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bodumatau

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bodumatau last won the day on March 12 2020

bodumatau had the most liked content!

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    Heidenheim, Germany / Maun, Botswana

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  1. yeah sorry guys, should have put down all the facts it has a 3,5 and a ATB ashcroft rear diff, it is VERY peppy !! 😎 through a traffic circle gunning it it will understeer and pick up the inner front wheel, lots of fun even if it isnt completely social behaviour 🤣. I rarely tow on tar and if then something light like a glider trailer at 1,6t, any off-road work in the forest I am a happy low range user, need to let those little gears work too oh and I rarely use 1st gear when town driving anyway so I do think my 1,667 is overgeared. remember she is very light, no body and no roof rack etc. I think the consensus is the same as I was leaning towards which is the 1,4 transfer case, thanks to everyone who took the time to help out with info 🙏
  2. Greetings All, my fun drive is a 1983 110 Hardtop with a RR mega squirted efi that I have run for the past 10 years on an ashcroft R380 and 1,667 transfer box. has been a LOT of fun, mainly short commutes, lots of forest work, awesome having a vehicle that drives like a race car and is a working mule all in high range. my mission profile is changing in the next few years and I would like to do some exploring around europe and hence my question to all of you..... wise V8 owners..... should I go for the standard 1,4 transfer case or should I jump in the deep end and put a 1,2 ration transfer case in? vehicle is relatively light, no hard top roof on and will never have much more than spare wheel, recovery gear, luggage, tent and very light camping gear and a couple days food. no big overland rig or roof rack or the like, my madame prefers staying in B&B or hotel and the camping gear will be for the odd trail night where we don't make it to the next destination (well this is the story I have told her 😉 ) got standard 235/85R16 wheels on my excel ratio calculator tells me that with a 1,2 I will be at 2000rpm for 96kph and 2500 for 120kph which is about the max speed I would drive at. with a 1,4 I would be at 2500 for 103kph and 3000 for 123kph currently with the 1,667 I am at 3000 for 104kph and 3500 for 122kph next question would be whether it is worth it putting an ATB into the transfer case? mission profile would primarily be tar road with the odd bit of off-road.
  3. Mate of mine with a 110 SWA searched himself silly for a leak at passenger side where roof joins windscreen, it turns out it came from the REAR corner of thw roof where a previous repair had caused damage and it ran ALL the way to the front leak on his wife's knee 🤣
  4. one IMPORTANT thing to remember @ThreePointFive, if you seal the bottom of the doors or your footwell then WHERE is the water going to get out when it leaks in through the roof? 😎
  5. no idea if you can run Petrol through the pump, it might be that the lubrication that diesel provides is part of what makes the pump work. what I do know is that the TD5 fuel pump is not the most reliable fuel pump around, we have regular failures on the td5 fuel pump in our fleet. you definitely want to have a hole in your rear floor to be able to access the pump when it does die. perhaps try it out, pump a couple of tanks full of petrol back and forth to a drum and see if the pump lives through it....I would certainly be interested to know if it does work, got a couple of TD5 fuel tanks and chassis lying around that are asking to get a V8 thrown at them.
  6. also check your fuse box under the seat, the brown 12V + feed wire sometimes breaks off inside its insulation and gives intermittent results. check all your relays, TD5's love corroding the relays and causing problems
  7. does anyone know the name of the loom plug that these pumps come with? can you buy the plug with wires to splice it into the loom?
  8. PRC8318 ordered and received in its Britpart box (Britpart is actually a bit of a lie unless "Brit" is a province in China) modified the pump to get to the bottom of my tank, switched it on, it made a whizzing noise but the V8 did not start.... put the output through a clear tube and noticed that it was trying (badly) to suck fuel out of the fuel can when I switched it on.... turned the polarity around and it pumped like a beaut..... seems the factory in the province "brit" wired up the pumps the wrong way around... unless now brown wires are earth and blue are positive?
  9. also remember to seal all holes possible in the seat boxes, if you drive with open windows then your cab is at a low pressure and you "suck" all the hot air into the cabin. I often drive with the dash vents open and the windows closed and the seat box temp drops dramatically - one of those land rover quirks.
  10. pump still intermittent ..... aarrgghhh, so maybe I havent found the fault....luckily a new fuel pump on its way....albeit slowly as the couriers are Corona crippled. another question, actually 2 MSDROID - can you adjust the whole fuelling map by a certain percentage with MSDROID PRO? with the free version you can only adjust the fuel map points one by one. TD5 exhaust - since replacing my standard V8 exhaust (comes out the side) with the TD5 tailpipe I am getting a lot more fumes, I only drive my land without a roof on so never any cab of any sort, it is a 110 hardtop body. - is this why the V8 had its exit to the side? has anyone else experienced this problem?
  11. a little update to the project.. Cummins SA is in the final stages of the installation and has taken the vehicle to the test track for some testing. they hook it up to a truck with a gearbox retarder so they can push the engine to max power and max torque output and then check if the temperatures stabilise under constant load. Cummins team was happy with the temps achieved and using some math will be calculating the Limiting Ambient Operating temperature (important for us in Botswana where 45 degrees in the shade happens every year) this is what it looks like next is to try the standard TD5 cooling pack (radiator and intercooler) and see if they can achieve the same results
  12. fluctuating temperature on the TD5 is often an indication of intermittent power or low voltage or poor earth - sometimes it seems to read "lower" and sometimes it will spike up into the red for a few seconds and then back to normal. check your feed wires into the fuse box under the seat check your earth straps could also be the dreaded oil in the engine harness causing voltage havoc in the ECU check whether your alternator is charging - sometimes the charge wires break off inside the insulation - causing it to work sometimes and sometimes not, very frustrating.
  13. got tired of waiting for parts to be delivered...... dug out my old fuel pump that sounded like a 10 year old lawn mower when it ran..... and it still made noises when I attached it to 12V...... so having an option I decided to take out the defective fuel pump out of the tank and install my old one...... at least to get back on the road. being someone who fiddles I took a closer look at the fuel pump when it was out of the tank and I think I found the problem why the pump stopped working....... this filter was not properly sealing onto the pump, I think I knocked it off while installing the pump or while extending the pipe to get to the bottom of my defender tank then I found something else out.... "fuel pipe" might be fully fuel resistant at its inner core but the outer core might not be, the pipe I had used to extend the pump when installing was delaminating and the outer core was soft and swelled up. once the pump was dried out and had no residual fuel I tested whether the supply wires had continuity, all good, then I tried the pump on 12V and suddenly it worked, it had had something jam it inside because the filter was not on properly. then I took the time to use parts of my old fuel pump to properly extend the support frame to get the fuel pump to the correct length so that I dont run out of fuel with 5ltrs still left in the tank. and finally carefully installed the fuel pump again hoping that I didn't knock off the fuel filter this time around. @Hybrid_From_Hell - Nige my mumble apologies for cussing you via PM that your pump stopped working..... it still WORKS 🤩 hope this helps someone fault finding their fuel pump issues. oh one more thing, when you have the fuel pump out of the tank and busy extending etc.... be careful....the fuel pump has a very strong magnet, so if you put the pump down on a dusty workbench it picks up a handful of iron filings you didn't know you were storing on the workbench and you then spend the next 30 min cleaning them off 🙄
  14. swerving wildly? tie rod broken or tie rod end broken, this joins the two wheels together cause your steering wheel only steers "one" wheel. had this happen to me on a dirt road and it was barely controllable.
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