Kitform

I used to get a wobble at 55mph, had to be very careful of 'ruts' in the road made by wagons as this would set it off. I changed rear bushes, convinced it was rear wheel steer. I changed front bushes and repaired a slightly elongated hole in the panhard rod bracket on the axle end. New steering damper. All the above helped but didn't cure it, the thing that did stop the wobble completely was resetting the preload on the front hubs, I had practically none. I can now reach 70-80mph in full confidence...But still drive about at 55-60mph.

Also check the breather on the fuel tank, if it's partly blocked you could develop a partial vacuum in the tank making it hard to pull the fuel through.

At £270 odd quid, I'd be making my own loom up. I completely rewired my 2a when I rebuilt it, stripped the original loom, went to the scrappy and got a couple of car looms. Second hand cable is OK provided the insulation is in good condition, yep it can be a bit gooey but a lot cheaper. Get some proper wiring harness tape to bind your new harness up to make a tidy job of it. The important part is make your own wiring diagram as you make the loom.

This is one I built for my 90 hardtop.

It's a little utility that starts Microcat, it sets the date, starts the software and then puts your date back correctly. Saves altering the date manually each time.

Quite correct, so the chances of a radiator blockage is small. Probably your thermostat, when you tested it in boiling water, was the water boiling? All that proves is that the thermostat operates. The important point is what temperature it operates at ! you need a thermometer to check the temp of the water as well. A standard thermostat is 88 degrees I think.

Also don't forget microlaunch utility to save altering the date each time you want to run microdat. I know Steve A was having a spot of bother hosting the file at one time. I have it on my server if you need an alternate link to it.

Look at the valve, if you can see the hole in the rim where the valve sticks out of, then it's fitted with a tube, if you can't see the hole because of the rubber at the base of the valve then it's tubeless.

LOL, a Hiclone under a different name.

Got mine in the head lining just above the seat belts, sounds OK to me, but I'm a bit deaf in my right ear anyway.

Set up a new connection between both computers using the advanced connection option. You should be able to connect via cable or wireless. Set one computer up as host and the other as client.

When you say rear hub is wet, you mean the outside of the hub or the back plate? Also check your axle breather isn't blocked, pressure can cause oil leaks.

The hazard switch also controls the indicators, if your hazard switch doesn't switch properly then it will effect the indicators. I would prove the hazard switch by substitution first. HTH *edit* Having just re-read your post, you've actually answered your own question, your hazards should work 5 out of 5 times when you switch them on, your hazard switch looks faulty.

Tut, tut. Not really a statement for an open forum.

The clips I picked up at work, they were surplus to requirements. I tend to collect nuts/bolts/washers ect.

Strangely enough, mine is sagging also. It's been on my to-do list for ages. Today I fixed it. Mines a '93 defender, it has the roof ribs internal, not on the outside like the series. I took out the stupid plastic plugs (don't know of they were original), at the rear of the headlining, marked the position of the three ribs and then put the rear plastic plugs back in to secure the lining, I then drilled 3 holes across the front (ish) of the lining, (just inside the 'sunroof' indentation) and then drilled another three further back and used the expanding type plastic plugs (the ones where you push the plug in and then push the little centre plastic bit to expand them),to pull the headlining back up to the roof again. Just remember to make sure you hit the internal ribs and not drill a hole staright through the roof.

Don't forget the fan has a left handed thread.

The position of the front axle in relation to the chassis is determined by the panhard rod. The position of the body with respect to the chassis is determined by the bulkhead. I've just nipped outside to have a look at mine ('93 Defender SWB). My rear axle is biased to the passenger side as it sits according to eyebrow/tyre alignment. My front axle looks central. As to the anti roll bar, I don't have one, never had, not got the fittings to fit one.

Presuming you haven't been adjusting the pump it's probably a faulty injector.

Not short changed, the part has to be ordered as a separate item. Railko bush thrust washer - front axle to KA930455 - DEFENDER FRC2906 After KA930455 they have bearings in the top pin I believe. HTH