Tal

Cool beans thanks guys, I can her back on the road instead of sitting on axle stands Tal

Ah I got you, so locked it shouldnt mess with the differential at all...but normal transmission it might do bad things Thanks Blanco I guess we wait and see how it went if they have

I have a disco 300tdi and its off the road (mot) at the moment with no front propshaft, I'm wondering if I can drive it about 5 miles to the garage for the work finishing off without destroying the transfer box ...or is it not worth the risk cheers Tal

I am running a 200tdi engine in a series 3 88inch body so the clearances are a bit wierd for a standard air filter box. This one has an H&t lifetime filter that clamps directly on to the intake on the turbo. Problem is it has collapsed (I've washed it out with methanol so the car works) so I need a new one but have no idea what I actually need to buy. Anyone got a clue what I need please. Cheers Tal

Thanks I'll have a look into that, I figured there would be something.

At present I have 225/65 r16 tyres on my disco1 which are ancient and keep going down. I have some newer wheels with 265/75 r16 tyres and I am wondering if there is any issue with the size difference. I don't want to just put them on and damage something so I am wondering if they will they go straight on or do I need to do something. There are no modifications on the vehicle. Do you need more info than that? Cheers Tal

Thats nice work Soren, did you use Nickel to weld the cast iron? (I'll have a listen to the engine later) Did you have to do much retuning to get the carb to work with the turbo?

how restricted are you. a cut down pallet with casters should be enough if you floor is smooth

It could be as simple as a siezed brake piston and a worn brake pad. metal on metal with the brake seat touching the disc. if it is, check the opposite rear one as well

I can see vertical scoring on the cylinder so it looks to me like an overheat may be the cause of the seize. if there has been a large water leak somewhere along the way along with the head gasket leaking it would have sucked steam into the head during the overheat causing the corrosion. You might be able to clean the head out with a rotary wire brush but do it before you remove the valves, they'll need reseating anyway but you don't want all the crud and extra hassle of cleaning bits of wire brush and corroded junk out of your valve seats and cylider head before you polish them.

ah i see,a nice bit of swapping pumps around, what sort of pressure does it build up in the tank?

that machine cover in the bay plastics video looks awesome I would think they could certainly make what you need but at what cost?

would be fascinated to see how you built your own compressor

I would mold it over the existing windows too but whats to stop you using the existing ones,,,there is a good chance that perspex strong enough to take a hit from a stone at 60mph on a road would actually be heavier than the plexiglass type stuff that you have freely available already. as regards temperature its approximately what an electric bar fire would produce at a range of about 3cm. You have to watch it really carefully so it doesnt bubble.

thats a bodge job to be proud of. some of them are truly terrifying. You could probably neaten it up with some barrel or bullet joints but it looks pretty good otherwuse. A dead fuel pump is very common in the freelanders, make sure you get a decent one though or the noise will drive you potty and it won't last long anyway. A wire brush and some primer and spray paint should sort that access hatch out nicely. if you leave it, it'll soon rot and you'll get water and a draft coming in from underneath the car