Anderzander

I think it was a CT177 I hired to fetch my tractor … good trailer .. but I wouldn’t want a shipping container on it 🤣

I had started to look at those and was initially leaning that way .. Cost wise though - a new control box plus a dynamo rebuild is still a lot less money than the Tudor alternator…. Where I’d then also be wanting to change from an ammeter. Plus then there is the originality bit … I am going to be trying a different starter motor… but it would be good to limit what I change where I can. Original is nice if it works ….and that dynamo has worked for it (to some degree) since 1958.

I’ve been thinking about this - standard delivery wouldn’t work for me I want it in a field. A bale trailer and a telehandler are the obvious choice if I can coordinate arranging it all ..

I missed this - great news that your 110 will live again 😊

On to the next thing …. I have noticed is that there is something no right with the charging circuit. If you watch a multimeter across the battery it reads just the battery voltage .. which does creep up a tenth of a volt at a time. Im no expert on dynamos, but I think it should have more than that coming out the regulator / control box. I popped the wires off the dynamo and checked the power terminal, against earth, for its voltage. It should be 2-4v. I got -1.2 hmm. Made me thing it wasn’t polarised - so I kept it disconnected and put a jump cable onto the battery positive (it’s -be earth) and brushed it against the dynamo’s field terminal .. got a little spark .. and that got rid of the minus sign. Even building the revs really high only got it to about 1.7v. Then I ran out of time .. though I did clean up the terminals a bit when I wired it back up. If I can connect those two terminals together .. and measure voltage from there to Earth I should get up to its full voltage A up to 20v (as it’s no regulated)… so I think that’s the next test. Somethings not right from what I’ve already got though. It’s about £80 to get the dynamo rebuilt and about £25 for a control box. Still nothing from dvla unfortunately.

With that done .. I could sort the air cleaner. I reckon there was more money’s worth of tape on the inlet rubber than the new rubber cost … The inlet rubber goes into the back of the dash .. I guess that is deemed the least likely spot to get harvest dust in it? The removable mesh filter from the bottom was replaced - I guess this is the primary filter - the mesh in the top half is fixed. I put SAE30 in here - can’t imagine multigrade will get up to temperature.. All done. Starting really well now. Fuel ✅ Air ✅ Starter wiring ✅ Heater plug ✅

Before I went to re-fit the filter I wanted to re-route the battery cable .. In doing that I noticed that it was sparking around the terminal…. Not ideal. So I brought forward my plan to make up a new cable. i was going to use a new battery terminal - but then I thought I should really clean up the original: A before and after. It’s Vaseline on the Earth. Having new flexible 35mm² next to the old original cable was a stark contrast. So much easier to work with. That little pot that’s plumbed into the fuel tank is called ‘the auxiliary tank’ it’s fed from the top of the fuel filter and feed the heater plug. Whilst I was on this side I cleaned and tidied up the wires and started terminals. I may end up replacing this .. but it’s not wasted effort.

I bought a tin of the right paint for the grey .. flint grey. Lovely colour - though not, as it transpires, the one the previous owner used. So I took the air cleaner off and got some pain mixed up to match it. (Flint grey won’t go to waste - I can use it on the trailer when I get into that.) Before and After : Colour match was brilliant … though it seems he used another shade again for the wheels. 🤷 The plan here was that, having sorted the fuelling out with new filters, I’d turn my attention to the air.

I quite like the idea of the Shielder single skin ones…….

Not to mention all the port holes

Yes …. Those dumb irons tell a story.

@Stellaghost I did a screen grab of it for you ….

Not sure it fits in the ‘I want it’ category.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135001317300?

I find it interesting how the rev counter is run from the drive on the injection pump.

I un-seized the rev counter tonight and fitted a new drive cable. Pattern parts again though - the square end of the cable was too big, so I had to carefully hold the flat sides against a grindstone to take them down a bit and fit. Worked though. All you V8 lovers .. I cant see how you don’t love a diesel at idle….

Thanks - the chap I bought it from seems a good guy, he’s being helpful, and his business has lots of very very positive reviews on Google, so he seems a decent chap. He does say that’s the (only) log book he got. If it’s come from probate - perhaps the V5 from the previous owner wasn’t the latest one ? I’ll just have to wait and see. I’m told there is often issues with this old farm machinery as farmers aren’t good record keepers …..

