ridgewood12

I need a bit of a sanity check with my wiring issue. Went to start my 96 Landrover Defender 300TDI 90. Starter Motor did not crank. No clicking solenoid just dead. Assumed dead battery. Volt meter read battery voltage to be 12.4 Volts. wipers and lights all seem good. Gave the Solenoid a tap with a hammer to rule out sticky solenoid. Next. Checked the white\Red wire feeding the Starter Motor Solenoid. Had a mate hold the key in the cranking position (position3) whilst i tested for power. Nothing. Next. Got to the back of the ignition barrel. Tested the Brown cable. reads 12volts. Next Checked the Ignition Relay. The brown cable (pin 74 I think). Reads 12 volts. Next checked the White\Red cable on the relay, again whilst my mate held the key in the cranking position. 0 volts. I'm assuming a relay issue. Before I replace the relay, need a sanity check around my Immobiliser. I have a Toad Immobiliser (no idea the model). Came with the car with a red fob. (has to be presented to a three pin base plate on the ignition casing with red flashing light). I've noticed that when I present the fob to the base plate the red light continues to flash. I'm not 100% sure but i'm sure the red light should stay illuminated for about 20 secs. Could be wrong of course. Has anyone seen this problem before. Any help would be greatly appreciated.....Cheers

Thank for the sound advice. We'll check the trailer dash light to see if there is a blown bulb. I've checked for the red and white wire behind the Cigarette lighter and rear wiper controls on my 300TDI, couldn't find the wire that was mentioned. Maybe its different on the 300TDI, i'll check on my mate's 200TDI. Thanks also for the advice on the interior switch. I will have a go and let you know how I get on. thanks

Nice a bit of advise on Defender electrics.(91 200TDI) A mate with a little help from me have been installing a mud console. The console will house, Hazzard switch Interior light, stereo and Spot lights. When we pulled the binnacle out the wiring was a bit of a mess, so my mate was on a mission to sort it out. We've run new cables through the back of the dash and out through the channel to where the mud console will be located. We've connected the new wiring to the existing Hazzard, interior light loom and terminated. Question 1. Interior switch, the wiring is shot. There is a unique issue when operating the new mud carling switch. With the main vehicle lights switched off. the interior light comes on. However the main head lights also come on. (Told you it was weird), when the vehicles lights are switched on, the interior light go's out and cannot be switched on. I'm guessing one of the original interior light cables was incorrectly wired into the loom. Can someone help and tell me what colours are originally connected to the light switch and what they connect to into on the loom. Question 2 Hazard warning light My mate has purchased the Carling Hazard switch from Mudd. We've got the hazards lights working correctly and the tell tell light on the switch works fine. My question is this. on the 200TDI 1991, is there a tell tell dash light that should illuminate when the Hazards are switched on. We have 7 cables connected with only number 8 missing. Looking through the Mudd Instructions, there should be a red cable with a white strip connected to this terminal, for the life of us, we can't find this cable behind the dash. So were wondering, is this cable present on the 200tdi. Or if it is, were would be the best place to take a feed to power the dash tell tell lights. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers

Hi all, I've two questions. I've been searching the Internet but I've not found a satifactory answer to either. 1. I'm in the process of replacing my transmission brake shoes due to oil contamination from the transfer gearbox. With some effort I managed to get the handbrake cable off thw right hand brake shoe during the strip down. For the life of me i can't managed to get the hand brake cable to connect to the new brake pad leaver. It would seem that the spring has to be depressed and slipped over the connector. I've tried brute forced but cant expose enough of the cable. (DO I HAVE TO WIND DOWN THE BRAKE CABLE ADJUSTER), the one under the drivers seat Inspection panel. Or am I missing another way to connect the cable? 2. I'm also replacing the transfer gearbox output shaft oil seal. on the stripdown I've noticed the oil seal cover is missing. Firstly do I need this cover? any idea when I can buy the output shaft oilseal protective cover from? thanks

