Anderzander

You prompted me to look again and it looks like they’ve come down again ! Perhaps I saw a supply issue and the prices spiked accordingly. https://tyresdirectuk.co.uk/products/255-85r16-119p-toyo-open-country-m-t

Those Toyo’s have gone up massively in recent weeks…. I bought a set at about £135 a corner - and suddenly they were £220 a corner 😳

Snagger Metcalfe?

I think he should set up a patreon page !

This is all very exciting!! No temptation for anything resto-mod like?

I’m still picking away at this… I’m just going to type the sequence out to help me think it through. So Airtop stopped igniting and I’d get the no start / no flame fault. I used a syringe to inject diesel into the line and it fired but wouldn’t keep going. So I thought pump. Fitted a new pump - same problem. Read a bit and it seemed that the burn chamber getting blocked can stop it firing - so bought a service kit and fitted it. Came with a new glowplug, which snapped on installation - but the old one was working - so that went back in. Still the same problem. I noticed the fuel line joiners were a bit perished - so I thought it might be letting air in. So bought and fitted all new fuel lines - hard nylon clear ones, so I could hopefully see the bubbles. Still wouldn’t flame. I have a 2nd heater - bought to go in the 90. So I thought I’d piggy back that off of the Airtop, check it worked and perhaps end up fitting it. (it did need a different pump fitting - but other than that it piggy backed all the fuel lines) So I set it up and lo and behold - it wouldn’t fire 🔥 😳 same no ignition issue. Now, I’d blown through the pick up pipe when I changed the fuel lines and it seemed clear - but to rule it out I tied a weight to another bit of fuel line and dropped it directly into the tank to bypass the pick up pipe. Lo and behold - the new heater now worked. So this made me think - is all this because the pick up line was blocked or partially blocked? So I tried the original heater with the bypassed pick up … and ….it almost works. The exhaust does get warm and it starts to heat the air, but it doesn’t seem to fully ignite- and I it shuts down with the same error. Thats confusing … I assume this means there is / was more than one thing stopping it working. The pick up and something else … maybe the glow plug isn’t getting hot enough ? I’m waiting for inspiration now. I guess I could try the syringe trick from right at the beginning - and if with that it does fire then it must still be something to do with fuel delivery.

Your searching skills are strong!

… and Fourby have refunded my money but not got in touch to say why … and they are still advertising them. Im assuming they don’t have any. Looks like TG Thompson Winch Solenoids are in very short supply !

The waiting is tough but I don’t see anything untoward or incompetent in it.

This is a major piece of maching - ‘a-la Sid !’

🪒

They’ve come back to me - that is 24v - no 12’s in stock. So I’ve ordered one from Fourby - theirs is plus VAT, so more then it seems.

This is the one that says 24v in the title - but 12v everywhere else … https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255844521459? Ive messaged to be sure before I order.

Actually the 24v one on eBay makes reference to 12v everywhere except the title. I’ll message them.

That’s a hell of a recommendation. thank you. Fourby is the only place I can find that have them in 12v - I can find a 24v one on eBay. Am I just missing it?

It must be torture us asking you about it .. 😬

My Winch Solenoid (Albright type) has developed a fault switching power out - 12v is reaching both sides of the switching circuits, but only one side is outputting 12v to the motor. Ebay seems awash with them, nearly all coming from China - is anyone able to point me at one that is affordable and known to be decent quality please?

Thanks Ross. I’ve only got flexible lines. Tiny workshop.

My set it up is/was going to be regulator on the tank - fixed lines from there to my pull out reel which is the first quick release fitting. Hadn’t really thought about whips on the tools to isolate the fittings 🤔

I was going to fit the regulator either straight to the tank or into the ball valve fitting though … so either would be able to turn it off at the tank I didn’t realise though that they were full flow - kind of makes it a moot point. I suppose it just comes down to the pro for leaving it being the ball valve is easier to turn off - and the con just being that it’s a bit more bulk on the tank with both there. Thank you.

Here’s a daft question: The compressor has a ball valve straight from the tank - I’m going to fit a PCL regulator, would you replace the valve with it or just fit it into the valve? The regulator does 0 - 12 bar - so other than it being a bit more of a faff to turn it to zero, it would seem duplication and more restriction to leave the ball valve there ? Is that right, or is there any other factors I’m missing ?

The question is … who is it from?

Gosh - hard work ! But great result.

Can you prop you phone up, film like 5 minutes of it, and then pop it on YouTube ? 😃🙏🏻

It’s being shared across a lot of the series Land Rover groups on Facebook: