Jump to content

Anderzander

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
  • Content Count

    5,737
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    32

Everything posted by Anderzander

  1. For the Farmer, The Countryman, and General industrial use.
  2. I would think the easiest route would be to simply replace the side panels and sell yours on....
  3. Out of interest ... how did you get on with it ?
  4. In a normal garage a couple of 20w ones would be probably be plenty bright enough - and they are cheap as chips: https://cpc.farnell.com/w/c/electrical-lighting/lighting/outdoor-lighting/floodlights/prl/results?st=Tac &sort=P_PRICE
  5. That’s interesting Ed 🤔 I was in my garage today thinking the light from my fluorescent tunes was a bit carp, and having fitted an LED outside light at the back of the house, found myself thinking there must be something better than this.
  6. If you lost all the thread I think you would have been able to just pull/knock it in. I’ve seen them drilled out 14mm which will only take a fraction more than the threads out. If the threads are there though - I think it’s enough to stop it going in. 9/16 BSF tapping drill size is 1/2” - so under 13mm
  7. They are. Here are the S1 original type : https://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Wheel-Stud-for-Series-1-217360.html#SID=108 Did these other studs come with the car? If so my guess would be that they were bought and then the person realised they won’t fit. The knock in ones superceded the original type - so if someone ordered some new ones they would likely have turned up and not fitted.
  8. To rephrase the above and hopefully make it clearer.... You have the wrong type of studs. Your hub is meant to have thread in studs -with top of the stud pressed / staked. The press fit / knock in studs are meant for a hub with a larger hole* * and to on mine were shorter if just pressed in without countersinking the head. So you either need to modify the hub to take the knock in type of Studs you have ..... or get the right type and work out how you will stake it.
  9. When I did mine on my first Td5 90 I did drop the tank - but got it back in from the bottom. I can’t really remember how though ... other than I swore and hated the job a lot, I also think I used a highlift to lift the chassis from the newly fitted crossmember. Oh, and I remember that when I finally did get the tank back in I remembered that I’d forgot to clean the pump filter whilst it was out 😳
  10. I just need to clean it and buzzweld it now !
  11. Here Steve - these are the BSF press in studs: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F322352720203
  12. I don’t know when they changed ... but S1 and I’m assuming early S2 had BSF studs that were threaded at both ends, and peened over on the back to lock them in. Later these were changed to the splined shoulder type you describe, which were meant for a larger hole and to be pressed through from the back. (i.e not screwed in) It sounds like you have the first type of hole and the later type of stud. Now you can get the original type of stud and you could (in order of correctness/bodge) find a way to pean/press them over on the back edge, or chemically bond them in, or (horror) put a blob of weld on them. The other option is to drill them out, countersink the back so it sits flush and comes through enough, and then press them in. I have just replaced 2 on my series one... 1 had been pushed through and welded, badly. It was absurdly short. Another was one that had been drilled out and pressed in - but it was now seized and hadn’t been countersunk and as a result was short on the face. So I replaced both with the later type countersunk - primarily because both holes had been enlarged with no opportunity to put in the original types. I got an engineer to do it - with them having been bodged I didn’t feel I had much leeway to get it right, and my old puller drill and an angle grinder didn’t seem Like the safest approach. Happy to take some photos of that would help.
  13. Thus my comment above pondering if the map was just chucking fuel in to for power - I wonder if it smokes? I wonder if the FPR is leaking?
  14. looking great ! Do you have plans for boarding out the trusses for storage ? Any plans for heat ?
  15. The catch for me is that I much prefer the look of OE wheels to the aftermarket ones. I did consider the zero offset Nakatanenga ANR CLASSIC steel rims - but they are 8” and a total fortune !
  16. Bit of a thread revival .... I’ve an offer of some Wolf rims and I’m wondering if the 18mm difference from the radius arm, to the Boosts I have on now, would make an appreciable difference to lock. I don’t really know what real world difference these numbers make.
  17. Thanks Muddy - I’ve ordered it though!
  18. Thanks Ed - I’ll have a look at that. At this point I was mainly thinking of having a drill I can use without the fuss and size of my (albeit rather nice) corded drill. Plus something for woodwork that would turn it’s hand to taking time out of all the endless small bolts I seem to spend an age on with spanners. For chunky stuff I have still been using air and breaker bars - though I was thinking if I like the battery stuff I could perhaps buy an impact wrench body and share the batteries at a later date...? Though if they did a double set of an impact driver and an impact wrench - I could live with my corded drill for the amount I use it ... 🤔
  19. Yes sorry - I picked the wrong thread to revive 😮 Though I was thinking that 180nm should undo a fair few things ... ?
  20. Thread revival With an isolated birthday next week - I’m thinking of taking advantage of the fact Screwfix are still doing free deliveries and getting this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/milwaukee-m18-cblpp2a-502c-18v-5-0ah-li-ion-redlithium-brushless-cordless-combi-drill-impact-driver-twin-pack/229hv Combi drill and impact driver pack delivering power and run time. RedLink Plus intelligence system delivers advanced digital overload protection and enhances performance under load. 1 x 18V Brushless Combi Drill 60Nm 1 x 18V Brushless Impact Driver 180Nm 2 x 18V 5.0Ah Li-Ion Batteries 1 x 100min Multi-Voltage Charger 1 x Carry Case(s) I’m not after some monster Nm - but something small enough to use in and around the car .... this looks a good one.
  21. I think it can last 9 days on hard surfaces and remain in the air, likely within droplets, for 3 hours.
  22. Assuming it’s standard Td5 gearing (gearbox and diffs) you should be doing about 2600 revs at 70mph - which seems comparable to a Td5 with smaller tyres and a 1.2 transfer box. If you drive at 60mph what mpg are you getting.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy