bodumatau
-
Posts
371 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by bodumatau
-
-
petrol, oh no!! can't use that!! my V8 might smell like petrol then....haha she does already!! so no worries.... good tip will try
@boydie, don't worry mate, should you ever get roped into doing some dishes immediately start dropping and breaking them and soon you will be "banished" from washing them again... or even better put them away in the wrong cupboard..... then you sorted for life.
always a good tip to be had off the forum, thanks guys
-
so once I peeled off the cream coloured pseudo leather off my dashboard I was pleasantly surprised to find a happy Land Rover vinyl dash underneath that looked fine except for its delightful coating of contact glue
so I tried acetone, which seems to take the solvent out of the glue so you can rub it off with your fingers (and get sore fingers)
tried alcohol (on the glue), just made sticky snot
tried silicone remover = sticky snot....
does anyone out there have a wonder cure? something that works?
rgds
Heiko
-
Thanks guys, I considered buying a tailgate but here in "Land Rover Desert Germany" they are not plentiful, hence I have chopped my back door and will cap it as HFH has.
-
Hello all
I am busy converting my utility to a soft top.
Are there any threads (have searched but not found) that explain how to convert a back door into a side opening tailgate?
And ideas, tips, do's or don'ts.
Thanks
-
that would be great anderzander!!! so I can see how the factory brains think...
anderzander you also answered me about my loom, said you had to reshape yours, got any pics of how you ended up routing it before you closed up.
-
does your battery have enough charge? the chattering is most often either poor charge or poor earth
maybe after your saga yesterday your battery is a flattery
also check the small fuse box next to the ECU, there is a feed wire which goes into the back of it and comes sharp around a corner, this wire often breaks off where it bends and this is often still in the insulation, so it sometimes touches and sometimes not, a bugger to find if the insulation is still holding it all together and hiding the fault from you
-
when trying to take off corroded fasteners I always turn the bolt both ways to clear the thread,
try loosen, doesn't work, try tighten by just a little
if it starts loosening then every half turn turn it back in again the half turn, that way you clear a lot of rust and muck in the thread and the bolts shear off less (says he who often doesn't have the patience to practice what he preaches and is an avid shearer of fasteners....)
that support bar behind your seats? is that standard 90? what does it bolt to? I am asking because mine is a 110 hardtop which I am busy taking the roof off and to make softtop and i am thinking of ways to properly brace the side rails I will then build.
-
Has anyone got some pics of how the wiring loom should run behind the dash/heater box thingy?
My loom comes up behind the heater box and runs under the parcel tray to the instrument cluster resulting in a parcel tray that isn't flat.
Is it supposed to go out into the engine bay and back in behind the instruments? Can't be?
Confused..
-
Seat is as far back as it goes without lifting the rail to get over the lip at the rear of the seatbox, my truck is a hardtop though so the rear bulkhead does limit my backrest, will be cutting out the lip on the bulkhead to gain another 2cm.
The front lower corner of the accelerator pedal is 16cm off the floor at idle.
I have ordered a soft top and once it arrives I will see if I can afford to raise my seat by the 25-30 mm needed to get over the rear lip of the seatbox.
Checked yesterday and the pedal is effective over the full range.
-
hi V8 freak, this is similar to what I have been thinking, was just wondering if there were any "clever" fixes out there I wasn't thinking about, I don't dislike having a "low gearing" as it means I can give throttle with more fine adjustment.
one of my ideas is to simply cut the pedal off, cut out 2cm of the arm between hinge and pedal and weld it back on, suppose that will also change the ratio but at least I don't start with my foot in the air....
-
-
hi carlos, often the relays develop corrosion on the lugs and then stop working because they don't get proper voltage.
the relays rarely break, first thing I do when one of my TD5's starts problems is pull all relays and scrape off corrosion.
check also loose or broken cables in the small fuse box.
loose or broken wire on the AirFlow sensor (this tends to break off INSIDE the insulation so you can't see the break, usually the thicker brown wire just wherein comes out of the plug on the AF sensor)
-
the cardboard screw holder idea is the business!! thanks for the tip, took all the bits apart yesterday to find quite a scary and dangerous array of live, unfused uninsulated spare wires lurking about and taking welding lessons on any unsuspecting bare metal bits.... and this is in a '83 110 where the live comes from a fat wire directly off the starter motor feed. (shudder)
but the real cause of my Elektrickery problems was my flasher, it shorts at the slightest pressure from one side, so when I hit a bump or went around a right bend with some pace it would move and cause a short, so have ordered a new flasher. lets see now if that is the only problem..
-
ashcroft have a great tool on their website to figure out your gearing, also has all the trf case and gearbox serial numbers so all you have to do is look which one yours is, type in all the info and it will spit out a chart with which revs you should have for which speeds, if you not matching up to that then someone has fiddled with the gearing.
