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Anderzander

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Anderzander

  1. I've found some brass ones on eBay ... http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=301112009178 Splendid
  2. CPC are up the road - they're part of Farnell, but they only seem to list the pre-insulated ones. If I have to use those I will but I prefer the factory look of the uninsulated ones.
  3. I've been looking to buy a few M8 non-insulated ring terminals to suit normal small wire sizes (around 1.5mm) ..... And I seem to either need to buy 100 or go for the pre insulated ones ... Can anyone point me in the right direction ? It's only to take a live feed from an albright for my switches .
  4. Is that a fuse on the +ve control feed ? I'm about to wire up an albright too - though the diagram that came with mine has no fuses in it. On the net I've seen the positive drawn from the main positive feed into the solenoid - which would make a 3 core cable suitable to run it back to in car switches. I have a small wireless controller and my plan is to wire that up and the dash switches in this way : I was going to use the wander lead, as I rather like it, but I guess it's somewhat redundant with a wireless controller.
  5. On my old 90 I left all of the rails intact - though had to rebuild quite a bit on one side. It then slid into the genuine crossmember and, practically speaking, made for an invisible replacement.
  6. Thank you ! And there I am posting that it looks great Mikey did you cut and weld the steel or take your templates somewhere to be cut ?
  7. I don't think I have .... Do you have a thread for it ?
  8. I don't think I've posted in here - due to having no fabrication skills.... Despite that though I'm pondering making up a winch bumper. I have a warn on my new 90 with a basic bumper like this : I've done a bit of measuring and noted that if I switch to an albright solenoid, mounted in the engine bay, the winch could be set back quite a bit. If I cut the bottom out of the metal grill plate then the winch could sit right back against the front crossmember and would fill the space between that and what would be the front face of a standard bumper. So having next to no fab experience - but access to a decent welder, I was pondering buying a winch plate from someone like Gwyn and joining it into a standard bumper. Something like these scruffy drawings : This is the winch tray I was thinking of : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181317149780 I was thinking the tray could pick up in the mounts used for the lashing eyes and be seam welded into the standard bumper. It would be a tight fit - but it would make for a very discrete mount, without being exposed to carp like the underslung ones were, and would still give access to the freespool and drum. It may also be reasonably cost effective to do ? Which is important at the moment. So - could a grown up offer some comments please ?
  9. Thanks Ralph - you're a national treasure
  10. Can anyone tell me the part numbers for the LT230 Input Gear bearings ? I've just bought a cross drilled gear and want to make sure I pick up the right ones. Thank you
  11. Except it's not quite unrestricted. Sandu - you'll need to block the vacuum pipe. The solenoids are up to you. There is tons you can read on this through a google search. Lots of examples of people carrying out the modification with kits etc
  12. Thanks everyone - it seems my missing ingredient was pallet wrap. I'll have a look where I can pick some up.
  13. Hopefully not too far off topic ..... Nor too idiotic I've a collection of bits to sell (side steps, A bar, snorkel and so on). What do you guys do for a packing materials on bigger items ? Parcels2go is good for prices - but is it just a case of buying shed loads of bubble wrap from somewhere ? Apologies for my postal incompetence ....
  14. Thanks chaps - and very kind Mo. I'm musing on it - but at the moment I'm leaning towards swapping it out for one of the puma type cubby trays.
  15. Thanks Nick. I was referring to the milemarker winch set up that firstfour sell - which uses this solenoid: http://m.firstfour.co.uk/item/2129361/hydraulic-control-valve-12vdc
  16. Excuse my ignorance - but are the Type R solenoids Cetop ?
  17. The sprinter can ones do look good - the fully compressed length is apparently 26cm. Could anyone compare that to the discovery jack please ? It would perhaps give me an idea of wether it'd fit under with a flat tyre.
  18. My new Td5 has a factory fit cubby - my first. I've had middle seats before. So in my ignorance is there anything I can do to it ? At the moment it just seems to be a box big enough to contain junk piled on top of each other.... Can you get trays or partitions for them ? and can you get inserts for the tray bit on the front ? Are these Cubby trays for sale on eBay something that fits in it's place ? Apologies for my ignorance !
  19. Bit of an update here. I was supposed to meet the insurance Engineer on Friday when he viewed the car, but I got stuck in the hospital waiting for some x-ray results. So yesterday I got down to the 90 to remove the winch - took a friend and was pleased with what we got done. It didn't seem right to totally pilfer it - but I got the hydraulics PTO and winch, switches, hi lift brackets and also took the Kaiser back diff out (swapped the standard one back in and even put the oil back in). What stood out though was that I don't know where my head was when I looked at it last time. It's really bent underneath. The chassis is bent along its whole length on two planes, radius arm on the 3 link is bent, engine is pushed off its drivers side mount, spring seats ripped off one of the axles, A Frame sheared at the chassis end, and so on and so forth. The other thing that took me by surprise was how upset I was getting at leaving it. I've put so much work in it and got so much enjoyment out of it - that once I'd stripped what I intended it was better to just get away quickly. Weird. The net result of the damage though being that the repairer had put a £16k bill in to repair it ! And the engineer wouldn't sell it back to me .... So I'm no expert but I guess that means a Cat B ? The good news is though that I had in my mind getting £8k for it - and I was armed with a list of costs and photos and classified ads to argue from - but when the engineer rang he said "we're supposed to use Glass's guide but that puts a £4k price on it - and that's miles out. So I'm putting at £8k" A result for me - it means it actually puts me in a small bit of profit after the new one. I think that's perhaps something worth people considering with their insurance too - the chap said Glass's guide has always been wrong on Defenders. It'd be a nightmare if I was with a crappy company who had started at that point. Agreed values are perhaps the way forward. Last thing to say though is - thanks for all the kind words everyone, it helped and was appreciated. Stephen
  20. Thanks both - that's the one o have fitted too
  21. Shows my ignorance - I didn't even realise their would be one....
  22. I did ! Mentioned it here :
  23. This is mine : http://www.wiggle.co.uk/saris-bones-3-bike-rack/ One thing I like is that the 3 arms fit on a splined shaft - and can be located at any angle in relationship to each other so it's almost totally adjustable.
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