There is a worrying development with it actually … DVLA haven’t returned a V5 to me and are saying the V5 I saw and had the new keeper slip from was not the last v5 issued. This is their email: From my perspective I collected it from the guy whose name was on the v5 - at the address on the v5 … so not sure what has happened. I do know the guy does probate house clearance and bought the tractor as part of that .. so I wonder if dvla are trying to contact someone who is dead …. Though that wouldn’t explain a further v5 issued after it had gone into his name. Hope it all works out ….

I think that’s about right !

I also put a new pipe through to the heater plug, proper Ferguson name being ‘Thermostat’. It fits in the inlet manifold and acts like a glow plug with a diesel supply which it ignites. Good little video on YouTube shows one working in a vice. I checked the one that was in it in a vice in the same way .. that definitely hadn’t been restored and was completely full of carbon and dead. Disappointingly the new one seems to have died already. It’s still heating - but not opening for the diesel to come in.

That meant I could pipe the fuel back up… There is a nut though - so close to the body of the lift pump, that I needed to dig out an old 1/4” hex socket and grind it to reduce the OD. (Should have done it on my new lathe!) You can see how bad the threads are in the pump and how rounded the nut is. New pump posed a similar problem - but grinding the screw flush in the back corner of this picture made enough room to get it back on. End result looks a bit like this: New fuel filter in. Used the lift pump to bleed through to the filter, then the bottom of the injection pump, top of the injection pump, then cracked that far left injector and it fired up.

I did that thing where I bought a new fuel tap and then realised the old one could be fixed. I’m too impatient/excited. So this tractor had been restored - but as always you start to find things. The fuel tap was an example. It had been painted - but not much else. The mesh filter was long gone, and presumably to stop carp from the bottom of the tank getting in, there had been a piece of 8mm copper knocked in. Apparently a common farmer mod - but it must have left half a gallon of fuel in unused. At the bottom of that inlet/entrance there are two holes - the large main round one and a half round one, which probably works to allow air back up into the tank. The half round one was completely blocked and had been for many many years I’d say. The other was greatly reduced in diameter. Ultrasonic cleaners are brilliant for this kind of thing. It’s come up like new. I drilled the top out ever so slightly, so I could press fit a plastic mesh fuel filter. Very satisfying doing this kind of thing, if slow. The red is rubber grease to lubricate and preserve the o ring.

That’s why I shared it ! Deja Vu I wondered if under the Ferguson badge there was a Rover one ..

That lead to a bit of a Diesel adventure. The new lift pump had come, so I thought ‘before it gets dark, I’ll turn the fuel tap off and swap it out’. Alas it turned out the on/off on the fuel tap/bowl doesn’t actually turn the fuel off - once I’d released the pipe from the lift pump it was pouring out. Tried to fix it back in - but the nut was really badly rounded, particularly in the tightening direction - so I couldn’t get it back in. I stuck a bowl under it - but the diesel was being diverted by all the nooks and crannies and so less than 10% was going in the bowl. Cue me running round like an idiot, everything I tried to stop it wasn’t working. Pliers, Spanner’s, different bowls, bungs, seals, fittings, funnels - nothing worked. The floor, my jeans, my coat, my glasses, all covered. I found a bag of rubber pipes I hoped I could push over the fitting - none fit - so out with heat gun, all the while diesel pouring onto the gravel. It heated it up though and got it soft enough to push on … and finally I had it filling up a container without dripping all over the floor at the same time. The next job was finding enough containers - as I realised the kind previous owner had made sure the tank was full. Every container I picked up seemed to water, or waste oil in it, but after more anxiety and running I did find enough - and the photo represents the end moment … and much fuel rescued As I could and it all put away .. and relax.

So this forum says ‘not only land rover’, so I thought I might jot down some things on what’s consuming some of my time (at the expense of the Land Rovers) at the moment. On the 17th of Feb I brought this home: A 1958 Ferguson 35. It’s the less desirable Standard 4 cylinder model .. before they switched to the Perkins 3 cylinder. It had been ‘restored’ about 15 years I was told, and had just sat in someone’s garage all that time. My plan is to use it for a mower and haybob. First thing to address was the leaking lift pump and then work through whatever arises as I get to know it.

Good write up that Fridge, thanks for sharing.