Marks 110

Sorry my mistake make that 295mm, I've just re-read the thread.

I'm just swapping the dipstick over from my defender engine to the disco block. Once removed it was obvious it had dropped at some point as you could see the depression in the tube where the olive was originally crimped on and it was very loose. It seemed that the dipstick had dropped about an inch and a half below this level so I may not have had enough oil in for some time. Just done a search and Western had measured his as 255mm from the top of the nut to the top of the dipstick so I'll reset mine to this. Worth checking though as you could be running low on oil without realising. Mark

Yes there is a sleeve with the seal. I presume this is withdrawn and discarded once the seal is fitted. Mark

I'm about to put a spare 200tdi engine back into the 110 after swapping my own parts over onto the disco block. Next job is to refit the flwheel housing and cranshaft oil seal. I have a dowty seal but should I fit it to the housing first or after the housing is bolted to the block? Cheers Mark

Rings were nearly £20 per piston! Mind you theres only one bore where the rust is bad (there must have been water sat in there at some time) so I think I'll just do this one. I'll take a picture but I've never managed to get one uploaded in the past. Mark

Had similar - drive flange splines gone. Cheap and easy fix. You'll see quite clearly if you remove the rubber hub caps. Worth a look and ok to drive it like this in difflock for a short distance. Mark

Thinking of nipping out to machine mart and grbbing a cylinder hone as I'm still not happy with finish of the bores. Any tips for using one. Will I have to fit new rings (there not cheap, best part of £20 inc.vat from Turners) or will the old ones bed in ok? I'm guessing new rings. Mark

After fitting a couple of cheap head gaskets from paddocks which both lasted just over a year I've put an elring on my own and a mates vehicle. Both have been ok so far. Turners do them quite reasonable. I've not yet seen a 200tdi with anything other than a three hole gasket but the only way to know for sure is to check the piston protrusion above the block. This will also highlight the presence of any bent con-rods. Ask me how I know! Mark

Anybody know if the flywheel on a N/A 2.5 is the same as the 200 tdi. Also are the housings interchangeable? Cheers Mark

When I fitted a digital gauge to my 110 I just drilled out and tapped the old sender to 1/8 NPT to accept the new digital sensor, there's a thread about it somewhere. Mark

Cheers Les will let you now how I get on. Mark

I'm going to fit an old disco 200tdi block into my defender. I've had it lying around in my garage for a while and it was sat in a scrapyard for some considerable time before that. Mileage and condition unknown but it looks ok and turns over smoothly. As I'd taken the head off it to lend to a mate the bores have gone a little rusty, should I try and clean them up before refitting or will the action of the rings clean it off? Also I'm a bit worried about starting it up as I've heard horror stories about tdi's running on their own oil. What precautions should I take? Mark

I have also got a leak of ATF from the same position and was also surprised to see a leak that high up. I've currently got the transmission tunnel off so will take a closer look but at first glance couldn't pinpoint where it was coming leaking from. Will let you know if I can locate the leak. Mark

Anyone know if it can be rebored with cam in situ. I'd rather leave cam bearings alone as I hear they have to be line reamed. Are cam bearings prone to wear? Judging by the state of the others they probably could do with changing. Other option is a disco block which I have in the garage. Don't know if its a runner but looks ok. Theres a bit of rust started to form on the bores though should I try and remove this? Mark

Just got round to taking the engine out of the 110 after running it for the last 6 months with a suspected bent con-rod due to a head gasket failure. Found that -no.4 conrod bent like a banana (had to grind some off to get it out) -oil control ring broken -cylinder has score mark at bottom, I presume where con-rod has contacted it -this piston was also wet (diesel?) others were dry -big end and main bearing shells worn back to copper -crank and cam look in good condition and no noticeable wear lip at top of cylinders Not sure weather to partially rebuild it or get it professionaly reconditioned (current mileage 160,000). Biggest problem I think is damage to the bore but as it is mainly at the botton will it still run ok? Any opinions much appreciated as its the first time I've attempted this. Mark

Trouble was when I've tried to repair the leaking pinion seal in the past (i'm now on the fourth one, they seem to start leaking again after a few months)I forgot about the collapsible bearing spacer so I don't know if the nut is tightened correcly. How difficult a job is if to fit a new spacer? If it means dismantling the diff I'd need to make a spreader to stretch the casing. Mark

Just checked the timing on my own 110 and everything lines up perfectly. Even more convinced the problem with my friends vehicle is related to the injection pump.

I've also got a similar leaky salisbury and I'm looking at getting a reconditioned unit to replace it. (It sounds a bit dodgy fitting something that can't cope with the load rating) Can anybody recommend where to source one. Mark

Landy is now running well and on its way back to London. Just to re-cap I had the timing set as follows Woodruff key at 12 o'clock and timing pin engaged in flywheel grove Dot on camshaft pulley aligned with arrow Injection pump timing pin fully engaged and also dot on pulley aligned But in this state the engine ran badly chucking out loads of smoke So I set back the cranshaft and camshaft pulleys back so woodruff key is at 11 o'clock (ish) and dot on cam pulley is 1 tooth (ish) before the arrow with injection pump in correct position. Now the engine runs fine with no smoke. They only thing I can think of is that the boss on the injection pump shaft isn't set correctly so it looks like the pump will have to go to an injection specialist. I'm sure the boss hasn't moved whilst doing the job as the timing was previously in this position with old belt. I know the vehicle has had 3 reconditoned injection pumps fitted in the last 5-6 years so maybe something went wrong then? Has anybody else come accros this? Thanks for your help. Mark

Wouldn't start at all this time - timing obviously way out. Had another fiddle and set timing by eye to what is was before I changed belt ie. with FIP timing pin in the crank key was just before the twelve o'clock position and grove in flywheel not even visible. Engine now runs much better, smoother and no smoke although I've only tested it for a few seconds as timing case is still off. I think this confirms there is a timing issue but how do I set the timing right if its wrong when everything is in the correct place? If you see what I mean! Mark

Thanks Les, Will wait till the morning and give the engine a try. Mark

Have backed off the FIP pulley by 1 tooth which seems to be the position it started in. About to start the engine for a few seconds without the timing case on, will this do any harm? Is it possible to rebuild an engine with the timing marks set wrongly? The engine was rebuilt a few years ago and the timing belt hasn't been looked at since. Mark

Before I took off the old belt the FIP timing pin wouldn't fit in with the pin locked in the grove in the flywheel housing. That is why I changed the timing. I've just backed the FIP pulley off by 1 tooth to see if its any better (the pin won't quite fit which is how it was before). I'm about to start it up. Do you think it will be OK without the timing cover on if it's only run for a few seconds? Is it possible to rebuild an engine in such a way that the timing is out even with pump, cam and cranks aligned? Thanks Mark

Yeah the centre nut on the FIP pulley came loose accidentally as it wasn't very tight. Tightened it back up straight away and didn't see anything move. Hope this isn't the cause of the problem as I can't find any reference to it any of my manuals. Just confused as to how it can run so badly with everything lined up perfectly. Just stripped off the cover and cam pulley dot is also dead on the arrow with FIP and flywheel timing pins in. Mark Mark

Also had the gearstick rattle but it was fairly obvious. Thread in gear knob was so worn I had to 'glue' it with silicone. Mark