samtope

X-Protect Pedal Safe. (Safe like a safe, banks etc..) X-Eng Pedal Safe G/F says Pedal Police. She wont mind being ignored. She drives a beamer.. 'Pedal vault' even..

Who is the mechanic to tell the owner whether it is or isnt worth spending £500 on? You could easily spend that much on a good set of tyres, is that to say that a road worthy S3 with bald tyres is only fit to scrap?! I think the mechanic should mind his own business to be honest, and let the owner decide for himself. Such capable vehicles easily pay for themselves when worked, and even spending that much on a hobby truck is well worth it if you are fond of the truck. Spend the money and keep it on the road, they dont make them anymore you know!

Took it to the dealership to try the battery idea, they changed the battery and it still did'nt work so it was concluded that the fob and the vehicle were now out of sync with each other. Had to have both fobs re-coded, as just re-coding one renders the other useless. £54 later I will think twice about meddling with fuses as a first diagnosis of electrical issues.. The coffee was free though and I picked up a new interior light bulb while I was about it.

At the moment I dont believe the battery to be at fault because you usually get a bit of warning. This fob had been working first time every time with no sign of fading power. I also think the vehicle makes a 'chirping' noise to warn of a dying fob, accompanied by extra flashes of the indicators etc? This simply stopped working altogether, after my meddling with the fuses.

2002 Def 90 county. My problem began with the interior light which stoped working. I took it out and it appeared fine. I remembered fixing the same problem by changing a fuse once, so I checked the ones that appear relevant, then I checked them all. Everything was fine. Scratched head, checked bulb again. Noticed that the metal contact at one end was loose, and not touching the fillament. Fixed this at it eventually worked again. Tidied up, shut the door, went to lock it with remote key fob, nothing. kept pressing the button, still would'nt lock. Put key in the ignition, and the imobilizer light illuminated and it naturally would'nt start. Went to try the spare key fob though, and it opperates just fine! A couple of hours later and the original fob continues not to do anything. What can I do to get this original fob working again, so I'm not relying only on the spare? Thanks in advance!

Let the air out of the ones not against the house, so they appear punctured, flat, useless? And dont wash it so the whole ensemble draws looks of distain and disgust, rather than envy.. The idea of welding a shopping trolley to each wheel should complete the look. There goes the neighbourhood!

Jeff I think your wife is on here, under the login of tacr2man...! I had many similar grievances during the rebuild of my series, one in particular being the removal of the N/S wing. I did some quick research online to see if there was anything likely to catch me out, I came across a guy who said "its simple spanner work, a thirty minuite job if you stop for a cuppa half way through". I would dearly love to find that man and punch him square in the face. Agree with the tip to tidy up the tools when things are going wrong though and it means you're quick on the draw when you figure it out. Best of luck with that MOT.

I used ratchet straps to take them off and to put them back. Very quick and easy to hook one end to the end of your shoe, and the other to part of your chassis or an axle or a tree if youre parked near one. Good luck!

The worst thing about all this is that I just read an article by the Daily Mail. Expensive cars being stolen and shipped abroad isnt news, The mail trying to scare middle England isnt news and asylum seekers living in my shed and peadophiles in my biscuit tin isnt news! A little more care with expensive cars will prevent many of these thefts..

I found when doing this same job this week on my series 3, that the short drum screw was to blame. When fully tightened the drum was very hard to turn through most of its rotation but when I slackened off that little screw just a little, it turns freely. I do mean the lttle screw on the front off the drum, not the snail on the back.

"What does he mean by the new DVLA ruling? He says is the same cost as any other Land Rover, so surely he must have been paying the same before." You can no longer keep a vehicle unless it is either Insured or SORN'ed. If you own more than one vehicle it means paying insurance on them all. You can't just own it, and insure it on a day to day basis as lots of classic car owners like(d) to do. I have an MOT'ed series parked in my garden that I'd love to be driving around topless this summer on a day to day insurance basis but I'd have to un -SORN it first, not worth the hassle. And I dont want to pay to insure it, and the Defender as well. DVLA website has all the info..

Thanks for those replies, I read the link with interest. To be honest I hav'nt had any running problems, I just know its a common fault and thought I'd check mine to see how it was looking. I'll continue to monitor the situation with a view to replacing the loom in the near future.

Hello everyone, just been doing some preventative maintainance after noticing oil in the plug under the seat. I know this is a common failing, sprayed with switch cleaner and its looking good. I've read the the other end of these wires is attatched to the head, and should be cleaned too. I've removed the plastic covering over the engine to find it. Is it the quite small plug on the left hand side as you look at the engine head on? At the very front of the engine in line with the oil filler cap?

Wickes building supplies is the place I get mine. I use 6m orange ones with a load rating of just over 2000kg. They cost £18 each and are well worth it. Mine see daily hard use holding around 25 colapsed milk trollies each (the kind you take your milk off in the super market) to the insides of my trailer at work. The weak point on all straps is where the strap is attatched to the hook, I found a knot on a knot website that is even more secure than the straps original design and has save me a lot of money in further strap purchases, maybe worth a thought.

You're in Taunton, have you tried Country Rovers between the railway station and health centre? My Series is almost a rolling restoration and I got everything from there..