Hulliemam

Thanks for the replys! No, I did not. The picture is off a second hand parts website for breakers in the Netherlands. This one being the only one with two fans and a picture so I know what I'm looking for. At 45 euros with shipping it not that expensive, only I would have liked the original watertight connectors with it. After being stuck in a forest with a friend’s RRC I want the electric cooling system to be completely watertight. His hillbilly thermoswitch got mud inside, shorted and his unfused power wire melted everything… I had to redo his fan wiring on his car and did it properly that time. So I want my own car to be bulletproof, watertight everything and properly fused. I dont know, fabricating some metal supports and bolt them to the plastic can’t be that difficult

I am looking at using a Mondeo fan too, only can’t figure out which one to use. there seems quite a lot of difference. Is this the correct one? Its off a 2005 Mondeo 2.0 diesel with aircon. Only I have to find one with the electrical connectors still on it. Its going on a 1983 RRC V8

Cynic-al, can you post some more photos of the back of your car? I am looking for a design on a home made HD rear bumper and I think yours looks really nice! It would be amazing if you also have the measurements of the box section that you used.

I have solved this problem a couple of months ago. So, for future reference: I removed the propshaft and because it dint had the original dust cap on the sliding part, I could not measure the maximum length. It just slides right out. Also the splines were pretty badly worn. After removing the shaft I found out that the lower UJ was frozen for 80% so needs replacing anyway. I went to my local guy and got a standard (hollow) type disco 1 driveshaft, all greased up already. Checked the length and it still got room to slide out from driving height, and plenty of room at the cross member. Fixed

I have seen a 1993/1994 front axle off a RRC LSE with abs, that had the railco bush in the top and a tapered bearing. In the bottom. in the middle off the railco was the ABS sensor. I am glad you found the correct part!

I did some research on the Thor manifold/management a while ago. Maby this helps you out a bit. If you want to run the Thor system in a donor car, you have the issue of the immobiliser, and key with transponder/receiver. It has been done before, only its not easy. Some Thor vs gems facts: Fuel pressure on Thor is 3.5 bar, gems 2.5 bar. Thor does not have a return, and the pressure is regulated at the fuel pump in the tank. Gems does have a return so its easier wen running MS. The Thor cooling connections are a bit different to older style inlet manifolds (nige can sort that out, he has the conversion bits ready for sale) And if you pick a 4.6, the exhaust manifolds does not like water and are known for cracking. I am sure I forget something but this is what I red online

I searched and the partnr for the discovery would be FRC8641 and these are a lot cheaper on eBay(still expensive, at €100 used). I know a local guy that has a lot of disco parts so maybe he could hook me up with one of these. I start with remove it and measure it. I will post results because when I searched I couldn’t find any info so I hope it is useful to someone else too! Thanks for the help bowie

I have the old LT95 4speed... it shifts good, only it does make a lot of noise in 3th and 4th gear. so I am going to change the oil and stretch its life until i can afford a 5speed swap:D the photo's: should this be enough room for a standard prop shaft? cleaning is still on my to-do list I have thought about lowering it, only it has a good set of Monroe offroad 4x4 shocks. And I like it this high, only it doesn’t have camber adjusted so it steers a bit weird and nervous. I am a student so everything is on a very tight budget Are there any other cheap options? idea! should a std prop shaft fit? Length wise? I can hack a bit out of that crossmember to make room for the bigger prop and weld in some plates

So I am rescuing a 84” Range Rover Classic. Bought it for parts, then decided that it was within my power and budged to save it. I thought it was 2”lifted, but turns out it is 4” lifted… so I think the original driveshaft was: Or to short? Or it hits the cross member? The previous owner changed it to part FRC9542 and this is a solid axle, very nice and small. Only its rare and the price second hand is its weight in gold.. The UJ’s seems in fairly good conditions and are affordable new and in stock at paddocks, so not a problem. Only it seems that the sliding shaft is worn. it has a lot of play in it, I can move it around quite a lot. On the 2 picture’s I could find online the sliding piece has a metal cap screwed on, mine seems plastic. Is this fixable? Are there new sliding couplings available? The picture from eBay: (I take a picture tomorrow)

Love the build, and I really like how it turned out! Must drive like a rocket ship isn’t it? Strangely enough I also like the matt-black. Most of the time I don’t like matt paint on cars but your landy suits it well. But please ditch those 3 spoke RRC rims, that rim is the most ugly thing Land Rover has ever come up with! I personally prefer the steel 8 spokes, or the wolf type? (with the round holes) But that’s my opinion For ultimate looks, (and performance) some fender flares and indeed bigger (and wider) tires. That would give it a more aggressive look, I think that’s all it needs to be the ultimate series!

I guess it is around 1985, I got a 84' range and it has still the "old" type one forward one backwards. I don’t know the reason ether...

if you move the seatbelt then you have a lot of options. I happen to have a friend who has 2 Suzuki Swift GLS seats laying around! picked them up for 25 euros! they are realy nice and the grey matches the gray at the back seat! also more suporting wen offroading becouse of the sidewalls. there are a lot of Swift GLS's out there so finding a cheap pare of seats seems possible to me.