IanT90

Sadly I don't think I have the heart to put all the work, time and money into restoring another land rover, just to have some low life take it away again. The really sad part is I don't want to go back to a car, but it's the only sensible option now. Thanks for all the comments and support happy motoring. Regards Ian

Only decent picture I could lay my hands on. worst part was it was taken off the drive and I was asleep in bed, my wife heard it start up thought it was me going to work at first then realised I was still asleep at the side of her so woke me up. By the time I got up and went to the window it was gone. Heard nothing from the police although it only took me 10 minutes to get through and report it. Had a steering lock on but that didn't stop them, no broken glass either so obviously came prepared and was taken to order. Gutted I have spent a fortune on it as well as all the man hours. Thanks for the replies don't expect I will see it again. question is now how long the insurance will take to sort it all out. Back to cycling to work for the next month or so :-(

Just a message to let you know by beloved vehicle was stolen in the early hours. I don't expect to get it back judging by other peoples experiences. Decided I won't be getting another Land Rover either, too much of a risk of the same happening again sadly it's time to give up. Regards Ian T

Motorcycle Car Brake Bleeder Clutch One Way Valve &Tube Tool Bleed Bleeding Kit £3.94 on Ebay Regards Ian

I purchased a cheap system not that long ago to allow me to bleed my brakes alone. Works amazingly well and will work on the clutch too. The device is a simple one way valve with a pipe connected to each end. One fits on the bleed nipple the other in a jar or container. Once connected you simply open the bleed nipple and then start pumping the brake or clutch pedal, as it's a one way valve once you stop pumping fluid flow stops, you can have a look for any bubbles. Only snag is you have to keep topping up the reservoir particularly when bleeding brakes. Other than that it works great completely bled my brakes on all four wheels and it took me less than 20 mins to do the job. Best part is it cost less than £5 on ebay.

neil110 Where abouts in the country did this friend live ? want to make sure I avoid going there ! To go through that collection of anti theft devices they must have wanted the beast pretty badly, maybe they needed something to tow the other neighbours boat ? In my biker days heard of a guy who locked his prized Yamaha R1 in his garage, used high tensile steel chain chain to bolt it to the concrete floor, alarm on the doors and windows and parked his car in front of the door. Got up one morning got in his car and thought something felt wrong, so opened garage door and bike was gone ! They had taken the roof off his garage and lifted it out, amazing the ingenuity these people have pity they don't put it to use in legitimate jobs. Anyway as was quoted previously if they want it badly enough, they will take it no matter how many anti theft devices you fit. Just got to make it harder for them as the more time it takes them to steal it the more chance they have of getting caught. Personally I like the idea of a motion detector that way as soon as it moves vertical or horizontally the alarm will trigger, just got to make sure it operates from a separate hidden battery. That way if they cut the battery power lead it still triggers.

Thought the screw method was a bit over kill, I have used a screw driver to lever oil seals out before. Fortunately I have 2 pullers - a 2 prong and 3 prong so spoilt for choice there. Obviously the guy's in the videos either don't have pullers or just like over complicating the job ! Cheers guy's

I have oil leaks from both prop shafts so planning to replace both flanges and seals in coming months. Watched a couple of videos recently and a common trick/technique for removing the seal is to drill a hole (or 2), then screw a self tapper in and use it to pull the seal out. I was wondering, never having done one before, can you use a puller by fitting it in the gap between oil seal and pinion shaft and use that to extract it ? Not sure if there is sufficient space to get the puller legs in ? Or is there a better way ?

I have a 300TDI 1995 and it has bearings top and bottom on the new swivel, as did the original that's why I used the one shot.

You don't need to use EP90 in the swivels ! I replaced my NS swivel, swivel seal, bearings and oil seal etc about 18 month ago and I used the one shot grease system. Works fine swivel seal still in good condition, swivel well lubricated Teflon coating not showing any signs of wear (yet !). Some recommend leaving out the oil seal otherwise you effectively run a dry system. However, I did fit the oil seal so packed the bearings and CV with plenty of grease. Had it all apart last week to check the bearings etc and it was fine. I cleaned the bearings up re-packed with new grease. Suppose it's personal preference which method you use, I had watched a couple of you tube video's which used the one shot grease system so followed those examples. As for EP90 in the diff's and transfer box I just paid £16 for 5 litres so it's not that expensive (well I thought it was cheap) and that was from a local motor factor ?

