bobrick

hi folks im progressing well with my rebuild of my series 2 in between welding up the bulkhead im tackling other bits and pieces. engine clean and repaint being one of them. i have a query regarding the distributor. the engine in question is not the original engine. serial number starts 901 making it a series 3, 8:1 cr 3 bearing petrol. i have already found out the carb is not correct and someone on here already identified it as an SU. looking at the distributor now the number on the distributor is 40817A which makes it a lucas DM2 according to their data sheets. is this the correct item for this engine, and when i take it off to clean the engine, is it worh keeping it or replacing it with the later 25D or 45D. which looks like the one you can get from paddoks. ideally i want to keep the truck as original as possible but with the engine not being the original one for this truck im considering changing the dymo ofr an alternator and installing electronic ignition just to improve the driveability i welcome your opinions cheers will

just thought i would post a few pics of the repair so far, only a liittle bit left to do now and a lick of paint then to source a drain channel.

Rich cheers for the offer of the drain channel even if you have to remove it in sections ill still be interested. i think its just welded along the join at intervals. Please PM me if you have any luck salvaging it. ref the repair, so far all is going well all the rot on the front has been cut out and im in the process of fabricating the repair panels and the backing angles for the repait to sit on. i spent yesterday am building my self a folder with scrap i had lying arround to speed things up a bit so today well see how we go. ill try and get some more pics of repair in process will

cheers for all the input i have since been down the workshop and i can confirm the sengine serial number starts 901 which according to the glencoyne site makes it a series 3, 3 main bearing petrol 2286. ill leave the carb as it is for the moment as it does appear to work. bowie what do you mean by a 1.75" carb is that a new unit or larger needle cheersw for all your help will

cheers for the input guys is the general idea to stick with what is fitted will

thats the problem i am not 100% sure what engine it is i will get the serial number ooff it tomorrow which will hopefully shed some light on the situation

cheers western & robotman i suppose the nest question is is it the correct type, looking at the glencoyne site its not a weber, solex or zenith so i suppose not. i still need to get the number off the block but the initial number has a 7 in it so im leaning towards a 17 prefix block the suffix letter is b i'll have a definate number tomorrow. will all the wiring will be replaced by a new loom from auto sparks

thanks for the replys guys, apart from the rot in the picture the rest of the bulkhead is sound with minor welding required on passengar door pillar. all the rot is concentrated around the drivers side and both of the footwells are sound, but thanks for the ebay link ill keep my eye on that. i thought about folding a piece of steel for the drain channel however i dont know how to get the curve into it whith it folded or fold it after its curved, i will email ashtree and andover bulkhead restorers and see if they may be able to help me out. wrt the carb, it is mounted on a curved spacer (about 6"long). the fuel inlet banjo is closest to the bulkhead, i have had a look at the glencoyne page already but i cant see how it resembles and of the ones in the pictures, i managed to find a picture of it though.

hello everyone i am curently restoring a 1960 series 2 (A Suffix) so far i have managed to get the tub off and repair all the the back end aft of centre cross member and replace the clutch. the bulkhead has been taken of ready for prep and weld however i have a few questions i hope some of you may be able to answer (i have attached a bulkhead picture for you to view) 1. what is the best way to repair/weld around the vents i was planning on welding against a brass block to fill in the holes 2. does any one know where i could get hold of a drain channel that sits on the front of the bulkhead between bulkhead and bonnet. 3. how do i identify the carb, i think it may be a solex but it doesent look exactly like any pictures i can find. and i dont think the engine is original finally i dont think the clutch is set right, when i tested it the slave cylinder blew its piston before the pressure plate was disengaged. when i removed the gearbox i removed the acuating bracket and rod so there may be a chance i refitted it 180 degress out where the actuating rod connects to the release bearing rod (hope that makes sense) ill try and find a picture from a manual later cheers for looking a new bulkhead is not an option will

hi everyone, thanks for looking and ill keep it brief having just got a cheap s2a that needs a lot of work i have been pricing up and come accross a few issues with the fuel tank. (its a swb 88") (A reg i think) the one thats fitted is curved and rounded similar to that of a defender style fuel tank. its not beyond repair however i really dont have the patience or time to repair it. all the fuel tanks i have seen in the parts books both s2 &3 show a square style tank, with what appears to be similar outlets and holes in the top that also look to be in the right place the question i have is are these tanks interchangeable? cheers for looking hope you can help me out this is the one i have. can i fit this one cheers will

hi guys cheers for you advice, i know its been a while but bettter late than never well the upshot of my misdemeaner was that i trashed the timing pump by ripping the alloy casing round the timing pin this in turn tore a chunk of alloy out and exposed the front bearing. i have now learnt my leasson and have manufactured a tool as described in another post ( i dont know why i didnt before). on the good side of things i have managed to source a new pump for £50 bucks (serviceability unknown but ill take a gamble at that price, the seller said it was serviceable). does anybody have any top tips when replacing one of these or is it just a case of fit it then set timing as per the post in the forum and take care when torqing crank bolt (i have a tool for that now) any advice would be greatly recievd cheers will

cheers guys i think i may have damaged the alloy casing as the pin was a bit bent when i got it out. note to self be careful with a bloody big torque wrench i think i may have a while to calm down and come up with a plan and some bar to make the tool & open it all up again and assess the damage cheeers for your help will

