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tommobot

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Everything posted by tommobot

  1. I really need to go for a passenger ride in a decent shock'd Defender... My heart is telling me to go for a nice set of Bilstein B6's but can the ride really be that much better on a car where the last thing ever considered is ride quality!!
  2. So let's say caliper brackets are £40 per side, and a s/h 200tdi front hub for maybe £25 each... I've got discs, calipers and pads... Then maybe £20 for 6mm steel and I'm there? Anything else I've overlooked
  3. Infact, I think it may have been wrong... Is it 200tdi front hubs I need.... and I keep the existing 200tdi stub shaft or have I mis-understood?
  4. Looking to start this myself. I know it's been covered plenty, but currently all I have is a 200tdi 110 rear axle, and a set set of discs and calipers. I believe, I'd need to purchase 300tdi hubs, caliper brackets, and a 6mm thick spacer for the caliper bracket. Everything else I should be able to cobble together from what I have? Does this sound about right?
  5. Where are the koni's available from... A quick Google I could only find heavy duty ones, that were only suitable for a circa 40mm lift
  6. What's the general consensus on the bilstein b6 and standard springs for a defender 110, mainly road use. Looks like I can get the lot for circa £350 which seems good value for a decent brand!
  7. For completion, I've had a look at the handbrake. Its one of the early rod link type ones, and seems a bit of a pain to adjust neatly. Anyways, I've wound it right back off entirely, so that there is no resistance at all... Done a few miles in it and no hint of the clunking etc that was occuring before so hopefully combined with the new TF box, and slacker handbrake I'm sorted for a bit! Thanks for the help as ever guys!
  8. That's pretty good advice thanks! The Ujs were replaced last year I think, when I took them off they didn't seem to bad at all. Ill have a look throughout, when I took the handbrake drum off, it was free, but not freespinning... Which in hindsight it looks like it needs to be!!?
  9. So replacement 1.6 box on... Did first few miles ok , now doing exactly the same as the old one. Can't believe that this is marketed in the same way, so where else can I look..? Could it be the handbrake? Edit... Rewatching videos regarding the handbrake it could be a touch tight maybe? When coasting to a stop in neutral a tiny tiny bit of the same but nowhere near the same. Seems to happen when slowing in 1,2 or 3 and gets progressively worse with more use..
  10. Following on this topic, I have one of the X eng fans, and a old peugot twin fan arrangement that appears to shift a decent bit of air! With the twin fan, when the hi temp is activated on the x-eng sensor will both fans come on(1 linked to ultra hot and 1 to hot) I.e, lower temp setting 1 fan... higher temp both fans?
  11. The way it was clattering through the gearbox, and whole car I'd be pretty damn confident it wasn't a UJ. I'd took rear prop off, and noise was still present. Also, the noise / knocking only started after putting diff lock on, it had been fine up until that point..
  12. https://photos.app.goo.gl/HsFnbaQPWWdZGr4K9 Thoughts please... All seems a bit 'loose'..
  13. Front and rear prop off, lt230 in drive and no clunks when coming off power or on power, clutch in etc. . I would assume it doesnt have the effect of taking up slack from the props having their effect..
  14. Just tried driving on the drive, driving with the lt230 in neutral... No clunks from driveline... Which again would further suggest transfer box..
  15. So took it for a spin with diff lock on, handbrake drum removed and rear prop off. Noise / clunking still as bad as ever, perhaps now even whining. My intuition suggests transfer box seeing as it's been working perfectly until touched diff lock ..
  16. Prepare for a terrible video... https://photos.app.goo.gl/SyeRPsRxo15uocjX8 It doesn't really show it on the video, but its more 'notchy' for the first few mm of counter rotation, which in hindsight doens't actually seem so bad... Thoughts please...
  17. I'll try and get a video of it later, but from reading last night I'm starting to fear it could be terminal for the LT230. I was contemplating looking for a 1.6 box, this may push forth this search ☹️ By the time I've rebuilt / repaired an existing box, and purchased a 1.6 final ratio I may aswell get a new box. Anyway, I'll try and get a video today to make sure i'm not getting too far ahead of myself..
  18. So done a bit of digging. Diff lock light and wiring actually works!!! But wasn't connected, and switch was dead anyway. Easy fix. Took rear prop and handbrake drum off. Seemed very tight and restrictive, but not at all too bad inside. Perhaps could be wound back a bit .. Regarding the lt230, diff lock engages, restricts rotation as expected. Diff lock off ... Spins freely. However. When counter rotate there is a unpleasant, interlocking sound from within which doesn't sound clever at all!... Should I be hearing any sort of noise from within when turning clockwise and switching to anti clockwise etc..?
  19. This is my third defender, never had one where the diff lock light works... 🙄
  20. To be fair, when I was looking underneath the car at the weekend, there seemed to be little to no play whatsoever in the rear prop with the car in neutral (hb off) which I thought was a bit odd, but thought nothing off it...
  21. Drove to billing at the weekend, all fine - not a problem. Did their off road track and for the first time engaged diff lock in this defender. Made quite a big difference and actually seemed to be working. Drive home, disengage, I know the levers are a bit flakey but it seemed to be out of diff lock. Drove like it was. Every now and then it had clucking from drivetrain but thought nothing off it. Nearly home and sharp right and sharp left turn, diff wound up and basically stopped the car. Reveresed. Got underneath, manualy clicked it, thought I think it was out anyway, but perhaps it was not quite? Drove fine again, jacked up wheels at weekend, no diff lock effects etc.. Drove today, and when coming to a stop when putting cluctch in, hell of a lot of clunking / jerking from gearbox / T box. May take off lever mech, and push the locking mechanism firmly over as it still maybe in diff lock slightly? I've done a couple of hundred miles and been bang on the money, first time touch diff lock goes a bit flakey, so I'm thinking it certainally could be to do with this. For absolute clarity, if I jack up 1 side of the car, spin both front and back wheels freely and can be ensured that diff lock is not engaged - Is this correct?
  22. Thanks for the video Simon, I posted the query on a few FB groups and mostly got the response of 90% its how it should be.... with the 10% saying it will blow up etc.. Not sure what to think, but Shabs from Syncro Gearboxes commented that it would normal / fine so i'd hopefully trust his opinion..
  23. How much play should I be expecting on a R380 release bearing and bearing guide shaft? I've got a V8 box that was a bit noisy, and I thought it was the bearing being a bit loose / sloppy on the shaft. Brought a replecement guide and bearing and seems to be pretty much the same. Is this correct... See video below: https://photos.app.goo.gl/hZTd7WHgZhNosWUJA
  24. Alternatively, I could get NTC9055 which appears to be a Flexi hose with unf at one end and m12 at the other.. Not sure if I could screw the Flexi straight into the slave.. it wouldn't have the flared end, but does it need it?
  25. A bit more info, I have FTC5202. Which as above doesn't fit in with the existing threads/ system. A bit of reading suggests I may need FTC5072(for disco and 300tdi).. or FTC5071 (for series 3/3.5 V8 defender).. I'm running a V8 R380, and the era would suggest it would be a UNF? thread, although I don't think they had r380's so not sure if the throw of the piston would suit..
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