Allan Soffientini

Hello everybody, This question has been posted already on the Defer section, but until now, noboby has the answer. I'm going to try again here, hoping someone can help! I've a Ninety wich has been fitted with series door almost two years ago, the tops, bought new from Brit..., are now rusting with bubbles appearing on the paint . So my plan is to buy good aluminium ones from Rocky Mountain as this seems to be a "fit and forgive" upgrade. Easy job it seems, but I'm a bit concerned about interior door trim: now a standard series kit from Exmoor has been fitted, and the top panel has a bent at the top that hooks on the glass channel and is secured with two screws at the lower end. So the question is: since on Rocky tops both glasses slide, is still possible to use this kind of interiror trim, or there is not enought space on the glass channel to hook the trim? Perhaps this is a question for the series section, but I hope someone can help! Thanks Allan

Tanks Boris, I've seen the original LR ones, and they seems very good, possibily even better than the ones from RM. Sadly, in this case, I'm quite sure the original door trim can't be re used since there is no space to hook the top panel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFA_wHh5bqM I've sent an email to RM, but they are on Holiday until October 15th, so hope someone can help Allan

Hello everybody, Long time has passed since my last post on this forum, although I read it almost daily (since I'm italian, it's a very good way to learn proper english too...) I've a Ninety wich has been fitted with series door almost two years ago, the tops, bought new from Brit..., are now rusting with bubbles appearing on the paint . So my plan is to buy good aluminium ones from Rocky Mountain as this seems to be a "fit and forgive" upgrade. Easy job it seems, but I'm a bit concerned about interior door trim: now a standard series kit from Exmoor has been fitted, and the top panel has a bent at the top that hooks on the glass channel and is secured with two screws at the lower end. So the question is: since on Rocky tops both glasses slide, is still possible to use this kind of interiror trim, or there is not enought space on the glass channel to hook the trim? Perhaps this is a question for the series section, but I hope someone can help! Thanks Allan

Thank You! I'll buy a lot of seals.... Anyway I've heard about a T seal fitting tool, it works like a guide, and maybe worth the money... or not? Thanks Allan

Hello everybody, One more oil leak.... I'm looking for a sound advice to stop an engine oil leak between the sump and the bellhousing of my 1985 N/A Ninety (oil running down the bellhousing). Sourcing this forum I've found that the cork T seals at the edges of the main bearing cap need to be renewed along with the sump seal; so can someone tell me if is possible to replace them with the engine in place, unbolting the sump and removing the two bolts holding the bearing cap and the cap itself? Alternatively, in an old post, someone suggested to remove the sump and compress a bit the exposed edge of the cork to fill the empty space that let the oil to escape and then seal it with istant gesket. Has someone else used this trick before? Thank you very much in advance Bye from Italy Allan

Hi Jbs, it's 2.5 NAD, built in 1985. Thanks Allan

Hello everybody I think I need some help from you all... The core plug at the back of my engine, precisely the big one on the block, has been leaking a little for three or four years now, just one or two drops on the garage floor from time to time. Now the leaking is becoming more consistent, and, even if the 90 is driveable, I'm scared to lose all the coolant on the road. Situation is becoming more serious since a trip from Italy to Yorkshire has been planned, starting on 12th July, so something has to be done! So the question is: Is it possible to replace the core leaving the engine in situ? As all you know, space is very tight, but, perhaps there is someone out there which can give me a sound advice! Thank a lot! Allan

A mate pressed the ball joint out of my 90 using a 20 t press and was an hard job. Impressed to read about people doing this work only with heat , vice and hammer; perhaps mine was very hard due to old age and a bit of rust.

Daily 4x4 are quite common here in Italy. Very good van in my opinion: ex ENEL (italin electrical national company) are easy to find and in good order, generally for sale at 5-7000€. I've even seen some UAZ 452 (van) around, they are both 2.1 and 2.5 naturally aspirated diesel (Peugeot) or petrol (original russian engine); they were imported directly in Italy since 1998. Czech Republic used them for years as ambulance, radio and general service; a sovietic 101 FC without V8 engine, fulltime 4x4 and much more! http://www.mortarinvestments.eu/list.php?t...jeep&page=1 If I had to have a van, I would buy a 101

OK Lesson learned! Reassembled it this morning and no, I don't used an hammer Thank you very much everybody! Allan

JOB DONE!!!!!!!! Thank you again everybody As Hybrid from hell wrote, I refitted the two long bolt holding the upper link, then hammered the nut at the end of the ball joint just two times, gently and the joint popped out whitout any fuss... Fantastic! Now the assembly is at a local garage to have the new joint pressed in. Any particular advice for refitting (please don't tell me is reverse of desmalting... )????

Thanks Tomorrow morning I will try again following your advices. I hope good luck this time! Perhaps heat and a big hammer is the key for the success Down here in Milan is 35°C, will be a very hot morning... I will let you know Bye

Hello everybody. I'm writing from Italy, in search of a good advice to replace the rear a frame ball joint in my 2.5 nad ninety. Yesterday I removed the two bolts holding the a frame assembly on the link to the chassis, removed the castellated nut and then... then I got stuck trying to remove the old ball joint from the axle. I know an hydraulic press has to be used in order to extract/refit the ball joint from the upper link, but failed to consider how hard removing it from the axle can be! The ball joint is gone: the rubber gaitor is as hard as paper and the joint rotates freely at 360°, but can not be removed. I think (and hope) that by holding the joint in a big mole grip, it can be rotated and discarded, but I have no time to give it a try. Please, HELP me! Thank you Allan

1985 naturally aspirated 2.5 diesel Ninety. 221.500kms done, but new speedo showing 2500 Original engine and gearbox, but jumping out of reverse gear...

Hello, remember to change front suspensions too. The ones at driver's side are a bit stiffer than the others. Conversions from RHD to LHD are common here in Italy on imported vehicles, is a big job, but worth if you are planning to keep the Land for a long time. Ciao