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Mean Green

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Everything posted by Mean Green

  1. Interesting points raised. I agree it is purely aesthetics and serves no other purpose - and is very much an each to their own scenario. I like the panoramics on a 90, but I think it does not look right on a 110 (esp a SW). One thing that I did notice - I saw a photograph of an Original 90 with pano's sat beside a new 90 - suddenly the lineage became apparent and I could see a likeness that I had never seen before. (Although, Thats not why I am doing it... it is just something I quite fancy )
  2. That is my understanding - I want my interior trim to fit to finish the inside. As you say it is just for the look.
  3. Thanks for the feedback guys, that helps a lot. No point, paying to have sides painted for them to be completely hidden ... means I can use the extra ££ for more goodies
  4. I am planning on fitting panoramic glass as part of my rebuild - is any of the original side panel visible with Panoramics fitted? My side panels are currently a different colour to the rest of it. I just wonder if I need the added expense of getting them painted, only to be covered up? Some close up pics of panoramics fitted would be great too.
  5. Simon, you are you using for painting? I have the 90 rebuilt on galv chassis and and getting bodywork ready to paint, but have been let down by a painter - who are you using locally? (feel free to PM me rather than post) Greg
  6. Can anyone give me a part number for item 3 below - for some reason the online Microcat that I was using would not give me the part number.
  7. I labelled all the cables and have all the parts labelled in boxes for each section... bulkhead, doors etc ... but I didnt take pictures of the strip down
  8. Slackened off the tank this morning, just in case there was enough 'slack'. Had a good look and it appear that I am missing one of the tub floor pads, but it still does not look like it will haev enough clearance - even with a spacer in place. Will order some up and see what happens. In my enthusiasm to pull it all apart I didnt take any photographs... wish I had now!
  9. Exactly my set up Litch - even the same colour! My tub edge is sitting on the tank and there is a gap of a few mm between the chassis and tub floor. It is also new YRM tank brackets - will have a look and see if bracket can drop any.
  10. Should there be shims between the chassis and rear tub on a 200tdi 90? I have my refurbished tub back from the painter and a new galv chassis. But the tub is fouling on the top of the fuel tank and will not sit down onto the brackets on the chassis, should there be shims between the chassis and tub? I know there is a pad - presumably as an aid to stopping vibration, but should there also be shims to adjust the tub alignment on the chassis?
  11. The rear tub for my 1993 200tdi 90 is at the coachworks ready to get painted. The spray painter has asked me to confirm the paint colour. There are no paint markings on the vin plate. I know it is Coniston Green but searching all the resources I can find throws up 2 paint codes - LRC570 & LRC.570(b) - but I cannot find any information to confirm the difference. Can anyone help? I know there is another Coniston Green code LRC637 - but that is for later 1998+ models, so I am sure it is 570. But what is the difference?
  12. James that would be great if you could do a side by side comparison?
  13. Ahh... that might be the case ... i forgot about the pre tdi 2 piece door cards. I just keep reading that to replace ealier doors with td5/puma version you need new door cards. maybe they mean lift handle door cards wont fit. So maybe my question should be - are tdi and td5/puma door cards the same??
  14. My 90 rebuild is going well and I have now decided to go the whole hog and replace my doors as the respray cost to include the doors in addition to the tub is not too bad. I have been looking at the options and like the idea of the TD5 onwards one piece steel doors - but I read that the older door cards do not fit. Can anyone confirm if they have successfully fitted old style door card to the new style door? The other option is the SP fully galv'd ones - but I am hearing that SP quality is hit or miss and customer service is close to nil - any comments??
  15. Snagger - exactly what I did too. Makes a huge difference and once soundproofed and carpetted will be great. I was luck that I had the side skins off so I could easily get in with a grinder. Trying to cut them out with sides in place could be a pain.
  16. Thanksfor all the comments.. bulkhead has gone. After watching a few YouTube videos and posts on other forums I decided I like the 'clean' look of a full removal, so i got the deletion bar from Rimmer. I also cut away the flanges that are left on the seat boxes to give a finished look. It is part of a full tub refurb which includes new skins and panels all round. Pretty happy with it so far - just need to find someone who doesnt want the earth to spray paint it for me. I should be taking more pics of the rebuild- but I keep forgetting!🙄
  17. So my 200tdi rebuild continues and I have moved on to body work. I am starting to refurbish and replace the panels on the rear tub. Should I fit a bulkhead removal bar while I am at it? Can anyone post pictures of a fitted bar please (I think it will probably be a YRM piece that I use). Does it make much of a difference to space in the cab - I am 6'4 and although I have always found the cab 'cosy' I would not say I was cramped. Are there any other positives or negatives to consider? Cheers
  18. Has anyone successfully replumbed the fuel tank on a 200tdi 90 to fit newer style wings with the fuel filler at the rear rather than at the drivers door? Where do you run the filler pipes?
  19. Thanks guys. I knew there must be something missing - it was starting to drive me mad. Looks like I need to get someone to re-fabricate the flanges on the janspeed exhaust then.
  20. I am a little confused. I have had a Janspeed Stainless exhaust on my 90 for 15+ years (probably nearer 20) - but it is now leaking at the flanges - which are corroded and obviously only mild steel. I have a standard mild steel exhaust in the garage and have fitted that - but I cannot work out where the mount should be for the back box. The front pipe is fine with the gearbox mount and crossmember mount and the tail pipe mount is fine on the crossmember, but there is another hanger on the back box which is currently hitting the chassis. Where should the hanger be? It is a new Shielder chassis and I am wondering if there is something missing?
  21. There is a little rust on my bulkhead, esp around the hinges and along the top under the windscreen seal. I have given it a good prod with a scraper and screw driver and the metal is sound only one area which i would describe as a little deeper than surface rust. What is the best thing to treat the rust with before painting. I have used Kurust in the past with mixed results, but in fairness I didnt really take the time to prepare the sufaces and just slapped it on. Any recommendations? I will also spray the inside of the bulkhead with waxoil or dinatrol when I put it back together and hopefully slow the rot from the inside. (I should have sprayed it 15 years ago when I changed the bulkhead - but hey ho, hindsight is a great thing)
  22. Thanks folks. The hole does not look to be corroded but I might try can run a 14mm drill through the hole. I currently have the rod in place with a couple of m12 bolts in as locating pins, but I will pull the rod back off and try the bolts through the bushes just to be sure.
  23. My lockdown rebuild is continuing painfully slowly, but it is getting there. Refitting all the steering components and am confusd by the Pan Hard rod bolts. I had cut the old ones off as they had seized, so I cannot check the sizes. However, according to Microcat and every other reference I can find it says the bolts are M14 x 80 (part number BH114617 - with the alternative being an M16 from chassis 2A onward) I was planning to order nice new SS ones from YRM, but working about in the garage today I came across a couple of M14 x 100 and thought I would see if they would do the job. The bolts do not fit through the bracket on the chassis or steering box - it is very close but will not go. Is there another version of the Pan Hard Rod bolt? 13mm or I suppose 1/2 ?? If so does anyone have a part number? It is a 1993 200tdi 90.
  24. The filler plugs on both swivel hubs are rusted solid and are at a real risk of rounding. I have tried soaking with both WD40 and plus Gas but it is not helping. Can I fill the hubs through the top swivel pin?
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