rrr47

When you say "it chews through plugs", what do you mean? Can you not file the electrodes and re-gap the plugs? What kind of plug leads are you running? I had terrible problems with my 3.9 on lpg, changed the leads to "Formula Power" 10mm leads and have had no issues since, touch wood. Also, have you adjusted the lpg mixture? It may be running a little too lean. http://www.formulapower.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_332_1506_1508&products_id=1988

Just if any members are interested, found this for sale locally. http://www.gumtree.com/p/land-rover/petrol-landrover-discovery/1100546709

If you do waxoil the chassis inside, buy yourself a load of rubber grommets, block off as many hole as you can and pour in the oil, lift the chassis one end, then the other, as many times as you can. Me and mate did this with his series 3, it's surprising how many holes there are in a chassis.

I am not sure with a Discovery, but on a BMW I worked on the outside temperature sensor was behind the front grill and I have seen the sensors in wing mirrors. My outside temperature sensor is located on the 'B' post attached to the rear door hinge on my R/R Classic, but it's a "Lidl" £2.99 item, with DIY fit.

I think the modern matt paints manufacturers are using are just as easy to keep clean as gloss, I have seen a few new cars now in matt and the surface is smooth, not rough or textured.

Just checked with a file, they are brass. The lady in the shop had no idea what they were and wanted rid of them.

Picked these up today for 50 pence from a charity shop, chain checks or tighteners. C clamp is worth that on it's own.

Excellent models, they must take a lot off time to make. I have Airfix/Tamiya plastic kits still waiting to be completed.

Grease seeping from swivels? That's factory isn't it?

What do other members think of this idea? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-SUV-Anti-Rear-end-Anti-Collision-Taillight-Warning-Lamp-Alarm-Laser-Fog-Lamp-/221622322417?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

They advertise a lot on Car and Classics web-site, whom I'm sure would be very interested in Walton's business practices.

Are they called Walton 4x4 or Walton Motors? http://www.waltonmotors.co.uk/

Can you mount the plenum chamber on backwards so the air inlet is on the other side, your passenger side? I have seen them pointing to the left, you appear to have more room that side.

It does sound like reverse polarity, but there would be a huge spark when connecting or disconnecting the battery. Are you sure the battery is correct? I.E. Polarity, could be faulty. Does the alternator look like it's been changed? If someone has put an alternator on from another car it could be running backwards. How old a car are we talking about?

On my Classic 3.9 I used loads of extension bars so I was ratcheting in front of the engine, I think there is only two bolts though.

I assume your idea will work with bonnet mounted spares as well.

Could be your ignition switch as well.

I agree, no quick glance, you have to really look to check, but if you are stuck for space.

There are metric and imperial wheel nuts. I have scrapped loads of Discos and Rangies over the years and my stainless wheel nuts are from various cars, and, some fit a 27mm socket, some are very tight.

You could go for a twin gauge such as below and have space for further instruments.

Mine ended up on 33/12.50 x 15.

That is a huge jump in tyre height, from 29 inches to 32.5, with no gain in width, I assume you have cut the arches. Anything less than 5% increase/decrease is ok for gearing, so with a Disco/Rangie it is just under 1.5 inches, so a 265/70 x 16 is just about ok, but not on standard arches. The biggest I managed on my Discovery before cutting the arches was 245/70 x 16.

Does the voltage of the dead battery have to be lower than the good battery? My cordless drill has one good battery, one bad, could I jump start from the same voltage?

I have always used the bicycle chain type, I got one free years ago with a gallon of GTX and it has never let me down. I also won a different type in a competition and that seems OK on not very tight filters. Links below. 1st type : http://www.amazon.co.uk/CLARKE-FILTER-REMOVER-WRENCH-60-140mm/dp/B007JCA4XU/ref=sr_1_100?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1422732710&sr=1-100&keywords=oil+filter 2nd type : http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-380056-Oil-Filter-Wrench/dp/B002QRYEZC/ref=sr_1_23?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1422732613&sr=1-23&keywords=oil+filter Don't buy this type : http://www.amazon.co.uk/DRAPER-SQUARE-CAPACITY-FILTER-WRENCH/dp/B00863024M/ref=sr_1_88?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1422732698&sr=1-88&keywords=oil+filter

http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C579032 http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C579026