JMZ153

Thanks for the reply. Will try source down a second hand set

Hi guys. I’m not sure if this topic has been covered yet. I currently have a 1989 90 which is fitted with a hardtop. I’d like to convert it to a soft top and have a spare set of hood sticks from a series swb lying around. Will these fit on the 90? I’m aware that the horizontals will need to be made longer but will everything else fit, such as the frames over the doors?

Thanks Simon.. Ill plan to get the engine out How can i test the seal for leaks before putting the engine back in??

Yes both seals were original - At least the price reflected this... To be honest i found replacing the T seals quite easy.. I have also noticed that on flat ground there is almost no leak.. but when im on a down hill, the leak is very heavy, almost a constant drip..???????

Hi Nigel, Im from Malta and can give some advice.. Tell your friend to contact me..

Brake lines are 3 months old - copper and braided +2 flexible. Fluid is new too

Looks like the T seals didn’t make a difference.. what do you all think, engine out again and yet another new rear crank seal??

Hi all, im having issues with my defender brakes. I have a 1989 90 with a 300tdi, rear 24 spline axle and 10 spline axle in the front. last April, my brake pedal kept sinking to the floor slowly so decided to change the master cylinder and got one for a 110 (I was told it’s better) this solved the issue but brakes were never perfect. - the car would stop but not as powerful as they were before.. recently my brakes started getting worse and worse, some times they would stop the car immediately other times, the pedal will go hard but the car will not stop immediately. Lately the 90 started pulling hard to the left when braking, and the pedal slowly sinks to the floor again. I found the front driver side caliper piston seals were leaking, replaced then but the car remained the same, I have checked the vacuum and that is fine. PS. The pedal still slowly sinks. Any ideas???

New seals in place... trial tomorrow - fingers CROSSED!!!

Hi everyone, I have bought a few of those ‘T’ Seals and a new rear crank seal for worst case scenario.. i have also notcied that my clutch fluid level is going down quite fast.. could this actually mean that the slave cylinder is leaking hydraulic fluid into the bell housing and draining out of the wading hole looking like engine oil due to the dust from the clutch??

Good evening everyone.. last month i replaced the rear crank seal rank seal as I had oil leaking out from the bellhousing wading plug. All has been good until now.. the past couple of days I have noticed oil leaking out again!! This time, much more.. I have spoken to a local agent and he said that it probably is the ‘T’ seals now. He also said that the engine will need to be removed from the 90, drained from oil, flipped over, sump removed and worked on like that.. my question is, can the seals be replaced with the engine in place from underneath the vehicle?? I don’t have any experience with these seals but usually do all the jobs on my 90. Maybe if some one has some photos to point out where these seals actually are, I can understand the type of job it is... thanks

the centre gears in the middleof the differential broke. What caused it is a mixture of things... Offroad abuse, Towing a a tow truck up a hill (First sign that it was going - Noise), and the final thing was the MOT guy put it on incorrect rollers..

Good morning everyone, Two days ago i broke the differential inside the lt230 transfer box on my 90 (300tdi with r380). Last night I replaced the differential without removing the transfer box from the car.I managed to reinstall the replacement differential without removing the selector shaft/fork. Closed everything up, attached front prop shaft, engaged diff lock, engaged gear, tried to rock the car and it moved freely.. any ideas to what is going on? Thanks, James

Good morning everyone, Two days ago i broke the differential inside the lt230 transfer box. Last night I replaced the differential without removing the transfer box from the car.I managed to reinstall the replacement differential without removing the selector shaft/fork. Closed everything up, attached front prop shaft, engaged diff lock, engaged gear, tried to rock the car and it moved freely.. any ideas to what is going on? Thanks, James

Ok I'll see what he has. He has told me that it is already removed and there is no wiring with it :/ He has informed me that it is the complete system so I'll make sure that the thermostat housing elbow is included. Thanks.

Hi guys. I'm looking to fit an air condition system in my 1989 300 tdi 90. Here in Malta I cannot find any system worth buying (without selling a kidney). I have been approached by a guy who has a complete a/c system off a discovery 300 tdi for sale. Can this be made to fit in my 90 or is the set up completely different?? Be patient with me, I know absolutely nothing about a/c systems and how they work!

Checked the wheel and there was no movement.. Decided to open up the hub.. Clean everything, regressed the bearings, re fitted the hub and the squeak has gone

I don't know if anyone else here has come across this before.. For some reason whilst driving normally there is a very slight squeak (barely noticeable unless your trying really hard to listen) coming from the front passenger (left) hand side.. At slow speeds, when turning to the right, the squeak gets much louder and is very frustrating especially when people start staring at you in a weird way... I have removed pads and cleaned them, cleaned where they sit and was advised by the local garage to fit this special 3M tape on the back of the pads to absorb any resonance.. at first it helped, first time i pressed the brakes and turned right, it came back slightly and from then on the noise is back.. And i have also made sure that disc guards are clear.. Back at the garage, i removed the pads again, cleaned up the callipers well with compressed air and put back together.. same thing happened.. Could it be that the springs of the caliber pins are not as strong as they are supposed to be and the pads are slightly rubbing on the disc?

Cleaned out the breather pipe properly and leak from the transfer box has topped.. It wasn't completely blocked, just slightly.. Just have a leak from the oil seal where the front prop meets the transfer box..

So TBox needs to come out again right?

It smells as though it is EP90 but its quite dark for EP90...

Hi guys, As i mentioned in another post, I've changed back to a 300 tdi in my 90 (from a 3.9 v8 and auto box).. NOTE, I swapped the v8 and auto box for the 300 and r380 but kept my transfer box.. First I had a problem with a dodgy clutch pedal and i managed to sort that problem by adjusting the pedal height.. now there is an even bigger problem..... An oil leak from the transfer box. Yesterday i went to the local garage, the guy i got the engine and gearbox from for some advice.. he suggested changing the oil seal on the transfer box.. So i bought an oil seal, took out the transfer box (which is a nightmare), replaced the oil seal and put it back in, paying attention not to damage the new seal.. today i gave it a test drive and oil is still leaking out, at the same amount and speed as it was before i changed the seal.. It looks as though it is leaking from the joint between the gearbox and the transfer box. I also noted that for some strange reason the oil that is leaking and the oil that was drained from the transfer box prior to removal is a very dark brown (this oil was only in the transfer box for a day and approximately covered 10 miles.. Are there any other seals that could be knackered? Has this ever happened to anyone else?? Thanks, James

Thanks to everyone who replied.. Culprit was pedal adjustment.. Adjusted it again and works like a dream.. everything was new (clutch, slave, master).. Thanks again

So I've just put a 300tdi and r380 into my 90.. Started it today and bled clutch. Tried to drive the Landy and clutch doesn't have much travel down, when engaging gear with clutch pressed the 90 does move slightly as if it's hitting the biting point. Reverse gear is also very difficult to engage.. Any idea what it could be? Setting? Clutch? Clutch not bled properly??

Tire size is 285/75/16. Transfer box is a1.4 and its automatic