Glue

Leaf or similar stuck over one of the sensors? A friend of mine had a cheapo solution on her disco, that detected the tow ball beautifully

I've just seen these advertised on the book of face...

I can claim I spent £65k on a project, whether I did is another matter...

In the past I've drilled them out and retapped to M4(?). The grub screws were then replaced with BZP hex head set screws. It's not ideal from a cosmetic point of view, but I found it easier to torque the bolts up than faffing round with a (tiny) allen key. HTH

As Ross has said, powercons are great connectors but... They are only rated for 16A (@240v ac), and do not have any current breaking capacity. This means they should only be used to connect isolated circuits. It's relatively easy to get the connectors to arc over and ultimately weld themselves together when mated/unmated live. Given their use in a 12v situation where the potential current draw is generally higher than mains this becomes even more likely. If you were determined to work with them then I'd be looking at the Powercon True1 TOP series, which are rated for 16A WITH breaking capacity and also IP65 which is a bonus when in a landrover. Generally I'd avoid using mains rated connectors for 12v applications, I work in the events power industry where the potential for somebody to plug a 240v supply into a 12v circuit (and thus destroying it) would be too great. I have seen Neutrik's "Speakon" used for low voltage work, They are a 40A rated connector, (again with no breaking capacity), but very unlikely to be found running at 240v. Personally I'd be looking to use Anderson connectors, either SB50s for Powerpoles.

I can't help with the first bit, but if it can make it's way to Coventry then I can get it to Buxton (or thereabouts) next time I head to see my parents. (Obvious timescale restrictions apply etc)

Mine flashes when road conditions are very wet (or I'm wading) and stops when it dries out again. I get used to ignoring it.

I've heard that as "drop it, hump it and lose it" because anything that did get delivered was likely to be f.......

Should I be concerned that the front end looks like a face c/w head light eye balls!?!?!

I work in power distribution for the events industry, powerlocks don't scare me I did use my 110 to "tow" a 600A 3Ph cable set (5 x 240 sq mm) from the generator to the production distro which was 90m away! Low 2 at tickover pulled it out nicely whilst meaning there was plenty of time for my oppo to connect the next set in line.

A 16A Plug should be (roughly) 43mm in diameter (excluding the keying lump), a 32A plug is 57mm. There are also 63A and 125A versions, but by then most people are looking at 3 phase supplies with red connectors!

Your picture is of a 16A 240V connector at 50Hz (ie UK domestic power). In an ideal world each socket would be protected by it's own 16A breaker (Fuse / MCB / RCBO etc). However that gets expensive, quickly, so I wouldn't be too worried by a 20A RCBO protecting a pair of sockets, you simply need to be aware of the loading. 20A is roughly 4.8kW or 6.5 BHP which is clearly a goodly amount of power to be using simultaineously! The power circuit in your house is probably made up using 13A connectors protected by a 32A "Fuse" There is more to circuit protection than simply matching the breaker size to the connector size, you must also consider cable sizing (including voltage drops), construction and installation method (is it surface mounted or buried in insulation etc).

I did (in a 200 TDi 110) keep up with an Elise for 15 or so miles along the A470 through mid Wales a few years ago, and we both get up with the tractor and livestock trailer in front!

Hooray!

Many Thanks Ralph, The mismatch between chassis numbers / corresponding part numbers and the age of the truck was throwing me. Part of the problem is that the truck went through SVO and a civilian contractor before spending 11 years with HM Armed Forces (RAF Mountain Rescue Sevice), being cast and spending a further 10 years with a selection of owners - its a bitsa and I love it.

Evening All, Can somebody confirm if PRC 6290 is the correct loom for my purposes: '99 Defender (VIN ends XA170xxx) with Rear Wash Wipe (Wash Bottle under the bonnet) and Heated Rear Window, NO High Level Brake Light. Wiper motor has the round, white 4 pin connector, as does the end of the loom behind the light cover. Many Thanks. Glue

I have a 99 Defender that came out through Special Vehicles. One of the mods that they made was to fit a split charge system, which is, as far as I can see, the same as the optional extra that was available at the time. Fast forward 20 ish years and it has now failed. All the cabling etc meters out, so I'm assuming that the relay has failed. There are two part numbers listed in all the drawings etc that I can find. Does anybody know the difference between AMR3324 and AMR 3325? Thanks in advance. Glue

But only on his off days!

A few years back I lost the front UJ on the front prop, whilst doing about 60 mph in a 200 TDi 110. I ended up needing to replace the front brake lines, along with some interesting scrapes in the diff casing. As oneandtwo said, several of the spire clips needed replacing and the floor panel and footwell wee never quite the same ever again. I didn't experience any "pole vaulting" but there were certainly scrapes in the tarmac where the flailing prop had hit the road surface. I supose that it is a theoretical risk, I suspect that (certainly on road), the angle of impact and the forward angular momentum of the prop end combined with the relative softness of the road surface mean it is more likely to gouge its way through / skid over the surface, rather than wedging sufficently to cause the rest of the body to over run it / lift. Would the rear UJ, attached to the T Box support the weight / angle / articulation or would it in turn shatter?

So there's potential for some swag with the new logo somewhere about 2025?

New logo looks fab, Thank you @elbekko.

Wrights Auto Supplies in Coventry? Here

Or Tina's Pee?😆

I suspect its Auto Correct Cock Up for "Tek Screw"

Oops, on the upside you're still here to pass on the benefit of your experience to the rest of us.