IanT90

Sadly I don't think I have the heart to put all the work, time and money into restoring another land rover, just to have some low life take it away again. The really sad part is I don't want to go back to a car, but it's the only sensible option now. Thanks for all the comments and support happy motoring. Regards Ian

Only decent picture I could lay my hands on. worst part was it was taken off the drive and I was asleep in bed, my wife heard it start up thought it was me going to work at first then realised I was still asleep at the side of her so woke me up. By the time I got up and went to the window it was gone. Heard nothing from the police although it only took me 10 minutes to get through and report it. Had a steering lock on but that didn't stop them, no broken glass either so obviously came prepared and was taken to order. Gutted I have spent a fortune on it as well as all the man hours. Thanks for the replies don't expect I will see it again. question is now how long the insurance will take to sort it all out. Back to cycling to work for the next month or so :-(

Just a message to let you know by beloved vehicle was stolen in the early hours. I don't expect to get it back judging by other peoples experiences. Decided I won't be getting another Land Rover either, too much of a risk of the same happening again sadly it's time to give up. Regards Ian T

Motorcycle Car Brake Bleeder Clutch One Way Valve &Tube Tool Bleed Bleeding Kit £3.94 on Ebay Regards Ian

I purchased a cheap system not that long ago to allow me to bleed my brakes alone. Works amazingly well and will work on the clutch too. The device is a simple one way valve with a pipe connected to each end. One fits on the bleed nipple the other in a jar or container. Once connected you simply open the bleed nipple and then start pumping the brake or clutch pedal, as it's a one way valve once you stop pumping fluid flow stops, you can have a look for any bubbles. Only snag is you have to keep topping up the reservoir particularly when bleeding brakes. Other than that it works great completely bled my brakes on all four wheels and it took me less than 20 mins to do the job. Best part is it cost less than £5 on ebay.

neil110 Where abouts in the country did this friend live ? want to make sure I avoid going there ! To go through that collection of anti theft devices they must have wanted the beast pretty badly, maybe they needed something to tow the other neighbours boat ? In my biker days heard of a guy who locked his prized Yamaha R1 in his garage, used high tensile steel chain chain to bolt it to the concrete floor, alarm on the doors and windows and parked his car in front of the door. Got up one morning got in his car and thought something felt wrong, so opened garage door and bike was gone ! They had taken the roof off his garage and lifted it out, amazing the ingenuity these people have pity they don't put it to use in legitimate jobs. Anyway as was quoted previously if they want it badly enough, they will take it no matter how many anti theft devices you fit. Just got to make it harder for them as the more time it takes them to steal it the more chance they have of getting caught. Personally I like the idea of a motion detector that way as soon as it moves vertical or horizontally the alarm will trigger, just got to make sure it operates from a separate hidden battery. That way if they cut the battery power lead it still triggers.

Thought the screw method was a bit over kill, I have used a screw driver to lever oil seals out before. Fortunately I have 2 pullers - a 2 prong and 3 prong so spoilt for choice there. Obviously the guy's in the videos either don't have pullers or just like over complicating the job ! Cheers guy's

I have oil leaks from both prop shafts so planning to replace both flanges and seals in coming months. Watched a couple of videos recently and a common trick/technique for removing the seal is to drill a hole (or 2), then screw a self tapper in and use it to pull the seal out. I was wondering, never having done one before, can you use a puller by fitting it in the gap between oil seal and pinion shaft and use that to extract it ? Not sure if there is sufficient space to get the puller legs in ? Or is there a better way ?

I have a 300TDI 1995 and it has bearings top and bottom on the new swivel, as did the original that's why I used the one shot.

You don't need to use EP90 in the swivels ! I replaced my NS swivel, swivel seal, bearings and oil seal etc about 18 month ago and I used the one shot grease system. Works fine swivel seal still in good condition, swivel well lubricated Teflon coating not showing any signs of wear (yet !). Some recommend leaving out the oil seal otherwise you effectively run a dry system. However, I did fit the oil seal so packed the bearings and CV with plenty of grease. Had it all apart last week to check the bearings etc and it was fine. I cleaned the bearings up re-packed with new grease. Suppose it's personal preference which method you use, I had watched a couple of you tube video's which used the one shot grease system so followed those examples. As for EP90 in the diff's and transfer box I just paid £16 for 5 litres so it's not that expensive (well I thought it was cheap) and that was from a local motor factor ?

Never considered that side of it before just a pub yarn I remembered, I only thought of it from an anti theft point of view never considered safety implications. However, being a manually operated valve if it failed in closed position he wouldn't be able to drive off (brakes locked on) and conversely if it failed in the open position he wouldn't have his anti theft system ? If it was an electrically operated valve that's another matter.

Ah you read my mind Mo, that was my original plan to buy a cheap set of multi size rings and find one that was a good fit. My only concern was that I ended up forking out £5 for a kit with 255 variations and none where suitable ? The kit I have in mind has both 15 and 20 mm diameter rings so will select the one with the thickest wall and use a touch of silicone for good measure. Thanks for the info guys much appreciated.

Been debating for a while whether or not to fit an FIA switch but probably won't now after reading above. All this talk about anti-theft devices reminded me of a story I heard. Many years ago when I had my old series 2A a mate of mine told me of a cunning trick that someone he new had fitted to his Land Rover. He cut into his brake pipe then re-routed it into his seat box and put in a shut off valve. When ever he parked somewhere dodgy he would lift out his seat base to gain access to the valve, then depress his brake pedal and turn the valve so locking the brakes. Clever idea, don't know exactly how the guy configured it as I got this tale by word of mouth. Would stop someone wheeling or towing it away unless they figured out the system. However, if it's hoisted onto a low loader from a static position then it's not going to impact a theft.

This question has probably been asked a hundred times, but does anyone know the correct dimensions of the rubber 'O' ring used on the cyclone breather ? Thought I would go for the cheaper option of buying in bulk off eBay, plenty of sets available at good prices. Then I looked up the dimensions through google and ended up scratching my head, there are different sizes offered depending which aftermarket supplier you go for ? with the same part number LO100000. There is: 0.2 X 2.2 X 2.2 and 0.5 X 1.5 X 1.0 ? assume smallest value is the thickness ? but the other values don't make sense unless it's just me going simple in my old age. I know easy solution is to take off the original and measure it, but leaking quite bad as it is at the moment. I think might be a good idea to seal the O ring in with silicon when I replace it.

Interestingly I got an email today from Britcar which says they are providing a 3 year warranty on all their Bearmach branded products ! To be honest if I buy aftermarket parts I make it a point to always buy Bearmach with exception of bearings/critical parts and brake pads. Usually very good quality and fraction of cost of OEM parts. Ian