Can these motors actually slip timing? Next thought is a false signal from the CPS, it's got the flywheel to get it's information from several (5?) holes at each TDC how does the motor which is number one? I'll have to go back and look at the operating stratigy. Given that the ECU relies only on the CPS to tell it where the heck it's at can this information become distorted enough to prevent the engine from running even if the CPS is functioning? I'm going to have a look at he flywheel, the best i can next opportunity to see if something wierd is going on, Also I'll look into a better what to figure TDC on #1, I think there is a "better than eyeball" way to test it without pulling the front cover.. On another note it does rattle and complain when squirting ether directly into the intake manifold but it does not fire.. Makes me wonder about cam timing and the compression. Thanks for the feedback so far gents!!!!!

Thanks for that! I might have a need, some breakers aren't interested in shipping to the States. I'll owe you a Fat Tyre (no come on now it's "Fat Tire" on the label! I could ship a case over, comes in cans these days and it's better as they don't use the preservatives they use in the Bottled brew..

I will add "tow start" to the list and give it a go.. A new ECU would be great but at the moment I was sort of waiting for a flashable version. Is it possible that the ECU could be all whacked out and still give proper values (not that I'm really sure what those should be any way) to the Nano-Com? I've not heard of that, nothing is out of the question.

Thanks Guys! I have looked for the oil in the loom, seemingly bright shiny and clean. Most pics I've seen of the oil in teh loom shows a giant mess. What I saw was oil in the connectors at the injectors, none in the connector at that head that I can see nor is there any at the ECU. Struggling with the fuel thing as well but it seems I've got plenty going in and plenty coming out sooooo.. Should be okay. I got a hint to pull the starter and clean it and make sure it's electrically "quiet" that's what's next. Of course it snowed this AM so it will have to wait. At the same time I'll try and do a compression test on each cylinder, I would think that a holed pistn or the like would cause a good bit of diesel to get in the crankcase, whilst I've been messing with this thing, although I'm pretty immune to smells (wife says I always smell of gear oil) I can pick out diesel I think.

It just won't start! To begin it's 2000 Defender TD5 transplanted into a 97 Disco. After completion of the project it ran like a dream for some 4000+ miles Towards "the end" it would seem to hiccup like it was loosing fuel on one cylinder for a couple revs at any rpm any gear, after which it would come back to life strong as can be. Finally one day it just quit in a fog of white smoke I'm told (the wife was driving it) All the while I had been waiting for my Nanocom to arrive. It did and off I went to testing. There were no codes that would seem to cause a non starting engine, the Alarms is sync-ed up properly, I see RPM's on the Nanocom screen so the the CPS must be working (changed it anyway) All the injectors are clicking away MAP/IAT seems Okay, MAS too.. All the remaining sensors are reading what the should I think? Fuel pressure from the pump is 75 PSI and the same on a blocked return line. The fuel coming back from the engine while cranking is clear and free from aeration. When I have the reurn line blocked the gauge will hold that 75PSI all day long so it would seem that the fuel rail is sealed up well. If I crank the engine with a full 75 psi on the gauge and the relay out it will loose pressure (fuel pump relay out) as if the injectors are using fuel. It does cough up grey smoke out of the tailpipe while trying to start Spraying ether or diesel straight down the intake manifold doesn't get it to fire. Valve timing seems to be correct (by eyeball) I think I've gone through everything but I must be missing something. Ideas?

That's funny..

So I've read about 'Pin 19" on the TD5 ECU being the output for a tachometer signal but I am wondering if it can drive a Disco 1 factory tach? Or on the TD5 alternator is there a 'W' connection? I tried plugging a wire to the 'extra' pin on the alternator but it seems it didn't want to play. Looking for suggestions.. Thanks!

A Good friend of mine did this a few years back... http://www.africaoverland.org/index.htm I'm currently building a truck just like his to do the Canning Stock Route with him in OZ in 2010

Non abs RRC Hubs, 110 Rotors, 110 Calipers and a Caliper bracket "FTC 3306" You can also shave .100" off the caliper bracket and use Disco/D90/RRC calipers with The matching rotors..

A very small dose! And take out the valve core! It's amazing how fast those things fly!

A TT would have a '912A' At the beginning of the part number. If it's a TT there will be six bolts going into the case parallel to and just inside the crownwheel bolt holes, to hold the whole thing together on that side. http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/ProductsServ...etrac/index.htm Cheers Keith

8" from a Later Hilux beam axle truck should do the trick

Rear Prop angles can be a problem with a large lift.. The Housing should be rotated and a Double cardan Driveshaft installed if you are that high.. The front is High pinion and is the slickest fit in a coiler... I don't think I need to say more as the benefits of these diffs have all been mentioned here already, but if anyone is interested I can provide a condensed version of the PBB links as we send out as intructions with out kits.. E Mail keith@rovertracks.com One added benefit to us guys in the States is cost.. With a little elbow grease A guy can lock up his diffs with selectable lockers and add som mighty tough halfshafts with excellent CV'S for under $5000 US... Certainly you can come close with ARB and MD stuff but the diff will now be the weak point and considering most the guys that would like this kit run 35" or bigger tires low gears are a must... 4.75.1 Rover with a tiny pinion gear or a 4.88 Toy with some size to it.. Thanks Keith www.rovertracks.com