bobrick

hi folks im progressing well with my rebuild of my series 2 in between welding up the bulkhead im tackling other bits and pieces. engine clean and repaint being one of them. i have a query regarding the distributor. the engine in question is not the original engine. serial number starts 901 making it a series 3, 8:1 cr 3 bearing petrol. i have already found out the carb is not correct and someone on here already identified it as an SU. looking at the distributor now the number on the distributor is 40817A which makes it a lucas DM2 according to their data sheets. is this the correct item for this engine, and when i take it off to clean the engine, is it worh keeping it or replacing it with the later 25D or 45D. which looks like the one you can get from paddoks. ideally i want to keep the truck as original as possible but with the engine not being the original one for this truck im considering changing the dymo ofr an alternator and installing electronic ignition just to improve the driveability i welcome your opinions cheers will

just thought i would post a few pics of the repair so far, only a liittle bit left to do now and a lick of paint then to source a drain channel.

Rich cheers for the offer of the drain channel even if you have to remove it in sections ill still be interested. i think its just welded along the join at intervals. Please PM me if you have any luck salvaging it. ref the repair, so far all is going well all the rot on the front has been cut out and im in the process of fabricating the repair panels and the backing angles for the repait to sit on. i spent yesterday am building my self a folder with scrap i had lying arround to speed things up a bit so today well see how we go. ill try and get some more pics of repair in process will

cheers for all the input i have since been down the workshop and i can confirm the sengine serial number starts 901 which according to the glencoyne site makes it a series 3, 3 main bearing petrol 2286. ill leave the carb as it is for the moment as it does appear to work. bowie what do you mean by a 1.75" carb is that a new unit or larger needle cheersw for all your help will

cheers for the input guys is the general idea to stick with what is fitted will

thats the problem i am not 100% sure what engine it is i will get the serial number ooff it tomorrow which will hopefully shed some light on the situation

cheers western & robotman i suppose the nest question is is it the correct type, looking at the glencoyne site its not a weber, solex or zenith so i suppose not. i still need to get the number off the block but the initial number has a 7 in it so im leaning towards a 17 prefix block the suffix letter is b i'll have a definate number tomorrow. will all the wiring will be replaced by a new loom from auto sparks

thanks for the replys guys, apart from the rot in the picture the rest of the bulkhead is sound with minor welding required on passengar door pillar. all the rot is concentrated around the drivers side and both of the footwells are sound, but thanks for the ebay link ill keep my eye on that. i thought about folding a piece of steel for the drain channel however i dont know how to get the curve into it whith it folded or fold it after its curved, i will email ashtree and andover bulkhead restorers and see if they may be able to help me out. wrt the carb, it is mounted on a curved spacer (about 6"long). the fuel inlet banjo is closest to the bulkhead, i have had a look at the glencoyne page already but i cant see how it resembles and of the ones in the pictures, i managed to find a picture of it though.

hello everyone i am curently restoring a 1960 series 2 (A Suffix) so far i have managed to get the tub off and repair all the the back end aft of centre cross member and replace the clutch. the bulkhead has been taken of ready for prep and weld however i have a few questions i hope some of you may be able to answer (i have attached a bulkhead picture for you to view) 1. what is the best way to repair/weld around the vents i was planning on welding against a brass block to fill in the holes 2. does any one know where i could get hold of a drain channel that sits on the front of the bulkhead between bulkhead and bonnet. 3. how do i identify the carb, i think it may be a solex but it doesent look exactly like any pictures i can find. and i dont think the engine is original finally i dont think the clutch is set right, when i tested it the slave cylinder blew its piston before the pressure plate was disengaged. when i removed the gearbox i removed the acuating bracket and rod so there may be a chance i refitted it 180 degress out where the actuating rod connects to the release bearing rod (hope that makes sense) ill try and find a picture from a manual later cheers for looking a new bulkhead is not an option will

hi everyone, thanks for looking and ill keep it brief having just got a cheap s2a that needs a lot of work i have been pricing up and come accross a few issues with the fuel tank. (its a swb 88") (A reg i think) the one thats fitted is curved and rounded similar to that of a defender style fuel tank. its not beyond repair however i really dont have the patience or time to repair it. all the fuel tanks i have seen in the parts books both s2 &3 show a square style tank, with what appears to be similar outlets and holes in the top that also look to be in the right place the question i have is are these tanks interchangeable? cheers for looking hope you can help me out this is the one i have. can i fit this one cheers will

hi guys cheers for you advice, i know its been a while but bettter late than never well the upshot of my misdemeaner was that i trashed the timing pump by ripping the alloy casing round the timing pin this in turn tore a chunk of alloy out and exposed the front bearing. i have now learnt my leasson and have manufactured a tool as described in another post ( i dont know why i didnt before). on the good side of things i have managed to source a new pump for £50 bucks (serviceability unknown but ill take a gamble at that price, the seller said it was serviceable). does anybody have any top tips when replacing one of these or is it just a case of fit it then set timing as per the post in the forum and take care when torqing crank bolt (i have a tool for that now) any advice would be greatly recievd cheers will

cheers guys i think i may have damaged the alloy casing as the pin was a bit bent when i got it out. note to self be careful with a bloody big torque wrench i think i may have a while to calm down and come up with a plan and some bar to make the tool & open it all up again and assess the damage cheeers for your help will

cheers for that ralph, not sure if ill be down my workshop tomorrow will have to ask the wife, its all the way down near st keverne though i wouldnt want you to go out of your way and its a fair old trak from your place. ill let you know waht im doing though

hi guys need another bit of advice all was going well down in the workshop today, untill i decided now would be as good a time as any to torque up the crankshaft bolt some 330 nm i think (and loctite) well i didnt get that much torque on it as i forgot all that was preventing rotation was the fuel pump timing pin, the result is that i think the timing has slipped a bit, then i noticed diesel (or what looks and smells like diesel) leaking from the front out of the breather hole in the timing chest, and now i cant get the nut undone questions are firstly, where is the diesel coming from and have i fuc@@d up my engine or fuel pump timing thingy secondly how can i undo the nut without spending 80 quid at difflock for the restraining tool. i dont want to spin the engine on the starter motor due to any possibility the timing may be out (although i have removed the rocker shaft to hopefullly prevent any further damage i belive the valve springs force all the valves closed and away from danger could someone please confirm this? cheers for looking and i hope you guys may have some better news for me im usually really cheerful after a day on the truck but today im not cheers, will ralph cheers for the invite but i did not make it up that way in the end and ive only just logged on. ill give bob a ring on monday and see if he can get some in for me next time im up there

cheers ralph, any idea if the usual places near helston hold this ready use, to pick up on a saturday, or is it a mail order item. (i tried cornwall farmers the other day and they stock "land rover blue" but it doent look the right colour) cheers will