Glue

Evening all, Now what passed for catastrophic snow in Coventry has gone, I'm left with a problem. The dash gauges start to steam up internally after about 400 yards and are completely unreadable after a mile or so. Tonight I've had to do about 15 miles before they cleared again. Does anyone have any suggestions why this happens and how to solve it, or is just another "landrover thing"? Glue

The last Landy I insulated was done with camping mats and copydex. It lasted for about 2 1/2 years, and I killed the Landy before I had any problems with it coming unstuck. Glue

Not really, took the truck home, charged the battery and it's been good as gold since. The only thing I could think was that some how the battery just decided to spontaneously discharge itself. In turn this caused the altenator to glitch which killed the fuel solenoid. Not the most convincing story, but the best I can come up with. Glue

Glossop. What a lovely part of the world to be in. I grew up spent the first 18 ish years of my life there. Glue

Nobody has right of way, those coming from your left have priority over you, but that is all. (From my next door neighbour who is a driving examiner)

I've also got one in Coventry if its any god to anyone Glue

Sadly its not an ECU issue 'cos I haven't got one! (originally a 2.5TD now 200TDi). Had it been diode failure and hence battery drain I should have expected it to struggle to start in the car park, rather than totally dying after a quarter mile or so. Any other suggestions?, Anyone?

Afternoon All. Yesterday started out like any other. Got up, pottered round, got in Boris, started him up drove round etc. I did this a couple of times through the day. After work last night, I got in, started him up and started to drive home. After about 400 yards I stopped at a set of lights. On pulling away from the lights I lost all electrical power, causing the fuel solenoid to shut and the car to stop. I managed to coast him clear of the junction, where I called the RAC who sent a mechanic. I had no lights, no gauges, nothing, almost as if some one had disconnected the battey. When he arrived he diagnosed a faulty altenator. We jumped a small battery on to the existing to power the beast and then bump started me so I could drive home where he reclaimed his battery and leads and left. When I put my battery on to charge this morning it was showing a terminal voltage of approx 10.4V, which seems very low. What could have caused the voltage to drop so low? My questions are, has anyone else had any thing like this? What cured it? Does the mechanics suggestion sound right, could an alternator fail in such a way as to completely kill all the electrical systems in a vehicle? Answers on a postcard....

Got mine as well. How much did HoFS raise from us?

I've always thought / been told that midges are attracted by the carbon dioxide concentration. The solution's simple. Stop Breathing.

I've always used "Earth Block" from B&Q or similar for the occasions I've needed to do any major commoning like that. Cheap, cheerful and available in a couple of sizes. Glue

Evening all. Hopefully some one can shed some light on my latest problem. I've been out today and had three separate moments when the front end has started shaking violently. In all three cases I've been doing between 40 & 50 mph. Once was uphill, the second was downhill and the third was on the flat. The cause seemed to be when both front wheels hit a pot hole or similar at the same time. (ie the edge of a trench across the road etc). The vehicle doesn't seem to lurch from side to side etc, but I felt the shaking through the steering wheel and my passenger was also being shaken so it was a fairly violent and substantial motion. If I slowed using brakes & geatbox to about 25 mph then the symptoms died away and everything was fine, until the next time. Initial examination (in the dark and the rain) shows nothing amiss, butsomething is clearly wrong. The fact that it had to have welding just behind the radius arm attachments for the MOT on Tuesday may, or may not be relevent. Can anyone suggest what may be the problem. Glue Edited 2230 on 16/8 to add further detail.

Is that the cse for all 110 CSWs. I'm trying to sort out the 2nd row belts in mine which was built late 83 / early 84. The belts that were in it had the reels "upside down" ie the belt exits downwards directly to the buckle. Sadly I can't find this type, I'm now trying to work out how to fit the more usual type where the belt exits upwards. Any ideas how these should be mounted. Any help is muchly appreciated. Glue

When I fitted mine I did it with piggy back spade crimps, so that one side of the crimp fed the wiper motor, the other side had the conventional (stalk) control and the PCB feeds on. Easy to insulate, remove etc. Glue

How critical is the material, If you're desperate for cast iron then I can't help, but I used to have a fibre glass mould for a post box that I aquired from a theatre scenery workshop on the basis it might be useful... If you're interested I can have an attempt to dig it out and see if it's still useable.

Indeed, some of us won't get any time off over Christmas since we're working to keep the rest of the world entertained!!

Crimp tools or more acurately lugging tools when used at this size / scale can very often be borrowed or hired from your local electrical wholesaler. It's always worth asking for a freebie, especially if you can take your vehicle to them, buy the crimps / lugs from them and then assemble them in the car park so you're not taking it away from potential paying customers. Glue

If its RG58 you want then drop me a line, I'm sure I've got the remains of a drum knocking round somewhere. I'm sure (if I can find it) I can stick some in the post for a small fee. HTH Glue

Bummer! Sorry to hear the sad news of any one's truck dying. At least you're still here to tell us what happened. Glue

Evening all, Just been scratching my head for a few days about this one, what does the voltmeter actually measure? (No prizes for saying volts) Where does it actually measure the voltage, and what does it take as the zero reference. I assume that it measures terminal voltage accross the battery, but if thats the case shouldn't I see some movement when I switch all the lights etc on, or is this another example of Landrover supplying gauges that don't do much (if anything)?!?!? Regards to all Glue

Whilst fitting the (excellent) Mud Stuff dash to my beasty, I came across a connector located behind the clock. I've scoured the (limited) wiring diagrams I have, but can't track it down. It's a rubber block for bullet connectors, 2 wide and 3 deep. Its populated thus:- Purple White Light Green Light Green with White Tracer Dark Green DarkGreen All the ways appear to have two wires into them. Can any one tell me what its for, currently the clock runs on the purple way so that must be an unswitched +12v feed. Any ideas what the rest do. This is all in a 1984 One Ten, originally with a 19J engine but retrofitted with 200TDi if that makes a difference. Ta Murky Glue

Mine's known as Boris Carlot. Like most Landies it's a bit of a Frankenstein's monster!

Me? I'm a freelance rigger & stage lighting engineer. Mostly working in theatre but do the odd job in the glorious rock 'n' roll industry as well. Before that I was a student of Chemical Engineering, but packed it in since it was dull. Glue

I believe that Foley Special Vehicles do them under their "Rhino" brand name. HTH Glue

Having looked at the Dixon-Bate site the other day, new ones are supllied with 8.8 grade M12 set screws or bolts. Mine however was bolted on with some strange UNF size. I believe that it is quite acceptable to use M12 to replace the old UNF bolts. Glue