garymorris
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Posts posted by garymorris
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Only problem is that ebay rope is too long for legal use on the public highway as it exceeds 4.5m! Double it up and at 2.5m it will be a bit close.
Brendan
Well if your local plod pulls you up for having a tow rope that's 500mm to long I think I would be saying "you should be out catching proper criminals officer !"
Gary
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Hi
I bought one off these 5 mtr tow rope off Ebay , I've used it a couple of times , off road and on and have been pleased with it
Gary
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Hi
they are compomotive dwf alloys and gwyn told me to get them off west coast 4x4who are in southport
HTH
Gary
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Hi Roland , a picture speaks a thousand words
Cheers
Gary
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simply - Speedglass 9002 is the best I've ever used...
Everything else is...erm
'not a Speedglass'Nige
Exactly what Nige says , speedglas everytime ,I use one every day and they are worth the money , alternatively miller are very good
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Nige
I have a diff protector off Gwyn Lewis it's about 5mm thick and folded ,just hold in place tack and weld
I got mine when I picked up my suspension and other stuff I had off him although I haven't seen Gwyn advertise them but I'm sure if you give him a ring he will be his usual helpful self.
will try and get a photo of it for you in a mo so you can see if it's suitable for you
Gary
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yes Ez Bleed , best £15 you'll spend quick and easy !
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Well stripped the winch down and everything looks fine. No water or dirt inside it. Life in the brake and grease in the gear box. All contacts are fine. Motor is still like new.
So time to refit and try it again. Will try it with jump leads to the 3rd battery. To see if it is any better, if it is then I will invest in a new battery. If not then it is a new winch!!
Paul
Well if you decide to sell your winch why not give somebody that's local a chance to buy it
Gary
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Hi
there is a company called the "transit breakers" in Dudley , used them a few years ago and they were good to deal with
I won't say they deliver after you're aluminium topic
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Have spoken to NOR and it is possible to have rear winch and rear tank , sounds like it will stick out a bit
,chap at NOR is going to put a piccy on his website
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NOR do a rear winch crossmember/mount that fits with the TD5/110 tank
Splendid , I dare say it must stick out a little
I'll have to give nor and richards a ring to see what the craic is
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Don't forget to get the rear winch crossmember too.
Funny you should say that because that was going to be my next question about rear winch mounting on a 110 station wageon /double cab
As far as I can see I have a couple of options
1:- have rear winch crossmember and smaller diesel tank in original place or maybe tank made to fit under rear seats
2:-leave diesel tank alone and fit rear winch under rear seats(obviously in strong steel box in case of disaster) then exit through rear bulkhead via some sort of cat flap and then rear fairlead mounted on rear crossmember with notch/letterbox out of side hinging tailgate
I definately don't want an outboard winch and don't really want the winch in the load bay(but would if it was the only option left)
Has anybody on here got a rear winch on a 110 ? if so what did you do ? and have you got any piccies ?
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sean ,gruntus thanks for the replies , I'll have to give richards chassis a ring to discuss things and see what the best option is
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Hi Simon,
when I was building my 110 double cab I got very disheartened ,like Will says making lists and then ticking things off makes you feel that you're getting somewhere
I also found focusing on what the finished vehicle would be like(I started with a nail and thought it would never be tidy) and not the stage you're at helps.
Most people lose there way/feel like they are getting nowhere but if stay positive you will achieve what you want to in the end.
And the good thing is the're are plenty of knowledgeable people on here(my self not included) to help you solve problems !
Good Luck
Gary
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Hello folks ,
I will be buying a 110 galv chassis next year and want to fit a roll cage ,
The chassis will come off richards but I'm not sure about the cage , has anybody got any experience of having cage mounts fitted at Richards ?(I've been reading Highland rovers thread but did'nt want to high jack it
)Can anybody recommend a cage supplier ? I suppose the usual suspects would be n.o.r , p&p and whitbread .
I am probably leaning towards whitbread as I could pop down to them to collect
I'm a steel fabricator so am well aware of the c.d.s and blue band issue.
Cheers
Gary
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hi
I have also got a galvanised chassis for my 90, and like the op im looking for ways to increase its life span.
I have been told that paint doesn't like sticking to newly galvanised metal so in my research i cam across a product called T Wash which is meant to prepare the surface for improved paint adhesion, has anyone heard of it or better still tried it?
many thanks
matthew
Hi
I've used T wash(it's also called mordant solution) on steel fabrications that have been galvanized then require painting ,basically you brush it on ,leave it a few minutes then wash off with water .
it will turn the galv from shiny finish to black .
As far I know it's the correct thing to use when you want to paint a galvanized product , no doubt an adult will be along in a minute to correct me !
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^ and mine , bought some sealey socket extension bars a few years ago and broke the first time I used them and was only being gentle
although I thinks there welders and toolboxs are ok -
Dont bother with a kenlowe or anything like that, 200s dont need a huge amount of cooling so if you think the one you have is pritty powerful then stick with it alternatively you could get a Mondeo one, Thats what i use on mine controlled with a X-eng fan switch like this x-fan switch
Dave.
I've done exactly the same ^^^^^^^^^ and it works a treat ,X eng switch is a really good bit of kit
Gary
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Hello ,
I use the same thing on my 110 cut off switch with a 5amp resettable fuse and it works well
Cheers
Gary
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Nick,
try Albert Jagger based in west midlands they are brilliant for handles etc and general coachbuilding stuff
Gary
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Or you could keep the ECU + electronic gubbins...You will get the benefit of an electronically controlled engine with more accurate timing etc...
James ,
I'm going to fit the engine and box in to a defender galv chassis and would like to keep it simple and tbh I'm not keen on ecu's etc .
Cheers
Gary
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Cheers Pete
,that's just the job ,I'll source the bits I need and try to sell the bits I don't
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morning , I've just had a look and injector nearest bulkhead has got wire on it
also had a look under the dash and voila a silver box in the kickpanel drivers side 
Spose I better get on the lookout for a mechanical injector pump
Does anybody know what other bits and bobs I'll need or is it just the pump ?
Cheers
Gary
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Hi
I don't really know
I suppose as long as I get a mechanical pump for the same money I don't mind , Are you in a rush for the bits ?Cheers
Gary
'not a Speedglass'
although I thinks there welders and toolboxs are ok 
V8's; Cracked Blocks
in International Forum
Posted
I'm sure ACR at Chester/Queensferry also do some sort of liner/repair for this engine
Cheers
Gary