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Anderzander

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Anderzander

  1. Depends what you’ve got it in 😀
  2. I guess it depends on wether you think of the change to coils as development or a totally new model?. I tend to think of it as just part of the continual development - but with a name change. So the 90/110 was sort of the Series 4, the Defender being the 4a. When you see those Stage 1’s with the 90/110 bodywork permanent 4wd from the RR running gear, but with leaf springs it feels like the missing link. It was evolution. Also those very early 90’s have a distinct series feel about them with the lift up handles, galv cappings, and very basic interiors. Didnt they only call it the Defender because they turned the model into the brand to make other models?
  3. I’m pretty certain it’s not the cable - Cable turns with the wheels, locates as it did before, whereas the Speedo won’t work even if driven with a drill now. It read ok before the rebuild - albeit swinging around, but now I’ve bigger tyres and 3.9 diffs. So I am expecting it to be out. There is a nice chap in the series one club who rebuilds them - calibrates them, recharges the magnets, and so on - he can also help reduce the swinging too. I think I’d like it done to know it’s right for the next 70 years. Plus the last Speedo I tried to repair never worked the same again ...
  4. Thank you @FridgeFreezer I’ve a new job on the 80, not quite there - in the 10 years it’s taken to get it finished it seems the Speedo has stopped working. There are folk who can repair them - and I’m hoping they might be able to re-gear it too to match the new diffs and tyres.
  5. It does ! Good to see you still around Paul.
  6. Is Paul still around Mo? Not seen him post for ages.
  7. I did look at fitting one of these: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F271795144761 The controller is only a signal LED, and on/off, and a variable pot. The problem with the controller is that the post the dial mounts to is a fragile triangular plastic thing, that lights up the centre of the knob, and it isn’t strong enough to take anything but the lightest - tightest fitting OE dial. Google told me someone had measured the resistance range of the pot - I mentioned it on here a while back, and someone pointed me to a source for one - but that was tiny and also wouldn’t take that nice big Bakelite thing. Next thing is that the interior has the switch, but also the LED interior light below the dash, a covered double USB, and the heater vents ... all looking modern - and I actually think they look ok. My sequence on this has been: If it’s original: do your best to preserve it, such as repairing the original chassis and panels, and the galv finish. If it’s already changed: feel free to update it to make it more useable and reliable but ... a. Make it look original where you can. e.g period dial oil/water gauge as the original ammeter was gone. The original engine was gone - so fit this one but make it look as much like the Dr from Back to the Future has dropped a 200tdi off at Rover in 1951. b. Where you can’t make it look original - just make it as neat and honest an addition as possible. That’s kind of where the switch and the vents feel they are. Hell that was rather a long reply. I guess it shows I’m enough of a geek to have developed a repair strategy ...!?!?
  8. Oh - that paint booth is actually black and white - with the exception of the red chest of drawers in the corner.
  9. Not fully tight in those pictures - but they tend to shrink a bit too don’t they, unevenly too across weave and weft (I think it’s called). So it’s made a bit big. This one is made by Undercover Covers and they seem to have a flawless reputation in the Series One club. Exmoor on the other hand seem to shrink across the back and end up too short.
  10. @Gazzar that’s a weight off my mind 😂 I’m hoping it’ll scrape under the up and over door - with the internal handle removed. I’m thinking short term, if it won’t do the above, might be airing down the tyres ... If they don’t flatten enough I can get it in with the hood off - but I’d rather blow tyres up from my compressor to use it than remove and refit the hood on every journey. Longer term if it won’t scrape under - I’ll change to side opening timber doors instead of the up and over.
  11. The painter touched up a couple of chips and photographed it - they’re quite nice pictures, but for some reason make it look quite a different green and a lot shinier ...
  12. Also to work out how to fit it in the garage ! It’s a fraction too tall. Couple more pictures:
  13. I haven’t asked the other question either ... After being pulled back to a rolling chassis, the repair work started in earnest at the end of 2017.
  14. My suggestion is don’t buy anything on HP.
  15. Not sure what engine you have .. but ‘No ... don’t use putty’ - fix it properly. For example: If it’s a 200tdi it has an olive that sets the depth - and could have worn and moved down the tube. You don’t want it falling off the bottom into your sump. The 300 works on an o ring and just presses in against a raised collar if I remember correctly - and having just woke up, I can’t think how that would have vertical play unless the mount has worn or come loose. They aren’t expensive to replace.
  16. That usually works the other way round ...... !?
  17. I think that’s a good option, especially on the floor where it is going be recessed to cover the sides.
  18. Such lovely things to say 😍. Thank you.
  19. Thanks all 😊 All the canvas turned up today..... and the squisher switch. So I think it’s done ......
  20. Lovely offer Ross 😊. We’ll be taking it through the tunnel at some point - so would love to stop for a brew on the way ☕️
  21. I can think of 3 things on my 80” that I totally lost - bought replacements for - only to then have them bizarrely reappear !
  22. I’m beyond excited 😆 Just waiting on the wiper button and the hood arriving in the post. With the hood will come the door flaps, the strap to hold up the seat box lid over the petrol tank, the covers for the tailgate chains and a couple of bits to go on the windscreen support brackets. This is Jim next to the drivers door, Graham next to him, and crouching down is Em - who came with me to collect it 10 years ago, when this thread was started.
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