garymorris
-
Posts
362 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by garymorris
-
-
Hi ,
Marcus Glenn or anchor supplies both sell the paint you're after , they'll probably tell you what thinners you require
Gary
-
No they don't , they charge you the outbound weight of your item , and things such as structural steelwork will pick up approx 6% during the galvanizing processThey charge per kg of zinc usually. So they weigh before and after to determine the amount of zinc used. You shouldnt have to worry about the weight of the body itself! I think...
Jad
Gary
-
Hi Toadeebee,
Thanks for that , I'll have a test of the wires and if all is well I'll have a look at the mfu .
The disco has just passed it's mot ( after a weldathon !!) so will be picking it up tomorrow to do a few little jobs and get back on the road for the start of February .
Cheers
Gary
-
Thanks for that , I was scratching my head a bit trying to work out how to check if the wire was chaffed .You should be able to test for a faulty earth by removing one of the door switches and testing for continuity between the wire and body earth.
Boydie , you have sorted your loom out ! Hopefully I just need to find a chaffed wire or the mfu
Cheers
Gary
-
Hi
Was starting to wonder if I was going to get a reply lol.
My rear wiper does sometimes not work , apart from that everything seems fine except for the interior lights .
Where is the multifunction unit located and is it a simple plug in job ?
I guess I better have a look with a test lamp and see if an earth wire is chaffed
It sounds like you had a lot wrong with yours ,glad you got it sorted and thanks for reply
Gary
-
Evening , right the patient is a 300 tdi , P reg and the problem is with the interior light set to auto , the lights won't turn off when the doors are shut , I know the it's the earth path that's switched.
So am I correct in thinking that maybe either I have a chaffed wire which is permanently earthing or the multifunction unit is playing up ?
Lights work when turned on manually and the alarm/immobiliser arms fine with 3 flashes .
Thanks
Gary
-
I found the decal just under the bonnet lip very interesting, and also remember a chat with another guy who owns an early 130(127) and the log book says 110 even tjough it was stretched.
Yes I think that's fairly common on early 130's , I've got a C reg 130 and it say's 110 on the V5
Gary
-
My bucket list , I'd like to go to
Isle of Man ( to watch TT )
Canada
Australia
New Zealand
France to see milau bridge
And finally want to drive ( with my little lad) my scammell to the great Dorset steam fair unfortunately at 30 mph
Cheers
Gary
-
Daan ,
If you want a coloured floor buy epoxy floor paint , it's quite expensive but is much better than the floor paint you get from your local DIY place.
Alternatively if you want to stop the dust and are not bothered about colour , proseal is very good and easy to apply ( just use a cheap garden sprayer and throw away when finished )
Proseal is made by sika , have used it on my new workshop floor and am really pleased with it
Hth
Gary
-
Nigel popping welding or welder between leather & apron might ease your plightBeen looking for leather apron with thigh chaps but every google search takes me to random S&M and bondage gear
Gary
-
I reckon it's a simca Marmon there like a French Unimog with a ford v8 , in all fairness it's probably tax exempt because of age and might be mot exempt cos it's on limited use maybe ??yeah, but what is it?
Gary
-
Crikey !
What about taking the engine out with gearbox still on ? Maybe you'd be able to wiggle/ jiggle it a bit better ?
Good luck !
Gary
-
If you want a pivot but haven't got access to lathes etc
They have dust seal etc and I liked the fact you weld the sleeve in and then could get the bracket powder painted or galvanised
Gary
-
Yes , t washing is no good for powder painting , usually sweep blast and then they do something called degassing which stops reaction I think. .
Any good powder painter should know what to do as powder painting over galvanised isn't unusual .
My local galvanisers has a powder painting division which I use fairly regularly .
Gary
-
I would check out parts availability if I were you , there was a ps10 in a local garage to me that failed the mot on a track rod end and the garage failed to fix it / source one , so ended up welding/ bodgIng a dIfferent track rod end on to fIx it
-
I would say that you have diesel bug , I'm in the process of sorting my scammell out at the moment as it's just had it .
You need to steam clean the diesel tank out and then leave it to dry , then spray some neat additive around inside the tank.
Clean all the fuel lines etc with brake/ clutch cleaner and obviously change any filters etc.
It also helps if you keep your diesel tank topped up , my lorry is only ever about 1/4 full which hasn't helped my plight , from what I've read and been told the more fresh air you have in your tank the more chance of getting condensation and therefore the more chance of getting diesel bug.
It doesn't help that diesel bug is quite hard to shift once you've had it , so I think putting additive in and keeping the tank topped up will help tremendously.
If you google "diesel bug" you'll find plenty to read and there's plenty of additive on eBay
Cheers
Gary
-
Definitely yes ,you're not being unreasonable , don't let him beat you !Next question, is do I carry on in the meantime?
-
To be fair , as long as you're not doing it as a business and not doing it at unreasonable hours I'm fairly certain there's not a lot the council can do .
At the end of the day doing some grinding is no worse than somebody mowing the lawn with a petrol mower or using a strimmer .
He's obviously a helmet !
Gary
-
Have a look at halfords , I've got one of they're torque wrenches and it's brilliant , I'm fairly sure their lifetime guarantee is on them as well .
I've got a teng one as well which I don't think is as good , the adjustment on the halfords one is far superior IMHO .
The halfords ones are on offer sometimes or maybe you know somebody with a trade card
Gary
-
I've been thinking about a cnc plasma table for work( I make steel framed buildings and general fabrications) and it would be handy for making bits for land rovers etc .
I reckon that it would be good to build one that took a 2.000 x 1.000 stock sheet .
I've been looking at the bull tear ones ( found them through pirate forum) , there's also http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CNC-PLASMA-CUTTER-4x4-POWERMAX-45-PLASMA-DTHC-LAST-1-LEFT-/281091976759?pt=UK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET&hash=item4172632e37 .
I'd like to build something rather than buy but I'd be fine with the fab work it's the electronical side I'd struggle with.
I use laser process at Cannock for what laser cutting I require , if you have a dxf of something you need , I'll gladly get you a price , they are fine with small quantities .
Gary
-
I've got some fitted to my axles and they're tidy !
Cheers
Gary
-
Try www.parkersteel.co.uk they might be able to fix you up
Hth
Gary
-
I fitted a rear discovery axle to my D reg 110 and used a 300 tdi 110 prop which was the correct length , Hth
Gary
-
^^^^ like he said I would check out your permitted development rights , it's usually a certain amount of sq mtrs , no more than 2.4 to eaves and 4 mtrs to ridge , I'm sure it would give you a fairly good size garage . Definitely worth checking out with the council.
Hth
Gary
De-EDC a disco?
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Hi
Somewhere on lr4x4 is a write up about how to remove edc completely off a discovery , Pete Attryde was the author of the thread
Hoth
Gary