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Everything posted by Anderzander

  1. Was it along the lines of them not being transparent that it’s heavily modified and what the implications of those modifications are?
  2. That is nice ! Great to see it coming back 😊 Please keep sharing please! I’d use sikaflex under the wing.
  3. You’ll soon have that 110 in there - and coming together at the same rapid pace ! 😊
  4. Yes - I linked to one above too.
  5. I’d agree - I’ve had truly amazing service from them and their quality is top notch. I’ve seen a lot of their kit on Series 1’s and it’s all been superb. Conversely - I’ve seen a couple of exmoor hoods rot in just a few years on two vehicles and another one where things like the buckles had been put on incorrectly.
  6. I like Steve B’s idea 💡 The one in the picture has no bowl, but I would think if you bought the generic bowl type (along with a couple of halogen lights) then you would be able to make something work. it looks as simple as your grill panel having integrated front rims, behind that you would think you’d have a number of options for fitting it in and adjusting it.
  7. They came and seem really nice 👍🏻 It doesn’t say Fuel - but it does say brushless. More than enough for what I need though I think.
  8. I’m not sure where is open? - but I’d go with UnderCover Covers over Exmoor Trim. Fabulous quality stuff. UnderCover Covers is their Land Rover trading name - where I think they use this name for their Military Contracts: http://www.comptons2000.co.uk
  9. Perhaps I should get my coat 🧥
  10. Just like there is no sign of Land Rover on here at all ! Madness !
  11. For the Farmer, The Countryman, and General industrial use.
  12. I would think the easiest route would be to simply replace the side panels and sell yours on....
  13. Out of interest ... how did you get on with it ?
  14. In a normal garage a couple of 20w ones would be probably be plenty bright enough - and they are cheap as chips: https://cpc.farnell.com/w/c/electrical-lighting/lighting/outdoor-lighting/floodlights/prl/results?st=Tac &sort=P_PRICE
  15. That’s interesting Ed 🤔 I was in my garage today thinking the light from my fluorescent tunes was a bit carp, and having fitted an LED outside light at the back of the house, found myself thinking there must be something better than this.
  16. If you lost all the thread I think you would have been able to just pull/knock it in. I’ve seen them drilled out 14mm which will only take a fraction more than the threads out. If the threads are there though - I think it’s enough to stop it going in. 9/16 BSF tapping drill size is 1/2” - so under 13mm
  17. They are. Here are the S1 original type : https://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Wheel-Stud-for-Series-1-217360.html#SID=108 Did these other studs come with the car? If so my guess would be that they were bought and then the person realised they won’t fit. The knock in ones superceded the original type - so if someone ordered some new ones they would likely have turned up and not fitted.
  18. To rephrase the above and hopefully make it clearer.... You have the wrong type of studs. Your hub is meant to have thread in studs -with top of the stud pressed / staked. The press fit / knock in studs are meant for a hub with a larger hole* * and to on mine were shorter if just pressed in without countersinking the head. So you either need to modify the hub to take the knock in type of Studs you have ..... or get the right type and work out how you will stake it.
  19. When I did mine on my first Td5 90 I did drop the tank - but got it back in from the bottom. I can’t really remember how though ... other than I swore and hated the job a lot, I also think I used a highlift to lift the chassis from the newly fitted crossmember. Oh, and I remember that when I finally did get the tank back in I remembered that I’d forgot to clean the pump filter whilst it was out 😳
  20. I just need to clean it and buzzweld it now !
  21. Here Steve - these are the BSF press in studs: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F322352720203
  22. I don’t know when they changed ... but S1 and I’m assuming early S2 had BSF studs that were threaded at both ends, and peened over on the back to lock them in. Later these were changed to the splined shoulder type you describe, which were meant for a larger hole and to be pressed through from the back. (i.e not screwed in) It sounds like you have the first type of hole and the later type of stud. Now you can get the original type of stud and you could (in order of correctness/bodge) find a way to pean/press them over on the back edge, or chemically bond them in, or (horror) put a blob of weld on them. The other option is to drill them out, countersink the back so it sits flush and comes through enough, and then press them in. I have just replaced 2 on my series one... 1 had been pushed through and welded, badly. It was absurdly short. Another was one that had been drilled out and pressed in - but it was now seized and hadn’t been countersunk and as a result was short on the face. So I replaced both with the later type countersunk - primarily because both holes had been enlarged with no opportunity to put in the original types. I got an engineer to do it - with them having been bodged I didn’t feel I had much leeway to get it right, and my old puller drill and an angle grinder didn’t seem Like the safest approach. Happy to take some photos of that would help.
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