stephencdavies

Settled In
  • Content count

    207
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

stephencdavies last won the day on July 28 2016

stephencdavies had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

21 Excellent

About stephencdavies

  • Rank
    Old Hand

Profile Information

  • Location
    Exeter. Devon.

Recent Profile Visitors

534 profile views
  1. antifreeze/summer coolant .stops the engine freezing in the winter and stops it overheating in the summer. so if youre still running tap water. i'd refill the system with the correct mixture and do the checks again. waters boiling point is different under pressure. as we all know boiling point at atmosphere is 100'c but different at different pressures.
  2. i have the cobra immobiliser on my truck. a few weeks ago i had a similar issue. in the end i used a spare fob , which worked. i took the failed fob apart and to see whats inside. to be honest there want much to see. i had a fiddle with the switch end and internal spring and it started to work again. i ended up using the previously failed one and took the spare with me , just in case. so far so good. to this end i thought i might investigate how it was fitted. its pretty hard to trace the system but what i did find was only the ignition to the starter motor had been cut in to and the fuel stop solenoid. as its a very basic motor i can imaging theres not much else to cut off. you could find the black control box ( mine was hidden behind the clocks ) and pull it out. you can trace the momentary ignition feed on the back of the barrel and send a new wire to the starter solenoid. also send a live feed to the fuel stop solenoid via the ignition on, barrel. i may trace the wires 1st and bypass. then once sure the truck runs without using the immobiliser fob. cut the cobra wires. i might be lucky...................
  3. actually fibreglass would be better. i just happened to have some thin ply that did the job. fibreglass would be much lighter.
  4. you can stiffen it up by gluing a thin layer of plywood. might be a little more effort but will worth it.
  5. Very easy to do yourself. i had the added advantage of having the roof off too. my missus and son done the lining while i did the roof. i used some sound proof lining , thick grade and HIGH temp spray glue. You must use high temp as the standard stuff will melt on a summers day and fall off. ( my neighbours did )
  6. i have given it a good run now, if you can call 20 miles a good run. i refitted the slick shift because i knew it would be the better option. yes i prefer it.
  7. So. To put closure on this topic. After mulling over what's been said, advise given, experiences aired. pushing my finger into my chest etc. I took the rubber cover off and set the bias spring. The spring wasnt out much at all really. more luck than anything else. anyway went by the book. gave it a wiggle, still felt the same so off for a trip around the block. still the same. i then stripped the turret top off to inspect the inners. the plastic bush was broken, only about a quarter was crumbled away, but maybe enough. so i struggled with the damn grub screw and finally managed to shift it with a torq bit. new bush fitted. ( i had one that came with the slick shift, didnt fit it because the one in place had no wear.) new grub screw, new turret, swapped bit over from one turret to the other etc. put the lot back together. set the bias spring, changed the oil and then off for trip around the block. lovely. no more notchy feeling going through the gears. i will of course take on the advice about smoother gear changes, pauses when going from one gear to another. thanks to everyone for their advice.
  8. Yep, taken as intended. in fact i totally agree. i rushed a few things on my truck and have had to learn the lessons and take the medicine. no doubt there'll be something else i've done wrong, no doubt someone on the forum will put me in the right direction again. thats what the forums for. no offence taken. i dont recall saying it was **** . i was just asking if it may have caused any issues and what would the forum do. the mod was good until recently and something changed. Have a nice day Mo. steve.
  9. 200 Tdi's are strong. i would check the oil level and see how much has gone at the turbo. it might just be the turbo seals gone. if the oil pump is working fine you can assume the engine is being lubricated.if theres still enough oil left in the sump, hopefully no real damage would have occurred. it may have just been running like an NA. if you have a compression tester, i'd check the cylinders just as a matter of course. 2nd hand turbo's are available on a well know auction site
  10. the picture i posted was pre brake overhaul. they didnt rattle before or after. i dont have the coil spring. maybe the rattling is to do with the type of spring. i'd ditch the coiled spring and fit the other springs on the inside.
  11. Great response. i was thinking on the turret. if i cast my mind back, i didnt actual set up the balance. in all honesty it was one of those , do it later things that i didnt actually do. as afr as i can judge. the gearbox is in good condition. its a H designation so should be a Lt77s, so the syncro should be better. no metal on the magnet at the last oil change. no noises going into gear or while in gear. as i said before. i'll stop driving it like a car and give it some TLC I'm going to order a turret as its the original 25yr old one. as i'm now going to strip the top off . i might as well put a new one on.
  12. Strangely i agree with everyone. yep, its no track car. the only reason i fitted it was because, well not sure now. probably saw it somewhere and while the box was out. decided to fit one. As the truck was modified when i bought it, then i put it back to spec. I may just do away with it. i'll see what happens when i check the nylon bush at the oil service. i'll still get a few £ for on ebay. My only concern at the moment is the clunky shifting that's appeared over the last week. the gears dont grind at all, just having to use more effort to shift into gears. it might just be an adjustment required on the turret.
  13. I think your'e right. i do tend to drive it like a car sometimes. i'll be doing an oil service soon on the box. i might take the turret off and check the nylon bush etc. i've always had to yank the stick from 5th to 4th but have now been getting the same thing with most gears. i have a spare bush so i might fit it and even consider removing the slick shift. the gears apart from 4th have been fine for months but have now started to be a bit tight. theres no noises or leaks so hopefully its just an oil change and TLC. i will pause across the gear change as you suggest.