cheers for that ralph, not sure if ill be down my workshop tomorrow will have to ask the wife, its all the way down near st keverne though i wouldnt want you to go out of your way and its a fair old trak from your place. ill let you know waht im doing though

hi guys need another bit of advice all was going well down in the workshop today, untill i decided now would be as good a time as any to torque up the crankshaft bolt some 330 nm i think (and loctite) well i didnt get that much torque on it as i forgot all that was preventing rotation was the fuel pump timing pin, the result is that i think the timing has slipped a bit, then i noticed diesel (or what looks and smells like diesel) leaking from the front out of the breather hole in the timing chest, and now i cant get the nut undone questions are firstly, where is the diesel coming from and have i fuc@@d up my engine or fuel pump timing thingy secondly how can i undo the nut without spending 80 quid at difflock for the restraining tool. i dont want to spin the engine on the starter motor due to any possibility the timing may be out (although i have removed the rocker shaft to hopefullly prevent any further damage i belive the valve springs force all the valves closed and away from danger could someone please confirm this? cheers for looking and i hope you guys may have some better news for me im usually really cheerful after a day on the truck but today im not cheers, will ralph cheers for the invite but i did not make it up that way in the end and ive only just logged on. ill give bob a ring on monday and see if he can get some in for me next time im up there

cheers ralph, any idea if the usual places near helston hold this ready use, to pick up on a saturday, or is it a mail order item. (i tried cornwall farmers the other day and they stock "land rover blue" but it doent look the right colour) cheers will

its 1984 so will have to try the marine blue cheers ralph

hi everybody i need to pick up some paint tomorrow and was hoping to get the right colour first time. just need a bit of help from the collective though. if any one has this months issue of Land rover owner international ( april, issue 4 2010) could you please tell me what type of blue the defender is on page 212 this is what mine is and i need to get some of that paint, preferably before the weekend. cheers for looking will

cheers ralph thats a great help, i suspected it was the first one anyway but will get the others as they are only pence just in case cheers will

hi ralph i have had a look at my parts catalogues however i was wondering if you might have a better idea. i need a number for the spacer washer or thrust washer (whatever its called) for a discovery 1 axle. its the item that goes between the bearing and the inner hub nut. unfortunatly i dont have any way to identify the axle apart from that i know (but not 100% certain) that it is a disco 1 axle. i tried to find the axle number however its been painted over and i cannot find it. the stub axle has has a flat on it rather than a keyway if that is any help and it is a non abs axle. the numbers i had in my parts diagrams were FTC3185 FTC5241 i have cross referred these on the internet and paddocks throws up defender axle lock washers so i got a bit concerned cheers for looking will

hi all im looking into getting new brake parts for my rebuild and i need a set of front discs, pads and securing clips. i just want to gauge peoples opinions on what parts to go for, delphi or mintex. i dont want EBC greenstuf as i have heard they are quite soft and can wear quickly when muddy like wise with slotted and drilled discs which i presume may collect debris in the grooves and compound that problem. looking forward to hearing your opinions cheers will (who is the OEM for brake parts anyway)

hi all i was refitting my swivel balls on my defender rebuld today and i come across a unlikely crows foot in my toolbox. as you may be aware these bolts are 14mm and 12pt so realistically you can only fit a 12pt ring spanner on them as there is no room for a socket. i have been thinking for the last 2 weeks how i could get around the problem of ensuring they are correctly torqued without having to spend £15-20 on a crows foot that i will only need once or not very often. without being entirely sure i went up the workshop today and the solution presented itself when i collected the tools for the job together. in most spanner rolls you come across a double ended off set ring spanner, 14mm on one end and 15mm the other end. the 15mm end fits snugly onto a 3/8 drive torque wrench. by measuring the length of this spanner and the length of your torque wrench you an calculate what torque setting to set the wrench to with the extension using this equation set wrench to = (desired tq X wrench length) (wrench length + extension length) or go here for a nice litle calculator www.belknaptools.com/extcalc.asp if you use this method ensure the estension and wrench are in a perfect straight line as the torque being applied will be affected if they are not anyway i thought i would share this with you guys as i was really pleased with my improvisation at the time

thankyou this will be so helpful for my project

hi guys just trying to get all the necessassery parts, equipment and POL ready for the front axle rebuild i'll be doing over xmas hols, just a few questions regarding the inflam that gets involved in this job, the manual quotes sealants, greases, oils and threadlock but i cannot find any specs therefore apart from swivel housing oil what grease should i use for the bearings what sealant should i use when assembling the pin assys (at top and bottom of swivel housing) what spec loctite do i need to use for attaching swivel ball to casing and stub axle to swivel housing maybe it would be a good thread for the tech archive if anyone knew the spec of all the oils and greases used thoughout a landrover cheers for looking will

hi everyone i need a little help please. in the pictures is the panhard rod to chassis mounting bracket (1) and a steering box tie bar(2). i tried to assemble these on my landy the other day after taking them apart almost a year ago. the only thing is i dont know if there is a bush required for where the tie bar sits in the other bracket (where the arrow is pointing). when asembling the hole is much larger than what is required. if a bush is required a part number would be handy as well. cheers for looking any help would be greatly appreciated cheers will

ralph, where do you get your parts from round here