Never considered that side of it before just a pub yarn I remembered, I only thought of it from an anti theft point of view never considered safety implications. However, being a manually operated valve if it failed in closed position he wouldn't be able to drive off (brakes locked on) and conversely if it failed in the open position he wouldn't have his anti theft system ? If it was an electrically operated valve that's another matter.

Ah you read my mind Mo, that was my original plan to buy a cheap set of multi size rings and find one that was a good fit. My only concern was that I ended up forking out £5 for a kit with 255 variations and none where suitable ? The kit I have in mind has both 15 and 20 mm diameter rings so will select the one with the thickest wall and use a touch of silicone for good measure. Thanks for the info guys much appreciated.

Been debating for a while whether or not to fit an FIA switch but probably won't now after reading above. All this talk about anti-theft devices reminded me of a story I heard. Many years ago when I had my old series 2A a mate of mine told me of a cunning trick that someone he new had fitted to his Land Rover. He cut into his brake pipe then re-routed it into his seat box and put in a shut off valve. When ever he parked somewhere dodgy he would lift out his seat base to gain access to the valve, then depress his brake pedal and turn the valve so locking the brakes. Clever idea, don't know exactly how the guy configured it as I got this tale by word of mouth. Would stop someone wheeling or towing it away unless they figured out the system. However, if it's hoisted onto a low loader from a static position then it's not going to impact a theft.

This question has probably been asked a hundred times, but does anyone know the correct dimensions of the rubber 'O' ring used on the cyclone breather ? Thought I would go for the cheaper option of buying in bulk off eBay, plenty of sets available at good prices. Then I looked up the dimensions through google and ended up scratching my head, there are different sizes offered depending which aftermarket supplier you go for ? with the same part number LO100000. There is: 0.2 X 2.2 X 2.2 and 0.5 X 1.5 X 1.0 ? assume smallest value is the thickness ? but the other values don't make sense unless it's just me going simple in my old age. I know easy solution is to take off the original and measure it, but leaking quite bad as it is at the moment. I think might be a good idea to seal the O ring in with silicon when I replace it.

Interestingly I got an email today from Britcar which says they are providing a 3 year warranty on all their Bearmach branded products ! To be honest if I buy aftermarket parts I make it a point to always buy Bearmach with exception of bearings/critical parts and brake pads. Usually very good quality and fraction of cost of OEM parts. Ian

Funny you should say that as the cyclone outlet is also covered in oil too good job you mentioned it. I am convinced it has an 'o' ring in place as I only replaced it a couple of years back, how often do you need to replace them ? Didn't expect that much leakage to be emanating from the cyclone as it doesn't appear a major leak ? Although it is situated right above the vacuum pump so makes sense. My next question was going to be which vacuum pump do I go for ? OEM Wabco one's apparently are not that reliable ! would the after market version be okay. However, if the leak is from my cyclone then the answer is hypothetical at this stage. Cheers Mo

Cheers for that will add to my list, planning to top up the transfer and diffs with oil first see what impact that has. If no impact on noise will change the gearbox oil see if that has an impact. Next job when I eventually get a day off work (some time in March), I plan to replace both front and back diff flanges and oil seals as both are leaking (So can check the UJ's then). Next job is to track down the leak on the transfer box (if I can find it ?). I then need to replace my brake vacuum pump leaking oil all over the engine. Finally I will take a look at refurbishing the UJ's. Cheers for the info.

Thought I would start a fresh thread as changing the gearbox oil isn't really an appropriate heading. Finally managed to get underneath and have a look and wish I hadn't, oil everywhere: Starting with the engine, which seems to be coming from the vacuum pump and dropping onto everything below so hard to tell whats engine and whats front diff leak. There is no play as far as I can see with the propshaft UJS (good news), although there is a clunking noise from the transfer box as I rotate the front prop. There is also a fair bit of oil at each end at the propshaft/diff joints (front is difficult to tell how bad, as engine oil is all over it anyway). Finally I do have a leak on my transfer box but would be surprised if it's got low enough to cause the noise I am getting. Anyway my first point of attack will be to buy 5 litres of EP90 to top up both the transfer box and rear diff. Not a good time for jobs at the moment, working straight through February non stop without a break so prop shaft seals will have to wait till March. However, I can give up a few hours of sleep to top up the oil and clean everything down. One question is it worth replacing the vacuum pump or just the gasket ?

