bodumatau
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Posts posted by bodumatau
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one question, does the middle wiper not reach the "stop" top of its travel in your sight field when driving? this would irritate me.
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hey Ian, thanks for the comments, I fully agree that there will be several things I need to change (where do I put my toolbox!!!, as we all know leaving home in a landy without a toolbox is a scary thought), but this landy is a pure toy for me.
I am in the south of germany and people don't lock their cars on the street at night so things are pretty safe. so not too worried about that.
could you take some closer up pics of your setup? how it looks inside? where you beefed up your double hoop? how the top fits to the back of the cab.?
thanks
Heiko
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what I once had was the front pipe to the intercooler delaminated and the inner part "sucked closed" when the engine started and revved up, could not figure it out in the beginning as the delaminated pipe "looked fine", only after fighting with it for several km did the pipe then delaminate to the point that is was visible.
have also had pipes come off after being in the workshop, hose clamps forgotten to tighten..... so check that
or a pipe that the workshop struggled to get off and then split in the process and have simply strapped back on....
do you know the old joke?
"whats the difference between a land rover workshop and a land mine??...... land mine only ****s your car up once"
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Hello Fellow Landrovites.
I am looking at options to convert my 110 Hard top to a "truck cab soft top"
in essence a pick up with a soft top that doesn't interfere with the load bed and no bars or frames over the load bed.
I have found one company, allwheeltrim, that does the whole lot but it is not cheap.... cough....sputter.... trying to breathe... but their stuff does look top notch.
anybody got something like this lying around? or can anybody make a suggestion who else out there makes this sort of thing?
thanks
Heiko
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looking for the part number for the reverse switch for my new R380 I dug this old post up.
great to have soon much info at our fingertips!!
thanks LR4x4!!
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sounds familiar, I once "fixed" a land cruiser by shaking it from side to side, this was enough to make contact for a start or two then it would work again.
worked fine till could get to a toolbox....
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so it is done!!
out went the LT77/LT230 combo and in went the R380/LT230 combo.
went relatively smoothly, few little hitches, my seatbox and tunnel fitted fine, no need to change anything,
- Ashcroft kindly supplied me the R380->LT230 levers (low range and diff lock) and this required minimal adjustment for them to work.
- Bottom Bell housing cover doesn't fit 100%, but it didn't before either so I am thinking there is one type of bottom bell house covering for more than one engine/bell housing option.
- transfer case was missing two M8 tapped holes to fit my handbrake bracket, this was easily drilled and tapped before the trf case went in.
- mountings for the gearbox/trf case bolted straight on.
- reverse light switch is a different thread so need to source a new reverse light switch
- breathers bolted straight on, same thread for the LT77 and R380
certainly a lot less clunky than my old LT77... lets see how she runs when I get a chance to go for a proper run.
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I also find reducing tyre pressure helps greatly if you are not loaded, this requires management however, if you want to load up you first need to up the pressure. Nothing worse than driving around at the silly pressures LR recommends which you only need when your GVM is 3500 kg
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Yep the oil switch is a good idea, this is what I have on my TD5's in bots for their aux battery solenoids, a relay that triggers the solenoid when it has oil pressure.
Disadvantage with that is that engine must run to have lights.... Which is bad and good...
If I just plug a relay directly to a switched live then the lights will pull power when cranking. So need a plan that switches lights off while cranking and on the rest of the time the ignition switch is on..
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I was wondering if ther are any clever people out there who have wired the headlights on a landy to switch off automatically when you turn off the engine, ?
This is something I have been thinking about how to do since buying my '83 V8 as I manage to keep forgetting to switch off the headlights ( been brainwashed by modern cars that think for you)
What would the best way be to do it? Feed the headlights off a switched 12v line? Through relays.
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The td5 thermostat will do that when your battery is failing , had me flummoxed the first time it happened...
So while I agree with the above about the thermostat it could also be a earth or electrical problem..
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@v8 Pete
I have RRC Classic 4-2 cast manifold (same as disco 1 I think) with the twin hole gasket,
then the 2-1 downpipes for the RRC/disco 1, NTC1863 & 1864
then the y piece for the same which ends in a big dia. Flange olive fitting, NTC4061
... Then the older V8 110 silencer, NTC4614
and the older tailpipe silencer NTC1800
All fitted together and works fine (except that am having problems with keeping the push in fitting to the Y pipe from leaking...)
