tommobot

I've slightly considered building an enclosure next to the fuel filler neck, to house a heater in... The problelm (apart from proximety to petrol) is providing a decent door / access hatch. On the passenger side of the 110 I've built a small cubby store behind the rear wheel which is perfect for tool storage. In all fairness, if I could make or sort a decent door / access hatch adjacent to the petrol neck then housing a diesel heater behind the rear wheel may be a good solution

More stupid questions... I recently noticed, and felt a bit of play in the steering, which appeared to be the bottom UJ. New UJ ordered, and wheel wobble seemsed to reduce slightly perhaps.. maybe. Anyway, I did about 200miles with the new UJ, and some mild off roading aswell, looked at joint again and there seems to be minor play in the splines and the UJ itself. If I do the bolts up guarantunly tight it disappears, are the splines on the central shaft known for wearing down? PS. Photo not of my shaft' 😆

I've got a bit of a 58mph wobble, not tooooo bad but needs sorting. I'll get underneath and have a look, however the radius arm bushes... surely I'm not going to sense any movement on those by just getting someone to giviethe wheel a bit of a move. I guess a big crow bar and lever against chassis to look for any movement is my best bet? - Checking bushes for wear is one of my weaknesses to be honest🤔

I presume i'm looking for this part then: https://yrmit.co.uk/product/underfloor-support-hot-dipped-galvanised-land-rover-defender-110-station-wagon-series-lwb/ EDIT: Just spoke to YRM, they suggested that a 3 piece item isn't avaialable and I'd be best to follow the guideance shown below: Which looks like a load of faff for sure, but not fundementally impossible! https://yrmit.co.uk/workshops/land-rover-defender-110-series-lwb-station-wagon-2nd-row-upstand-and-floor/

My front most rear tub support on my 110CSW has reached the end of its life, and will need replacing. I cant seem to find too much online about replacing this, and given its location and proximety to road salt would think it would be fairly common failure? Anyway, i'm thinking triangular sides off beneath rear doors, drill out rivets and slide out with a bit of luck? or is it going to be a much bigger ballache - Any advice much appreciated!

I've a M52 mated to a V8 flavour R380, though it can be done a P38 bell housing and adpater plate behind the bell housing from memory and a pull clutch arrangement with again an R380. I used the V8 bellhousing and box as I aready had one, and was assured it was a working combo, though in hindsight it appears the input shaft of the R380 wasn't quite long enough and needed extended which was an expensive headache! The ashcroft V8 autobox to M57 adapter is what I've used to mate it all together. A ballache for sure, but at the end its a lovely drive with the M52, sounds sweet and goes properly when wound up!

I'm in need of a bit of help, I've an early oneten that didn't come with any of the door opening triggers, and has a 3 position switch that activates the rooflight and doesn't appear to light the dash. I would believe that the 3rd position would allow the light to be controlled by the trigger Today ive fitted the triggers and some wires, I understand the triggers need to be wired in parallel. Took the switch out and had a look at the rear, was a bit lost. Any help would be very appreciated. FYi,I'm totally useless with diagrams😟 Initially I was thinking to make a complete circuit with the triggers and hopefully activate the lights via relay, but I've now read that the screw on the trigger earths it, with much faff I've managed to put a cable / terminal to the back of the trigger to make a full circuit etc..

That genuinley looks mega! Could easily see those photos on a website with a £150 price tag! Would you consider making a couple of them for inpromtu retail, as I think you may have a few takers!

What size / how expensive is a reasonable printer to be actually useful for printing the sort of bits you are thinking? Material wise what sort of cost are you looking at per print for instance? - Say something like some sort of ashtray insert..

I think the Donaldson filter is basically the same as the 200tdi filter, I've an LDV Sherpa filter on my M52 conversion which again is basically the same..

Hmmm, that sounds a bit more of a hastle than I was hoping. I was hoping for an all in one solution / less flappy solution but I guess in theory I could fit a C-tek in the battery box and put a blue connection plug externally? So by hooking up a to the electircal hook ups I'd be essentially rtrickele charging the the car whilst parked up - An onboard inverted could covert any plug issues / requirements if I've understood correctly?

