vougese39

the problem is there are no good running s/h units out there if you want to fit a older engine you will need to fit the front cover another cam and crank sensor to and its a lot of work just for a temp job

i am running a d2 with 300+ bhp on the standard ecu with no major issues and achiving 25+mpg if it is a uk car you cannot remove the cats as you will need them for the mot.

is it the flasher or a actual display fett? as for the oil 20/50 i have found to be slightly too thick i use a **** oil 15/40 mineral as it is not so thick and can effect the mpg slightly too

i have used a guy in newark very good take the whole motor to him and he does the lot

did you split the engine from the auto box? if you did did you ensure the torque convertor was pushed back? if no is applicable to the above then oil level is one start the car when cold move though the gears then pull dip stick out and check level top up with dextron 2 atf will be fine. you may need to reset the base idle which is causing the idle fault

the base idle should be 520+/- 20 rpm with a hot engine and no load on it! still think it is the basics that are way out if you want me to come and have a fiddle contact me cheers stuart

i had a set of ebc green stuf pads with tarox 40 groove discs the pads lasted 9,000 miles but as they wore they became a harder and caused sqealing and mild judder replaced the pads and al is fine

or the other option is take a d2 strip it down and fit the range rover pannels to it and have a td5/v8 d2range rover?

base idle, air leak faulty, afm

as for the problem you have it sounds like the basics have been unset so start with checking the timing and once running reset the base idle even a under tunned poorly set ecu should be able to be started then tunned to run. major concern here is the extreme tuning to the 3.5 all the work done to the heads and it still has a major bore shrouding problem so a lot of your money has been for nought! running a 3.5 with a 3.9 ecu will not cause any major problems as the hotwire will adpt to the less air entering the engine and fuel accordingly. did you have a road speed transducer fitted when you fitted the hotire injection system? have you a manual resister in the loom so the ecu knows it is a manual? what faults have you got in the injection ecu?

yes they do as they are made by omitec who make the testbook for land rover it is a very good tool does have some limitations

the other reason for this fault is due to the failure of the pump it has sent swarf down the fuel lines and contaminated the fuel system when you replace the sensor check the rail for small shiny pices of metal if you have these then it will need a fuel system replaing and also the injector too

if you are looking at getting a diagnostic tool apart from testbook £7K which is what i have the for the home mechanic i would get the hawk eye as it is made by omitec who made testbook for land rover it does not have all the functuality that testbook has but work well. i did offer diag training last year and did two courses to help teach people to use thir kit and understand faults and sensor outputs

at a guess low fuel pressure, or the amp on the dissy or worn out cap leads and rotor arm

if the lambda sensors are faulty then it will cause failure of the catalytic convertors then it is very expensive. also it could bore wash the engine and require a rebuild

have you had the ecu tested it will show in the sensors if the turbo is boosting also if the maf is working and the boost sensor too

the gas should be teed into one of the lambda sensor if you have kept the lambdas then you will not need to swap the tune resister. if it is backfiring on gas then it is overfuel get the emissions reset

could be a exhaust leak, sticking egr valve, leaking turbo hose, or blocked engine breather valve too

was a priv sale

found them from a guy in derby they are compomotive alloys

the most coman problem is the loom rubs and chafes in the bumper skin remove the bumper and repair the loom i usualy tape the loom to the bumper skin with gaffer tape

i fitted the hub adptors and 18 inch p38a rims to my classic about 4 years ago again the problem with the eas is if it fails bye bye archs! also it had a stupid wide track and tramlined in truck lanes not nice at speed i fitted 18" rims with original stud patterns much better i know run 255/55R18 tyres and it handels like a go kart with all the other suspension mods i have done picture on my web site

you need the centre silencer more than the rear for back pressure to help the engine run right removing will give the placebo effect that it is faster but will only be noise not worth the hassel drop the tail box for the most improvement in power over stock. cheap upgrade is to fit a diesel system as it has no baffels

all the engines i have done have been cat/lambda set up engines even more so with the p38a engine which has a set parmeter of achiving 14-1 ratio when cruising. non cat engines are more reliable than a lambda spec engine every time. it was the 4.2 that started the porus issue not slipped liner's, slipped liners are because the block has cracked and allowed the block to expand causing the linner to shift thus chomping its way though the head gasket.

ok proper anorak time for you guys here a few answers to help 3.5 bullet proof 3.9 pre cat bullet proof 3.9 / 4.2 with cats have porus blocks. 4.2 started it all off and was the first with cat and lambda sensor spec car that land rover offered in the uk 3.9/ 4.0 / 4.6 1995 onwards denoted as suffix b engine ten bolt heads comp gaskets and the serpentine drive belt system all with cats and lambdas it is because of the lambdas that the engine's have problems they run lean at crusing speed to get a beter mpgs and ths causes high combustion temps which cause the block to crack and the linner to slip, as poor quality control of the casting process with very old and worn out casting machines too does not help! people wanted better mpg but the ecu programers got it at a cost your engine another theory to add which has also been spoke about is the porus issue due to electrical arking through the linner to the pistons could be due to poor engine earthing and weak anti freeze. me personaly have a 4.6 best engine land rover ever made standard in a 90 it is a hoot in a classic or d2 it can be a monster! i'm building a 5.2 for my classic so will be intresting as iam going for a thicker linner set up