bodumatau

Hi Jon, my 110 is a left hand drive and the alternator is on drivers side, underneath it is the power steering pump, I will take some pics for you tomorrow .

remanufactured r380 and LT230 from ashcroft have been put in, this CERTAINLY helped, also changed rear diff, checked all wheel bearings, replaced rear drive members and shafts, got the slightest amount of play in my front propshaft but not anything that should make it kangaroo the way it does, have all the bits for a full rebuild of the front axle, ATB diff, heavy duty CV joints and new drive members and shafts but haven't gotten round to it. so there is very little play in the transmission as such, my Td5's which have a lot more wear don't kangaroo anywhere near as much, I am also thinking along the same lines as Bowie 69, that it is the engine electronics (I have a megasquirt system from Nige but didn't want to waste the awesome german summer on installing electronics...)

why do V8's have so much more transmission backlash and how can I change it..can anyone explain it to me? I have a 1983 V8 3,5 efi with a rebuilt gearbox and trf case and and ATB rear diff, front diff is going in shortly but regardless it seems to have a lot more backlash than the Tdi or Td5. can anybody explain me the theory behind this and does anyone know a way to solve it? the most irritating is when I am driving slowly and the backlash gets into a cycle that almost can stall the vehicle at times. only way out is giving gas or changing gear.

I would also go for an A-frame, and take it really slow down the hill, using low range to slow you down, taking a pause every now and again if you are at all worried about the tow vehicle getting brake fade. I have towed big 15t + 4x4 trucks with dead engines and made a plan with air lines to the back vehicle to "ensure" brakes, and I know from experience just when you need the brakes you have jury rigged the system will fail on you, your vacuum pump won't keep up or the terminal running it will overheat or something similar. a good solid A-frame and a slow tow cannot be beaten, we use this for recoveries out of the africa bush and it works very well. if you have a passenger during this phase they can help by applying brakes in the rear vehicle, whilst the brakes won't be very effective at all they will certainly still help (this person needs a strong right thigh)

I doubt old James was too worried about the articulation, he wouldn't be doing much more than driving on a few gravel roads with it or bashing thru a few market stalls, I am also sure the diesel engine will have a wonderful V8 racing engine note to it while James dashes about in it....

thats because you french only load champagne and good food in the back ;-) thanks Arjan

greetings all are the ribs on the load bed really necessary?, the rivets holding them down don't even seem to line up with the channel underneath the load bed, so besides stopping excessive scratching of the loaded I can't see any function for them. I would like to take them out so that my spare fits flush with the wheel arches and I can cover it up with a board, and at the moment it is sitting exactly the 5mm too high that the ribs stick up. my load bed doesn't work hard, no stones or rocks or pallets constantly being chucked in the back so is there any reason I cannot remove the ribs?

Td5's with the high pressure pump and feed back to tank get REALLY hot, never measured it but hot to touch, so I doubt the body warmth or radiant heat from the trf case should really affect the diesel

I use the progressive spring on the front of my 150's, we put the tighter coils at the top otherwise the coil breaks where it constantly touches the retainer plate at the axle side, after about 50k on our terrible roads the plate wears a notch in the coil and it cracks. With the progressive coils at the top they don't do this.

Haven't had the pin come off on normal shocks, had a couple of OME shocks pins and also top rings come off but credited that to the welding, haven't used OME since then. I also don't run any extended or lifted suspension so haven't had to deal with the extreme axle movements

Daah, right you are ! Never having owned a 90 I never even thought of this! Ok, pls disregard my post above about the springs!

Yes but the rear spring is a larger diameter and won't fit into the front spring mount.?

Bush fits inside the piece of pipe, so it only restricts the bush movement sideways, which is what the washer tries to do. Once the washer fails and the little lip centering it in the hole is worn off then the shock shaft starts eating away at the bracket. With my fix the bush can never move sideways, shock shaft can never eat bracket. Only problem is when the washer over the bush (the thick one) touches the pipe which means you have made the pipe too long. Think of it as a "bush retainer" Also.... I am a souf efrikun, so try read my post in "colonial" English

No, all you doing is making a much more robust version of the pathetic washer that goes between the bush and the bracket

I have welded the holes up, then cut a piece of steel pipe with the same inside dia. As the outside of the shock bush, cut it about 8-10mm long and welded that on, this way your bush cannot wear through the washer and spit the washer out resulting in your bush being eaten up, this works a charm. One ring either side keeps the shock bush in place. Don't cut the ring too long or it will hit the shock washers over the bushes.

Looks fine to me, the front springs with the closer coils are supposed to be "progressive" , which I also always mount at the top. Looks like you in for a hard ride on the back though

Make up a proper rear bumper that extends off the rear cross member and jack off that, if you jack on your tub you will tear the bolts put of the aluminium tub

Bodumatau. Bo - Where Duma - call Tau - Lions Place where the lions call... in Setswana spent many amazing safari days lost on Bodumatau island. started in the early 90's with an old broken Unimog.....(hate them) later in my 101, my first land rover and after that came the 130 Td5's and after that the 150 td5's... and you are right that was a good few years ago,the Elephants have turned that sign into liquorice

yes we have those extended sumps on all our transfer cases and they seem to work, get an extra liter of oil in and have some nice cooling fins on the bottom side. we haven't measured the difference but I cannot see it doing anything but good. yes we don't save on oil, only good quality recommended stuff goes in, we buy it by the 200 liter drum so it makes sense. thanks for your input rick. cheers

hmm, want one, just a pity that ashcroft didn't mention the possibility when I recently bought a rebuild LT230 from them.... I am thinking of running them on my land rovers in Botswana, we have heavy rigs and tow big trailers in soft sand and our drivers think diff lock is "only for when you get stuck"..... so the front wheels spin a LOT when that td5 sings..... I am just worried that they will struggle with our extreme heat and extreme loads.

does it help with centre diff backlash too? I wonder how it would hold out to heavy heavy loads?

anybody out there have any experience running one of these?

haha, yes the bug spattered teeth, can't beat them!! thanks for the feedback!! I am busy trying it out and will let you know how it works out.

yes I agree, it is a kerfuffle on a defender to get at when the box is in the vehicle, can reach in over the transfer box but the diff-lock and low range levers are in the way. as boydie says, need to break your arm in 3 or 4 places and stretch your fingers and have eyes on stalks to get at it easily..

Greetings landrovites. I currently have a soft top setup on my '83 110 and being a tall chap am irritated by the over door panels (end up hunching to see out the side and I don't even have my seat raiser in yet.... what experience do the experts out there have running the windscreen without any supports but its funny fitting with 3 bolts. my 110 is mainly on the road, does very little off road work (sadly), does however regularly cruise along at 120kmh. I am worried that my windscreen might break or crack without the support, any tips or ideas? thanks Heiko