Hi All, This is my second post in as many days. Following on from the advise on this forum, I've had a bit of a weekend of maintenance. After correcting a handbrake problem. I went on to overhaul my rear brakes. (turned out to be a pig of a job). However after taking apart the Rear Hub assembly, I replaced the Disks, one of the Callipers (one of brake pipes would not shift, so had to leave in place for now), the brake pads. Whilst I had it in bits decided to repace the Grease seal, Inner and outer bearings, joint washer and lock washers on each side. I have two questions. 1. The Haynes or Land Rover workshop manual don't mention greasing the brearings or the type of grease to use. I've assumed that this is becuause the dif oil is used to lubricate the bearings, but I'm not 100% sure. my gut is telling me that needs to be greased. 2. As I have a ceased brake pipe, I need to replace the brake pipe, so I can replace the calliper. I've decided to use braided pipes for the rear as I'm planning to fit a new suspection with a 2" lift. As I've got this apart it seems a good idea to fit this all at the same time. my question is this. Do the breaded hoses connect from the brake callipoer directly into the T piece, located ontop of the rear axle or do they connect onto the brake pipe that currently connects to the rear calliper with some sort of conversion. my concern is that as i already have a damaged rear brake pipe, If I buy braded pipes that convert the brake pipe that conects to the rear brake pipe, then I still need to buy a new brake pipe. Sory for the waffle. just trying to clarify this Cheers

Thanks everyone for top advice. Looks like a job for the weekend.

Hi All, this is my first post for this forum. i could really do with some advise. Recently sold my truck cab 200TDI and purchased a 300TDI station wagon. sorted a couple of the odvious faults with the Defender, but my priority is safety jobs first. The handbrake is one of those jobs. Now compared to the 200TDI the handbrake adjustment is better presented and would seem a little simplier to work on. Not being as familiar with the 300TDI as i was with the 200TDI, I referenced the Online Landrover Workshop manual. So I first tied to adjust the handbrake cable, using the adjuster directly under the driver seat Inspection cover. This made little or no differnece. The next thing was to locate the diff brake adjuster and adjust. i refurred to the manual and: 1. chocked the front wheels 2. jacked up the Defender 3. Placed on axle stands 4. released the handbrake 5. Tightened the handbrake adjuster to 150nm 6. released the adjusted 1.5 turns Problem is, the handbrake holds on a hill however, nearly everytime I pull away, there is odvious resistance. After about 15-20 meters, there's a loud thud from the tranmission handbrake, and the car drives normally again. I've continued to adjust the handbrake by turning the adjuster anti clockwise in increments of a quarter of a turn. The handbrake is back to the way it was (not holding on hills), however the thud and on some occasions the physical zerk of the whole vehicle. I need to get under and Inspect the transmission brake, however i need to know what i'm doing wrong and some useful advise on the correct procedure to adjust the handbrake on a 300TDI Land Rover. (The car is a 96, if that makes a difference). Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks

My Landy's a 94 90 200TDI

Hi, Has anyone any experience of fitting a dash clock to a Landrover Defender. Next to the Tempreture Guage there is a blanking plate which i have been informed is for a Clock. After trawling E-Bay, I purchased a Defender clock. I've pulled the clocks forward expecting to see the connectors for the clock sititng waiting but I can't seem to find anything relevant. There are a couple of spade connectors but I'm not sure if these are right. If the clock wiring is not part of the loom, has anyone got any tips on the best way to get this working. I wouldn't say I'm an expert with wiring, but I'm pretty good at following Instructions... Cheers

Hi, this is my first post on this forum, but I have got loads of great advice from this site in the past. Can anyone help. I'm in the process of trying to replace my Landrover Defender 90, passenger door lower door hinge. However of of the screws which attach to the body is just spinning when I try and undo the screw. I can't see anyway of getting to the rear of the fiting so I can get a spanner on it. Haynes manual is useless... Any advice would be greatly appreciated Thanks JB