Mean Green

Doh!!! Time to admit stupidity!! Turns out TD5's are a bit sensitive to things like battery clamps that are not tight!! I am too used to my tdi which only needs the clamps to be touching the terminals to start. Tightened up the battery clamps and away she went! Happy days!!

Situation is - 2000 TD5 ES - Genuine 20,000 miles (20,007 to be exact). Obviously has not done much in its lifetime, mostly due to ill health of the previous owner. Last MOT was 2019 (20,005 miles!). It was apparently started every few weeks up until about a year or so ago but nothing since then, but battery had been regularly hooked up to a charger. When the battery was connected, interior lights etc came on and ignition barrel led illuminated. At 1st position, dash lit up as expected - glow plug light and all usual warning lights etc fuel pump could be heard. Turn to start position, as soon as it was turned it gave a 'click' and everything went out. (single click, similar to a fuse blowing, rather than a starter click when trying to turn). Disconnect and re-connect battery, same happens. I assumed the battery was breaking down under load and bought a new battery - same thing happens. Could it be immobiliser? or something else obvious. It has been about 15 years since I last had a TD5, and I am more used to the simplicity of a TDi - none of this electronic witchcraft! Any suggestions greatly received, I need to get it shifted ASAP, and the position of it if not straightforward for a recovery truck to get in.

As soon as I switch on the ignition the indicator relay starts to click. No warning lights on the the dash and no indicators flash, but the relay constantly clicks.Am I right in saying this is likely to be an earth issue?I am just finishing my full rebuild and have replaced all the external lamps with LEDs.I had the issue during the rebuild when there were no lamps fitted to the vehicle at all. Once I connected everything up it stopped and all of the lights were working - seemingly randomly it started clicking again.Any ideas?I have the RDX LED relay fitted that was supplied with the LEDs and also the 'earth fix kit' which stops the cross feed on the dash warning light that make all 4 indicators flash when either direction is selected on the stalk. I have also tried another electronic type flasher relay.

I should know the answer to this - what is the grey econseal plug at the rear crossmember on a 200tdi 90? I cant recall it ever being plugged into anything.

Is there a definitive list - or even better diagram - showing all the earth points on a 200tdi 90? Having stripped it more than 2 years ago, I am struggling to remember where the earths should be.

Simon - i know your CSK and the condition it was in a good few years ago when it was moved from its temporary home with SteveRR.... assuming you have not done anything to it in the intervening period is would say it is crunch time - either spend the time (money) fixing it up, using it and enjoying it.... or sell it on and allow someone else to fix it up, use it and enjoy it. There are far to many RRCs (and other classic cars) slowly rotting away. That was the stage i got to with my 90 - it had been off the road for about 3 years due to a rotten chassis - prior to that it had done about 5/6k miles in 10 years. I got to the point that i had to either let it go or get it going. Thankfully lockdown came along just at the right time and I had 4 months to work on it and rebuild on galv chassis. Then I went back to work after furlough and not had time to finish it - but it is getting there and will be back on the road in the next few weeks. I have no plans to ever sell it - had I been given a decent offer while it was a crumbling pile of rust I would have seriously thought about it. But now its life has been extended with galv chassis, doors etc it is now for keeps. Worst case, then a conversion to leccy might be on the cards in a few (lot) of years.

I am getting towards the final straight of my 'lockdown' Defender rebuild. So far everything has gone back together pretty well. However, my power steering sounds like Chewbaka. Am I right to assume it is likely to be an air lock in the system and just needs bled - or could it be something more sinister??

Strange ... seems they blow hot and cold... just 2 minutes ago read a post on defender2.net from a regular poster saying how great they were. Never used they myself so no 1st hand experience. But from what I read it seems 50:50 whether I would ever use them.