Potentially a silly question, but i've never used one of the camping hook'ups in my life? - Would the electrical hookup be able to just charge the battery / keep them topped up or am I missing the point somehow?

Thanks for the assistance fellas'... Pulled out the shafts slightly and boom. Seems to fit exactly as expected which is a relief. Now have to be a bit brave and try and fit in all to the car instead 🤔

I'm cobbling together a conversion based on the diesel Jim method. I've an entire spare drum brake Sainsbury that I've been converting, to make sure it all works. It's all set up and seems to line up OK. Went to put the hub flange on and it seems far too thick. I have swapped the shafts and potentially the flanges over from spare axle, so I believe it's the same as the one on the car. Do I need longer shafts, I believe there are thinner flanges... Looks like there's about 35mm available. Any help appreciated...

Its running a BMW M52 petrol and fairly 'roady' tyres so pottering about at 30mph its near silent (for a 84' 110 😀)

Hmmmm so by the sounds of it, they are 'correct' as they are then... So to stop the rattling is there any approved method? - Could I put a small rubber sleeve over the retaining pin to try and compress the spring slightly? - They don't really seem to have any compression to them at all at the moment..

These have been rattling away for long enough, time to sort it! I think the metal retaining clips will fit - such as: https://www.gsfcarparts.com/catalog/product/view/id/175706/?auto_apply_coupon=AUT65&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqoibBhDUARIsAH2OpWhkBIHdDdpwa9fgkFM9euN9MCTj1TGjaXWrpANCOOHPL31TosRCJrsaAowCEALw_wcB Would someone just confirm this for me please..

I must admit, a brought my alpicool fridge through Amazon, supposedly next day delivery. It turned up about a week later and I kicked off at Amazon and they gave me a full refund prior to it arriving and if it arrived I could keep it as a gift... Turned up next day!

Lovely, very helpful video! - Thanks for the link!👍

So the disks are consistant? its just the pad retainers that are different..? I'll have a sneaky look and see what I have on the calipers.. Edit, looks like its 2 retaining pin holes so I presume I can get anything from 86- circa whatever...

Slightly confused by this listing, as its the only one i've seen thats saying for 'one ten' upto 1986. Anyone know what the difference is, if any as at face value they look the same https://www.bearmach.com/product/brake-pad-disc-kits-brkbkbpk/geomet-front-brake-disc-pad-kit-suitable-for-defender-one-ten-vehicles-up-to-1986-bk-1000geo/BK 1000GEO?glCountry=UK&glCurrency=GBP&gclid=CjwKCAjw2rmWBhB4EiwAiJ0mtcYGdMZh1Op44w_cOexig4k85_hrebn0RAbB26B_uIYZ4TJuzewMlhoCHcYQAvD_BwE

I'm looking to order some new discs and pads for my very early 'one ten'.. Offically its a 'one ten' but at somestage in its life it was fairly modified transmittion wise to have 200tdi drivetrain. I've read that all front discs and pads are the same, but I specifically saw a listing for 'one ten' front discs which makes me think that there not. Also, I'm fairly confident that the front hub arrangment changed at somepoint in the 200tdi era...? Whats the best way to confirm either way which ones I need to order? - I guess strip down and measure?

I've manged to get hold of an Alpicool CF45 with the LG compressor, happy with it so far. Its been running 24/7 for just over a week via a 150w solar panel and a 85ah lesiure battety without issue and without starting the car at all which I was very impressed with! At the moment I'm not using the fridge, should I still be running it? - Or leaving it cranked open slightly to breath when not in use? - Thoughts please.

This may be a terrible idea, but I've currently got fairly generic wind deflectors fitted to my 110csw. The ones in the front work well, in the back, not so. I figure this is because the front ones sort of go down to waist height. I was thinking to take the rear one and rotate by 90 degrees so it's essentially on the B(?) pillar .. was thinking could get something 3d printed... Tbh, just thought I could test this with a scrap bit of aluminium bent to shape and wedged in. Anyways, thoughts please... Terrible idea or worthwhile pursuing?

Just for the future, I'm curious how you guys have wired them in? Is it a direct (fused) feed to battery or just off a cig / usb port?