Marks 110

No. I haven't bothered with the fan for a few years (apart from the pyranees trip). I'll put the fan and cowling back on and road test tomorrow although I wouldn't have thought it would make much difference unless the vehicle was stationary. Never noticed any difference when I took it off either. Was just looking to get a couple of extra mpg. Might be worth changing the temp sender, would be interesting to see if it makes any difference. Mark

Just been out and checked, fins are all intact and should be as rad was re-cored about 4 years ago. As far as I can recall my temp used to sit just under halfway and never move even when driving through over the pyrenees in 30 degree plus heat. Mark

Yeah for the sake of a few quid I might try the 82 deg or maybe look into a more accurate gauge. At the risk of sounding a bit dumb what does VDO stand for. The only warning sign I got before the head gasket going was the gauge going virtually to the red in before it backed off a bit as the thermostat opened. This happen for a few weeks until the thing eventually went up in smoke. I'm not doubting Western either but it certainly feels a bit uncomfortable with the gauge past half way during high speed driving. Mark

If its drums on the rear are they properly adjusted? This has caused me some braking problems in the past - ecessive travel at pedal. IIRC it is also possible to fit the shoes wrong way around. I think theres a leading edge and trailing edge but not 100% sure. Mark

Cheers I'll check the stat. I only repaced it a couple of months ago as I thought it may be causing the problem. However when I tested them in a pan of water brought slowly to the boil the old stat opened up slightly before the new one although they were both marked 88 deg. Can't remember now if it had that bleed thing or not but I'll check. The needle sits just past half way when driving, a little too close to the red for comfort. I have no fan but I don't suppose it makes any difference whilst moving. Mark

I'm not sure if it is the U.J's (sounds like it might be something else) but its easy to tell from under the vehicle. Try turning the prop by hand or use a large screwdriver and any play will soon become evident. Also check the sliding joint on the prop. Mine had worn splines, the only remedy is a new prop, not too expensive though and comes complete with U.J's. When seperating any parts make sure you mark them first so they can be put back in exactly the same alignment, otherwise the prop may become unbalanced indicated by a rumbling noise at certain speeds. (I know this from experience!) Mark

So you wouln't be worried if the temp sat just past halfway? To be honest I've never had a lot of heat anyway, my mates 110 is certainly a lot warmer. Cheers mark

Head was skimmed but valve recess was still ok (slightly over actually) as last time I had the head off I'd been a bit too agressive when lapping the valves in (someone told me to do it with a cordless drill and I regretted it!). What would be the consequences of excessive valve recesses - lower compressions? I'm sure that the performance wasn't as good afterwards. Injectors were recon items only 14 months ago but I wonder if one could have been damaged by water in the bore. To be honest I've not been that happy with the recon injectors they didn't seem to make any difference, worse if anything. The main reason I changed them was that Turners said that incorrect spray patterns was a cause of head gasket failure. I'd booked the 110 in at a local 'diesel specialist' 6 months earlier who claimed the injectors were 'baked' in the head and that he'd have to take the head off to get em out for testing. He still charged me £50 labour for attempting to get the injectors out with a slide hammer. So when it came to stripping down the head I was expecting all sorts of trouble. As it happened a slight turn with a small adjustable and they all slid straight out, the lying b.....d! Thats why I wondered if anyone new anywhere reputable to get them tested. Maybe I'll try an 82 degree stat I'm pretty sure the Haynes manual recommends it anyway. Cheers Mark

Yeah I'll get the injectors checked, there's a bit of black smoke under acceleration which I guess is also a sign of overfueling. Don't suppose anyone knows where to take them in the Lincolnshire area or is it best to send them away? Went out on a short journey today and ran Ok, no sign of sparks and knocking noise not apparent although engine didn't even get up to temp. Thanks for your suggestions Mark

I thought that as well but the vanes on the impeller look fine. There's a small amount of play but I don't think it's excessive. I'm not sure if the knock is more of a loose bearing type noise. Could have damaged something when the head gasket went, there must have been some excessive force within the engine as one of the pushrods was bent, possibly caused by coolant in the bores? Mark

This 'plus gas' sounds alright, what is it and where can you buy it? Mark

Yes I checked the height of the pistons and selected the corresponding gasket - turned out to be the same as was already on - 3 hole. Will try driving it again today and see if sparks continue. Wonder if it was just buring off some muck or soot deposits?

