garymorris

If you have a look at YRM, they sell the brackets to convert and show you how to set the axles

Nice one, thank you Ralph 👍

Afternoon Folks, just wondering if anybody would have a part no for the bell housing to gearbox studs on a 200tdi, I appear to either lost mine or there weren’t many in to start ? admin, apologies if I’ve posted on the wrong forum/part cheers

I’ve got a lidl one, can’t fault it 👍

Hi Jeff, ive got the 180amp version, got it about 8 years ago, brilliant bit of kit with plenty of power. run kemppi welders in my workshop making steel framed buildings, absolutely love em

Yes that’s exactly what I was thinking 😳 Having tried the different drive member and then looking at the spline lengths of the different cv’s/halfshafts, have got it sussed now 😃

Thank you, I guess somebody has bolted on a swivel etc from a newer axle. i’ve got my head around it all now, thank goodness. im going to order a new drive shaft, hub and stub axle. I’m like you prefer the older style as the wheel bearings are a bit further apart so hopefully a bit stronger.

So I’ve got the drive member and hubs the right way round then James ? i did try the thicker drive member on the shorter hub but it was loose and the thinner drive member wouldn’t fit inside the taller hub. If so it’s obviously the longer stub axles ? Cheers Gary

Afternoon Lockdown Land Rover Buffs, i‘m rebuilding a front axle (I think the axle was off a 200 tdi 90) and I’ve discovered I have a different type stub axle and hub on one side compared to the other. I’m guessing one is an early and one is late, the strange thing is that I’d imagine that the thicker driving member would fit the shorter hub ? But it won’t can anybody help and explain the difference in hubs ? many thanks Gary

I’m going to change the engine in my 52 plate disco, my question is do I need to get another engine which is the same P (ie 10P ,15P) or does it not matter and I can code the injectors using Hawkeye thanks in advance Gary

@Tanuki, I wouldn’t say the fuel pump was excessively noisy, I couldn’t hear it from the drivers seat (I went to the back when it was purging and could hear It ) i’ll change the fuel filter and see if that helps thanks Gary

Have just been out and tried that Tanuki and alas it won’t start, but I can hear the pump running. i was thing of putting a pressure tester in the fuel regulator to see if I’ve got the right pressure ??? cheers Gary

Have joined the D2 boys forum this afternoon and getting some help which is good , no the injector loom connected up fine and did run although with misfire until it stopped yesterday afternoon. will have a look for the emergency cut off switch. just noticed you’re from Shropshire as well , what part of the county are you in ? cheers Gary

Hi Griff, thank you that, will download rave and have a look at that. im guessing if nanocom is showing the rpm when turning engine over then the crank position sensor is working ? thanks Gary

Hello, started my td5 the other day and it had got a misfire, so had a look at the red plug and there was a little bit of oil, so I changed the injector loom and cleaned the red plug out with contact cleaner. had the top of the emu and it all appeared dry and oil free, put it all back together and misfire still present 😰😰😰 so have bought a Hawkeye (off a friend who has sold his td5) and plugged in, whilst looking at the live data and looking at the rpm I decided to give a few revs on the third rev it emitted a large puff of smoke (engine not Hawkeye) and now will turnover but won’t start 😫😫😩. so the question is where to start and has anybody got a link to the numbers or parameters I should be seeing with the Hawkeye ? Thank you & apologies for the question but this is my first foray in to electrical type engines