Interesting points raised. I agree it is purely aesthetics and serves no other purpose - and is very much an each to their own scenario. I like the panoramics on a 90, but I think it does not look right on a 110 (esp a SW). One thing that I did notice - I saw a photograph of an Original 90 with pano's sat beside a new 90 - suddenly the lineage became apparent and I could see a likeness that I had never seen before. (Although, Thats not why I am doing it... it is just something I quite fancy )

That is my understanding - I want my interior trim to fit to finish the inside. As you say it is just for the look.

cheers Reb ... any advice most welcome.

Thanks for the feedback guys, that helps a lot. No point, paying to have sides painted for them to be completely hidden ... means I can use the extra ££ for more goodies

I am planning on fitting panoramic glass as part of my rebuild - is any of the original side panel visible with Panoramics fitted? My side panels are currently a different colour to the rest of it. I just wonder if I need the added expense of getting them painted, only to be covered up? Some close up pics of panoramics fitted would be great too.

Simon, you are you using for painting? I have the 90 rebuilt on galv chassis and and getting bodywork ready to paint, but have been let down by a painter - who are you using locally? (feel free to PM me rather than post) Greg

Can anyone give me a part number for item 3 below - for some reason the online Microcat that I was using would not give me the part number.

I labelled all the cables and have all the parts labelled in boxes for each section... bulkhead, doors etc ... but I didnt take pictures of the strip down

Slackened off the tank this morning, just in case there was enough 'slack'. Had a good look and it appear that I am missing one of the tub floor pads, but it still does not look like it will haev enough clearance - even with a spacer in place. Will order some up and see what happens. In my enthusiasm to pull it all apart I didnt take any photographs... wish I had now!

Exactly my set up Litch - even the same colour! My tub edge is sitting on the tank and there is a gap of a few mm between the chassis and tub floor. It is also new YRM tank brackets - will have a look and see if bracket can drop any.

Should there be shims between the chassis and rear tub on a 200tdi 90? I have my refurbished tub back from the painter and a new galv chassis. But the tub is fouling on the top of the fuel tank and will not sit down onto the brackets on the chassis, should there be shims between the chassis and tub? I know there is a pad - presumably as an aid to stopping vibration, but should there also be shims to adjust the tub alignment on the chassis?

The rear tub for my 1993 200tdi 90 is at the coachworks ready to get painted. The spray painter has asked me to confirm the paint colour. There are no paint markings on the vin plate. I know it is Coniston Green but searching all the resources I can find throws up 2 paint codes - LRC570 & LRC.570(b) - but I cannot find any information to confirm the difference. Can anyone help? I know there is another Coniston Green code LRC637 - but that is for later 1998+ models, so I am sure it is 570. But what is the difference?

James that would be great if you could do a side by side comparison?

Ahh... that might be the case ... i forgot about the pre tdi 2 piece door cards. I just keep reading that to replace ealier doors with td5/puma version you need new door cards. maybe they mean lift handle door cards wont fit. So maybe my question should be - are tdi and td5/puma door cards the same??

My 90 rebuild is going well and I have now decided to go the whole hog and replace my doors as the respray cost to include the doors in addition to the tub is not too bad. I have been looking at the options and like the idea of the TD5 onwards one piece steel doors - but I read that the older door cards do not fit. Can anyone confirm if they have successfully fitted old style door card to the new style door? The other option is the SP fully galv'd ones - but I am hearing that SP quality is hit or miss and customer service is close to nil - any comments??

Snagger - exactly what I did too. Makes a huge difference and once soundproofed and carpetted will be great. I was luck that I had the side skins off so I could easily get in with a grinder. Trying to cut them out with sides in place could be a pain.

Thanksfor all the comments.. bulkhead has gone. After watching a few YouTube videos and posts on other forums I decided I like the 'clean' look of a full removal, so i got the deletion bar from Rimmer. I also cut away the flanges that are left on the seat boxes to give a finished look. It is part of a full tub refurb which includes new skins and panels all round. Pretty happy with it so far - just need to find someone who doesnt want the earth to spray paint it for me. I should be taking more pics of the rebuild- but I keep forgetting!🙄