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Posts posted by bodumatau
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on fridges suggestion I have run a fused switched wire with only a 2A fuse (FF suggested 3A but I couldn't get one) to run the following and it seems to work fine -> ECU power, PWM (Bosch Extra Air valve) and EDIS power
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Mine was also doing that and I seem to have solved it, you can set how long your Bosch valve stays completely open after the start, longest value is 255, that seems to give the engine enough time to find itself and when the valve closes mine dips briefly below 650
(even though I have the idle bypass valve at a higher idle that that, don't quite understand why yet)
And then it settles.
I also found that upping my after start enrichment has helped, but....as I am learning with megasquirt, rather try small increments that changing it by 20% cause then it unbalances something else and that doesn't work again..
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Yep, I should have explained it simpler, it is exactly opposite the wiring diagram and the numbers on the plug.
So if you just wire the 1 to the 3 and the 3 to the 1 you should be sorted.
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Richard, I made the same mistake, IGNORE the numbers on the big main wiring diagram....
Use the other one explanation which has the numbers switched around. This other diagram also shows the one high "wing" on the plug which helps you orientate which way around.
If you have already wired it up the wrong way around (as I did), you can just swop pin 1&3, the pins come out quite easily if you push a thin enough screwdriver in from the front of the plug.
Let me know if you struggle I can send you pics of mine
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Ahem....., yes... Well.....I was aahhmm.... just testing if you were awake FFFrom your target AFR/voltage map it looks like you may have your target voltages the wrong way round, you want to be RICHER at the top of the table, not leaner!
carp....was another one of my brain farts
So now doing it correctly........
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You don't have to open it, it's likely etched into the bottom at the D37 connector end. Mind you, if you take the lid off it should also be on the heat-sink near the serial connector. But with the lid off you can take a photo and post it here and we can tell if it's got a tacho output.
FF, under the big plug is this number, V8 1501 (maybe "V8 1S01"?)
Does that help to decipher the build?
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and what do you pros do FF? most of you on wideband?
how much of a mission is it to change to wideband?
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ahh, perfect, thanks FF, Zackerly what I was looking for...
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can anyone tell me my correct performance figures for the 9.35 V8 3,5L ?
I have 163hp but not sure at which rpm
not sure what ft/lbs torque at what rpm? 220? something around there? at about 2800rpm?
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right, FATBOY, this is what TS got back to me with once I figured out how to ask the question:
0-5V Table range vs 0-1V Sensor output range:
The EGO ADC circuit is able to read voltages between 0 and 5 volts, but most narrow band sensors only work in 0 to 1 volt range.Why the generator fills NB/Voltage AFR table with 5s:All the values generated by the tool have values between 12 and 17 (AFR). When go to save these values into a AFR table that uses Voltage the bin values are limited to 5V as that is the maximum voltage that the circuit can read. Since all the generated values are greater than 5 you will end up with a table filled with 5.0V.Why the engine runs terribly (Rich) with the table at all 5VWhen the ECU scales a 5V value to the 0-1V output range of most sensors It will cause the engine to run pig rich.Bottom line: Our AFR table generator was designed for use with Wideband Sensors only. You need to come up with your own values. We recommend you start with 0.45-0.5V for the entire table, tune VE to match those readings. This is the only range where the narrowband is accurate. Once that is dialed in then you scale the areas you want richer(0.7-0.83V) and leaner(0.3-0.2V)SOOOO.... let me know if you can make that AFR table work if you change your settings to WIDEBAND, (they shows me a screenshot of the initial setup where you choose whether wide or narrow band, might be worth starting a new project, reading off your ECU and putting in wideband from the get go, let me know if you get anywhereas for me, have changed to the "correct" voltage range, buggered if I can feel any difference , but I will keep on trying. -
Megatune refused to work with me...... haven't been brave enough to try it again..... was so grateful that TS was working and that I could get my truck running..... might be time to try again.
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I often just use a good old hacksaw when cutting through the chassis to extend it, tired of get grind sparks in my face.......
need to turn the hacksaw around once you can't reach anymore with the blade, and the last bits in the middle a bit of a fiddle but
mind you these newer thin grinder cutting blades have also changed things, cut much quicker and cleaner than the old fat cutting blades.