Sorry I have not replied sooner been off work for couple of days and wife had me doing jobs on the house. So i have not had a chance to check the UJS yet. However, convinced now it's from the transmission. When driving it's noticeable tapping noise when I dip the clutch it goes, starts off more noisey but gets progressively quieter as I drive but never completely disappears. Also noticed gears are starting to become a bit stiff again when I first start off and as with the oil change they get easier the further I drive. Fairly certain I don't have a leak from the gear box would have noticed losing that much oil on my drive etc but low oil could be a possible cause need to drain the box asap and re-fill with my back up oil. Firstly if it was the UJS don't think it would impact the gear changes when gearbox is cold and improve with journey's same with the noise, but I will keep my fingers crossed it is something that simple. How much play would you expect from a union joint in relatively good condition ? In mean time I will back off the hand brake a notch, change the gearbox oil then check the UJS.

That's interesting I adjusted the hand brake travel not to long ago (June as it was an MOT fail), wonder if that its linked ? Not sure if I have carried out the adjustment correctly, tightened was adjuster until no movement then backed off until pads just catching the the drum. The handle adjustment is now about 3 to 4 notches, which is about right. Don't know what else I needed to do ?

TBH not a total loss I am not planning to get rid of the old girl, so would overhaul the old prop at my leisure then have a spare ? As for release bearing had that on my old clutch assembly before it was changed, so kinda know what that sounds like and fairly sure that's not the cause ! This is more like a distinct tapping rather than a rattle and only when under load not really noticeable if I coast with clutch down or idle at lights. Definitely worse at start up just setting off, after about 3 miles it starts to reduce in amplitude and it becomes less prominent after driving for a while, although still there in the background.. .

Problem solved with rubber boot I can get (X4) Neoprene rubber boots with nitrile rubber O rings for £5.95 You can also buy Bearmach replacements (BR0734) pack of X6 for £6.25 but think they are std rubber grade. If anyone wants the dimensions for future reference: Small hole 16mm, Large hole 30mm, Height 26mm. My kit and bush extraction kit arrived today. So will order the Neoprene replacements off eBay and will fit the std rubber one out of the kit, next week probably 10min job. Roll on spring and some warmer weather so I can crack on with some more jobs. Regards Ian

Firstly I have definitely got EP90 in the transfer and originally had MTF 94 in the gearbox. However that appeared initially to be bit to viscous and struggled getting second till the oil warmed up. The grade put in the gearbox after I am not sure about but sure but think it was ATF ? did cure the the gear change issues though. The tapping is only when moving and is audible through the transmission tunnel, that's why assumed gearbox. However, I could be mistaken never considered universal joint on the prop shaft ? Thought the noise was from the engine originally noisey tappets, but when I had the bonnet up the engine actually sounds quite sweet considering its age. That's when I started looking else where for the problem. I kept the MTF 94 oil when it was taken out, so can replace the oil that's in and see if that makes a difference. As for the Prop shaft, I don't have a decent press or garage to work in so replacing universal joints is out. Probably just replace with new starting with the front, whats the difference with heavy duty wide angle versus standard ? Ian

I am definitely getting a tapping noise from my gearbox, although gear changes are still okay and no noticeable difference in performance just this annoying tappet sound coming from the transmission. When I had the gearbox recon done about 15 month ago, I got the transmission specialist to put LR spec oil in. Driving afterwards I was struggling to get second gear until the oil warmed up so took it back. He suggested the grade of oil I supplied was too viscous so recommended an alternative. He put in standard automatic gearbox oil in (Which is what he uses on all the gearboxes he overhauls) and hey presto problem was solved. Wondering if now the new synchro's and gears have now bedded in and if its now worth reverting back to the LR specified oil grade ? Fortunately I kept the spec oil when he switched it over, so can change it back.

I finally found a part number A0408-C Think it's Britpart but Allmakes also do one £1.70 including VAT. Cheers Dave for link on Paddock probably same part as above as it say's aftermarket. I usually get occasional parts from a local Land Rover parts supplier - www.totalparts.co.uk. I sent them an email with the part number see if they can source it, makes life easier as I can drive there and also saves postage. However, the neoprene-y type rubber sounds even better option if I can get hold of one. When my ball joint kit arrives I plan to measure up the rubber gaiter/boot and wondering if I can source a Neoprene version. I am then planning to put the cheap aftermarket rubber gaiter on until the weather improves. I can then replace the full ball joint and fit a better quality rubber boot just in time for my MOT in June. Thanks for all the advice appreciated. Ian