Almost given up hope but I'll give that site a try. Cheers Mark

After replacing the head gasket and sorting out a couple of problems (missing injector washer and pushrod not located correctly). I thought I'd sorted it. It now seems to have developed a noise coming from the manifold side of the engine. Sounds like a heavy knock at idle which becomes more high pitched as revs increase. Then last night driving home in the dark I thought I'd try going flat out a up steep incline. Went fairly well (doesn't seem to lack much power) and temp gauge sits just past half way once warmed up. However much to my horror I could now see sparks being emitted out of the exhaust. This carried on for a couple of minutes and now seems to have cleared, I noticed the car following kept a respectable distance! I no expert with engines so does anybody know what might cause this, I presume it's not a good sign! Mark

Just removed the rocker gear and checked the pushrods were positioned correctly. No visible damage to slides either. Replaced rocker gear and reset valve clearances. Then as if by magic smoke disappears, (well almost, a bit of black on hard acceleration but its always done that) thanks Les. However I can still hear this chuffing noise and eventually worked out its coming out of No.3 injecter. Took it out only to find no copper washer, so had a look at parts left over from head gasket job and sure enough there was one new injector washer left over - whoops! I didn't read your reply until after working this out but you were right! Anyway thats now sorted and feeling pretty chuffed took her out for a drive to fill up with diesel. I could then hear a knocking noise that seems to be coming from the manifold side of the engine. Next thing after filling up, by now its dark, I look behind and there's sparks coming out of the exhaust. I'm no expert on engines but I'm pretty sure this isn't a good sign. Anyway by the time I got home the sparks had receded but this knocking nosie definately wasn't there before. What else can I check, tried to pinpoint the noise with a mechanis stethascope but no luck as yet. Thanks Mark

I'll take the rocker gear off this morning and check the push rods again. How would I know if the cam follower was broken? Did your engine show similar symptoms?

Yes I checked the other pushrods which seemed straight. Whats the best way of making sure the pushrods are seated correctly? I think there ok I made sure the tops were engaged with the rocker arms as I tightened the rocker bolts. Could the timing have been affected? I haven't altered anything I don't think. Is there a way of checking without removing the timing case and pulley etc

Replaced the head gasket on my 200tdi after it gave up a few weeks ago and started to burn water (gasket had blown through from no.3 cylinder to to one of the triangular shaped coolant passageways). Also replaced one of the pushrods which was bent. After putting it all back together its obvious something is wrong. Lots of smoke at low speeds, white and blue which clears as revs increase although then it also kicks out a bit of black smoke for good measure. The engine also sounds lumpy (as though it could be running on three cylinders) lack of power also evident, although as revs increase it seems to pick up. Then there's the noise - almost a chuffing sound at tickover which at full revs sounds more metallic as though a valve is going to shoot through the head. could it be a broken ring? I guess something must have gone wrong to have bent one of the pushrods. I realise it could be almost anything but would appreciate ideas on what to check next. Head was skimmed and valve clearances reset by the way. Any help much appreciated Mark

Cheers, Just checked on the database but it is not recognised. There is a number to ring so I'll try it, they might be able to give me more info. Anybody got one for sale?

I'd like to trace the whereabouts of my old series 3 registration OAD953W. I traded it in for my current vehicle (defender 110) about 8 years ago and fear it may have been broken for spares although it was in good condition with an mot. Any ideas on how to track it down much appreciated, or even better does anybody know its whereabouts? if it still exists. Anyway the fact is I'd quite like to get hold of a series 3 again. Must be an origional station wagon with safari roof and split rear door. (Not sure what the're called but my old one had a drop down tailgate and the top half swung up and was held by a couple of struts). It would be great to find out what happened to OAD953W, I knew I'd regret trading her in but at the time was desperate for the cash. Of course the dream scenario is to get her back one day, a very long shot I know!

Sorry bit of novice when it comes to GPS and mapping software. Wonder if you could help. Was looking at getting a garmin gps for walking etc. Am I right in thinking this will link up to my laptop with the correct software. I'd like to use O.S. type maps if possible. Any idea how much the software would be? I presume the gps links up via a usb type cable?

Glad you're ok. I think I'll look into getting myself a cage! We normally take the landy to France in the summer loaded up with 4 canoes on the roof which makes it top heavy and a rollover much more likely. Dread to think of the outcome on a twisty Pyranean descent. mark

If you've got a spare head I'd be interested Craig. Having mine skimmed today but the pitting is quite deep so i'm not that confident it will last much longer and will change it if I can come across a better one. Also a mate of mine runs a 200tdi 110 with suspected head problems so he's looking for a spare as well. Send us a PM when your ready to get rid if you like. Mark

Measured the piston protusion today seems to be pretty even max about 0.72mm min about 0.58 so I reckon the conrods are OK wahat do you think? The engine seems to turn freely enough. Is there any way of ckecking the wear of pistons/ bores. The engine uses a fair bit of oil but a lot of it seems to be blown back into the air flter via the crankcase breather. Mark

Yeah after checking the technical thread that makes sense. Any thoughts on how to check the turbo? Cheers for your help. I'll check the piston protusion tomorrow, I guess this will also show if the conrods are bent. Thanks again Mark