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Fatboy ...... I was getting the same 5V AFR table that you pointed out in this post before and emailed TunerStudio to try and figure it out.......
doing this I have learnt a few things.....
1. DONT ASK THEM MORE THAN ONE QUESTION PER EMAIL.......they only answer the last one
2. they don't really know why this happens
3. they have no idea how to fix it
4. they recommend wide band but not sure how to stop the program giving you a AFR voltage table
5. they say the voltage table is because of narrowband
so, if you are as confused as me about the information above then good...... I won't feel so alone.....
still trying to get more info out of them, maybe my simple language one question emails will finally get through to them.......on a level they can answer.
one thing they did write to me was that the narrow band sensor voltage range should be between 0-1V, sent me a chart and all, very mathematical, but then why does the program spit out 1-5V? how can that be if the program has the right math formulas?
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we often used brake fluid as a release liquid, not sure how healthy it is for the seals and rubber etc.... but it seems to have worked.
sometimes also helps giving it a smack in the OPPOSITE direction to that you want to pull it off.....might move a millimetre and then loosen and allow to pull it back and off.
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I KNOW!!!! almost sounds like an instruction manual to make a bomb.......
"now you insert an electric motor running on 12V into 80 litres of highly flammable petrol"......
"then as redundancy connect your fuel gauge to 12V, just in case your fuel pump doesn't blow you up"
and we drive around with these........
nerve wracking....
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fatboy, the manual is written by people who understand electronic injection and know whats going on FOR people who understand electronic injection and understand whats going on.
Newbies like us just have to bump our heads till we see the light.......
Bump
Ow..... it hurts......
Bump
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you mean I have to open the magic black box? won't smoke come out?
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good thing then that I am wildly changing values in my MS without having a cooking clue whats going on......
bit of Jeckel and Hyde and hoping Frankenstein comes alive....
off to tamper some more, if you hear a far off THUD of an explosion then this might be my last post ......
Bowie?
"where I it from?" ...... is that english? ..... I have an excuse as I come from the colonies, I am allowed to make grunting noises and expect to be understood......
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a bit nerve wracking pushing 12V live through a full tank of fuel.... must admit I wasn't quite at ease.....
my gauge has a number on it: PRC3107, the 12V feed only works connected one way around, so must be some sort of diode inside too.....looking at the back of the gauge the 12v goes onto the right side lug and the green/black wire to the tank on the LEFT lug.
my sender unit didn't work with the earth at the bottom, had to be in the middle and now it seems to be working fine, lets see if it shows me as the tank empties.......lets see.
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hey fatboy, I too am struggling to get my head around all this.
I think the AFR table is voltage from your TPS, so that the ECU can calculate your TPS position, relate it to your MAP and AFM and fuel given from your injectors and with all that info figure out a good VE table for you.
one thing I did learn on Saturday is that your exhaust system has to be in good form when auto tuning, one of my connections (directly behind my Y-piece where my NB Lambda sensor is) came apart during an autotune drive and TS autotuned it so rich it wouldn't run anymore..... after fixing the VE table manually I tuned it on the way home again (after bolting the Zorst together again) and she was running fine by the tie I got home.
I am fiddling today trying to get my startup better and once that is done and I have done a tuning run I will post my current settings, maybe you can glean something from them.
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thanks Nigel, PM sent.
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well then I suppose I just have to wait till Nigel feels like getting back to me........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... .......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... .......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
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problem with those steering wheels is the top goes completely porous, like a scuffed sponge, great for absorbing sweaty hand grease ,land rovers attempt at giving its drivers cleaner hands , but nothing can polish the porous out, better to just cover it up.
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what I use in my defender with music in is some ear defenders, put them on and you can hear a lot more of the music than before..... try it.
in fact ear defenders should be standard equipment in any defender......
Which wires where on fuel tank sender unit???
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
ok so now I have a new PRC7313 blue box gauge from a known supplier, fitted to the tank sender which is also a newish blue box and I am only getting reading between FULL and HALF......
any ideas what I am doing wrong?
same for the older sender unit, also only shows from FULL to HALF.
(at first I SUSPECTED it might be a 24V gauge but that is another part number.... PRC7314, so that rules that out.)