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I was driving my '83 thru a tunnel and pulled out my phone charger out of the cigarette lighter, sparks flew,
there I was at in heavy traffic in a tunnel at 100kmh with my dashboard trying to set itself on fire.... Nerve wracking stuff.
Needless to say when I put my megasquirt in I will be adding a few fuses and relays...
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pulled out the floor trays and loosened all the tunnel screws, in preparation for next Thursday when I have booked a friends workshop with a hoist and some space, don't fancy changing the gearbox on my garage floor at -3 degrees...
got the rear propshaft off (put a new rear diff and sideshafts in so this was part of the job),
all the bits I need (i hope) loaded up in the back of the land rover ready for the swap...
found out that Ashcroft rebuilt gearboxes come with drain plugs with magnets in them, both the R380 and the trf case had nice magnets on their Adrian bolts, BONUS, Ashcroft is a bit silly not to mention extra bonuses like this.... I like it when people think of little details......
one more question I have for those in the know, if you look at the transfer case where the gearbox bolts on the bottom left hole which joins it to the gearbox is open into the casing and will leak if the bolt going into it isn't sealed in some way, do I just smear the bolt with some silicon when turning it in? or is there a gasket (can't see one at the join between my LT77 and LT230).
see my finger pointing at the hole I mean.
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does anyone have the workshop manual for the R380 - LT230 drive train, I would like to see how the linkages etc for the low/high and diff lock and reverse light switch etc are all put together.
(I have checked retroanaconda but his workshop manual only has the LT85/230 setup.. no r380)
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and pulling the gearbox out? what is the easiest way? some timber and a strap in the cab? (short of building a gearbox cradle)
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does anybody out there have photos of the V8 air filter mounting ?
rgds
Heiko
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no problem Mike, I figured it was either an honest mistake or a wicked sense of humour, either way worth the laugh if you saw how quickly I was in the garage measuring my new gearbox!!
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another way to check if the clutch is dragging is if it makes a sound when pushing it into gear from neutral, the more the clutch drags the more "gonk" you have as you go from neutral to a gear. at best at idle with windows open in a garage where you can hear whats going on outside the vehicle.
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the other sad reality is that no matter which clutch or engine you put in if your driver spends his driving day resting his foot on the clutch pedal ("but i am not pushing it only resting my foot on it") then your clutch is going to die at some point..... this is one of the worst habit that surprisingly many drivers have.....best cure is to get them to change the clutch themselves..... in the sand where it breaks down, after that they seem to pay a little more attention
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thanks Guys, yes I should have mentioned the V8
sorry....anyway, Miketomcat got me running to check the length of my 77 against the 380 and I was very relieved when they were the same
will let you know how the fitting goes (next Thursday...)
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Well Mr Ashcroft knows very well that this goes onto a V8 so unless he had a bad packing day I am sure it will be the right one.
my seat box around the gearbox seems to have been modified at some point but not sure how or why...
pete3000 you say "You can get a good idea of the cut require by putting the tunnel cover in and drawing round it onto old seatbox with a sharpy marker"
do you mean by this I need a different tunnel for the R380?
what I have in now is a 3.5V8 with a LT77 and LT230 trf case
@ eds, most of my Land Rover driving has been with TD5 and Tdi on R380 gearboxes working REALLY hard through the Kalahari sands towing heavy expedition trailers and I much prefer the R380 to the LT77... I did have a LT95 once in a 101 which I used for safari for 2 years in Botswana which I also found a bit clunky but less so than my LT77 I have in the V8
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I have considered this but there are so many little bits that I would then have to change, don't know if it is worth it, there is enough space for my pipes to get past the servo, just not enough to do much more than that.
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yep they LOVE cracking on their way out..... my favourite way is a 4 pound hammer to get it out and then a new screen in, that way you save yourself the anger when it cracks.
sorry....
Defender Triple Wiper Upgrade
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
need one of those brushless RC motors... would turn the wipers into a blur...