I have had some TD5's that pull like a beast in the low revs but went weak at higher rpm but I can't seem to remember what the cause was.
-
doug you will also want to go R380 if you planning to put more than a 3.5V8 in, the higher powered V8's will pop the LT77 at some point.
I am no expert but what I have gleaned form the forums it doesn't make sense bodging a 3.9 into a 4.6 without the proper top hat liners etc, then you might as well start with an engine that is born 4.6..
-
hello fellow landrovites.
my accelrator pedal in my 110 V8 irritates me because it is so high off the floor that when I am not flooring it (i.e. long highway trips cruising at low power settings) my shin gets cramps holding my foot in the high position.
I am quite tall so it is a tight fit overall in the 110 cab, on top of that it is a LHD so there is sodall space next to the pedal but I have the feeling that the pedal is just ridiculously high off the floor.
are there any mods for this? is my pedal maybe mounted wrongly?
any tips would be appreciated.
my RHD TD5 has much better accelerator pedal ergonomics.
-
dangerous doug, the biggest difference in driving the V8 is you no longer have the famous diesel "flat spot" under 1500rpm, which one tends to get used to whether one drives a 200, 300 or Td5 (never driven a TD4 so don't know the difference), and you have an extra 2000rpm to use, the diesels redline at around 4000 and the V8 around 6000, this gives your gears much longer legs and much better gear overlap, when I am empty I pull off in second, run it up to 60kmh and then change to 3rd, which takes me to 110kmh and it feels like you driving a sports car with big tyres on! no defender diesel I have driven can compare to this.
my land rover driving career started in the late 1990's, an ex military 101 that I used for safaris in botswana in the deepest sand and water that just about any land rover will ever see, loaded full with 12 clients + myself and pulling a 1+ tonne trailer that old, tired, low powered (not even 100hp i think), carb driven V8 was an awesome engine, then.... as the company grew I needed newer and more reliable (and less thirsty) vehicles and I progressed thru the 200, 300 and finally TD5, I have only ever driven these vehicles REALLY loaded, most of the lengthened to 150' fully loaded close to their 3,5t max weight and still pulling a 1+ tonne trailer and while the diesels did really well at pulling the heavy loads their only real advantage in my eyes was the slightly lower fuel consumption. but the low end torque of the V8 cannot be beaten....
which is why I bought myself an old 110 with a 3.5 V8 efi and I am loving every second of it, real grunt right from idle all the way up through the rev range till the valves bounce...... and that is from a tinkle little 3.5 with an archaic flapper injection system (before I get lectured about putting an MS in.... Nige's box of tricks is on the shelf waiting to get installed!!! just need to find the time and overcome my fear of eating elephants.)
for a work truck that other clowns drive, diesel is great but for a play truck that only you drive and don't mind the extra fuel bill the V8 is just SO much more fun.
PS I would also throw the extra cash at the 4.6 if I were doing a conversion.
-
but.... the insulation around the pedals and on the passenger side above the feet always ends up sagging, so might be a plan to put a few self tappers in with large washers, then you don't get the pregnant sow look after 2 years.
when the sag gets really bad it even slips out of those retaining plates and becomes a spare cubby hole!!
-
2000km in 3 days..... one of which was packing the glider.....
drove from Maun (Botswana) to 200km south of Windhoek (Namibia) which is a rough 1000km the first day, towing a mother of a trailer built out of a land rover rear chassis and axle, packed an open class glider on the trailer on day 2, drive back to Maun on day 3.
only complications I had..... forgot my wallet, so needed to explain to several policemen why I was driving around without a licence.
customs refused to believe the glider was an aircraft because they couldn't see a propellor..... "that is a boat, why does your paperwork say aeroplane?"
-
I have used veg oil a few times to get home, head out early in the morning on a long bush run and too excited to check fuel gauge (or too stupid), so knowing that my TD5 ALWAYS got exactly 83km out of the tank after the light went on (practiced a few times) I learned to stop at a little roadside shop and thrown in a few litres of veg oil before it got to 83km....., worst problem I had is that you get hungry each time you stop and the fried chips smell catches up with you.
-
282 to be precise. just bought one ;-)
-
don't forget to grease up the lugs and nuts and bolts before bolting them on, this slows down corrosion and helps the earth stay better longer.
your rocking in gear would have been moving the earth strap just enough to make that little connection it needs.
also when you unbolt the earth strap check it hasn't corroded through inside, give it a good fleeing and if it "knicks" then the wires have broken thru and you need a new one. (new is often better as you get rid of corrosion etc)
-
Hi Ian, message sent,
anybody else out there with some ideas for me?
-
certainly a very interesting project, would be interested to hear more when you have tested it a little.
Removing Contact glue? any tips
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Yep, wash one pair of red socks with some white dishtowels and you banned from the washing machine too......