Hectichaggis

Hi Jon w.. mine is still the base Sankey widetrack (unconverted) but it’s on black boost style alloys with 30mm spacers to match my defender. ive got the canvas cover + a removable steel frame and larger canvas that makes a great set up for camping. i can include the NATO tow-hitch and adjustable tow plate with slider plates for tow all and NATO hutch so you can easily swap between different towing systems. ive got the COrris grey vehicle paint that I had planned to get it painted to match the defender but never did. also got the rotating attachment so the jockey wheel can swing through 90 degrees to keep out the way of the rear spare wheel. any interest to you?

Thanks guys. So, I’ve been using it inside out...who knew..not me clearly. 🤔🤣

Would a sliding door work? - slide away from the fence, would remove issues with reducing head height and be cheaper?

Well it was fun, but time has come for me to part company with my beloved defender "ZiPPy" She has found a new family way down in Dorset, so I hope the they have as much enjoyment as we did up here in bonnie Scotland!

Hi, Added some chequerplate to the front frame of my Sankey to give a little more usable storage. Can strap boxes, spare wheels etc on top of this. Cheap and easy to do. Cheers

just in case anyone is looking for cost-effective ideas to modify their trailer into a camping rig: I wanted to create something that could be used for camping or events, but also didn't prejudice the use of my trailer for "normal" trailer duties, such as lugging logs or runs to the tip. So, I bolted some of these galv railing base fixings to the trailer and then I can quickly and easily mount galvanised steel tubing (like the frame from polytunnel) as a frame. Then I throw the canvas hood over the top and hey-presto we have a fairly decent camping rig set up. The photo doesn't do it justice as its not as neatly secured as it would be normally.

Hi - I was worried that the jockey wheel on my Sankey trailer might get in the way or hit by the spare wheel on the back of my Defender. So, I sourced and bought one of the fixings that lets the jockey rotate through 90 degrees, so it lies flat along the side of the Sankeys nose... Problem is that my sankey doesn't seem ready made for this so it'll need a bit of modification. I'm happy to do this if I was keeping the trailer, but I'm going to list it for sale. Do you think I should try to sell the fixing on its own or include it with the trailer listing? Cheers

So, I've got a canvas hood which I believe came from a 101. It's got 2 windows per side, so it seems slightly unusual compared to most of the ones I see on a google search. I use it with my Sankey on a removable frame - as the extra size makes a great canopy for events or camping.. What can you tell me about this - have I dropped the ball? Cheers

Having run out of time with my camping trailer project, I'm regretfully going to sell it. Just wondering whether there's likely to be good demand? How are Sankeys selling these days?

So I recently bought an ex-mod "sankey" style trailer for use as a dump-runner and a camping rig. Its got the fixed towing eye, so I have fitted a rotating NATO hitch to my NAS tow-step. Although the trailer sat pretty "nose-down" it wasn't too bad. However I have now replaced the original wheels with a pair of alloys that look pretty like my Boosts. These, with the big tyres, have exaggerated the nose-down effect, so I'm thinking I might want to lower the position of the tow-eye...I think I've seen that it can be done, but is it a huge job - bearing in mind its got a hydraulic brake ram behind it etc? Also have found that when fitting the alloys, they are not sitting back against the trailer hubs properly. It seems this is because of the nuts on the trailer hubs - they protrude against the inside of the alloys. Does anyone know if this can be fixed by fitting 30mm wheel spacers? If so, I can only buy them in packs of 4 so will have 2 spare ...anyone looking for a pair and want to go halfers? Cheers Doug

Hi, So I got the defender and have been slowly adding bits: roofrack, ladder, chequerplate, kbx grill and light surrounds, steering guard, jate rings, tow-step and now LED spotlights to the rack (have posted queries separately about wiring these) I decided in the end to keep the Boost alloys rather than sawtooths and have had them powder coated black. The centre caps are plastic so can't be coated, but I rubbed them down with steel wool and sprayed them with exterior grade paint and they came up a treat. Getting pretty favourable reaction all round and am loving my defender. Thanks to everyone so far for various advice and help. Cheers Doug

Hi Guys, thanks for the advice. I've bought the switch and connector, but wonder whether you can advise me on whether I need a particular rating of wire or relay? My spots are 36 watt each LED and I'll be wiring 2 at the front off one switch linked to headlights. Thanks again Doug

Hi, So, I have gone round in circles on this one.... was initially thinking I'd replace the standard boost alloys on my 110 with a set of 16" sawtooths when it arrives. Now though, I reckon I'm just going to have the boosts powder coated. I've looked around and ideally want the centre caps to be black to match the new wheels, but there seems to be different size caps out there and I can't find anything definitive to say what diameter the centre caps are on a new defenders boost alloys. Anyone able to tell help me out? (Any thoughts on whether I'm making a mistake getting them powder coated also welcome) Cheers Doug

Thanks for the thorough advice Paul and everyone. On a related point, when buying the towball - is there anything I need to look out for or will any one do? Thanks again Doug