AJM90V8

Now I just need to sell the vehicle!

Just for anyone reading this post in the future: I changed in the Engine number on the V5 and sent it off - with just a Post-It note attached saying similar type of engine, same capacity. New V5 returned without question - thanks all for the advice.

Thanks MuddyWinny. I will try a garage, maybe even the local LR dealership. Their letter should carry authority! Indeed I meant to say DVLA!

Thanks, could try that but they clearly state on the website that proof is required. I would guess things probably have changed. angus

Back around 1990 I had the engine in my 90 changed by a local Land Rover specialist. For some reason - I don't recall now - I never got around to getting the V5 changed. Now I want to sell the vehicle and it is obviously an issue. i don't have the paperwork (two house moves later) and the garage has gone in the meantime. VOSA require proof to change an engine number - how should I approach this? If it makes a difference, the engine was swapped for a similar Land Rover V8 (ex range Rover to be precise) from a vehicle of about the same age: C reg I think vs. my D reg though I don't have any proof of this. (Matches engine number in V8 database)

I think mine has an AGA under the bonnet otherwise called a V8. I am never cold.

Fitted one to my V8 '90 many years ago -1996- and still going OK. Picked up an advisory "slight exhaust leak" on the last MOT but it is so small I can't find it. Generally I would say quality "very good" (at least back then) but I did find at the time that there were a few errors with the misc fitting parts supplied (nuts, bolts, gaskets) though these were sorted by Rimmer. +1 for Rimmer from me.

IMHO the seals are more important than the bearings. Fit first class bearings but if your seals are not great they will very soon be shot. Personal experience with Timken - generally thought to be good - lasting only a few thousand miles.

To cut the story short: while checking various as suggested I found that the nut holding the upper arm ball joint (if I have the terminology right) to the axle was loose. Not just loose but halfway off - and with no split pin in place. Totally amazed by this because I do almost all work myself - but after an MOT issue just before I SORNed the vehicle I had it replaced professionally.... So a spanner and a split pin fixed this issue in no time at all. So first prize to ejparrot for being in the right area without actually hearing the "clunk"

Thanks for all the thoughtful replies! Foolishly posted this in my MOT-pass enthusiasm just before going away on holiday; so sorry for appearing to ignore everything. Back now and I'll be on it over the next few days. Will definitely post what I find. PS: my vehicle is a "D" reg V8, LT85/LT230 mostly original running gear though with chassis & body rebuilt. Don't remember such a clunk before I SORN'd it...

Now that my vehicle has an MOT and I am driving it again... It seems there is some play in the transmission somewhere which can make a noticeable clunk if I am not careful changing gear. In fact if I am driving on the level and accelerate-decelerate it is quite definite. Obviously there are quite a few candidates - does anyone have any suggestions for a technique to identify where the problem is? I would say, more towards the back than in front, that's about all I can tell so far. Thanks!

If you buy a kit like the Britpart DA2380 then you will get all the bits you need - bearings, seals, washer, gasket, grease even - plus some that I don't understand why like a new nut - and all for £12-15 each side!

A bit of a delay on this post... But just to finish off, as I hoped after new bearings and oil seals at the back: my trusty V8 90 collected its MOT

Here's my log splitter and keeps me fit too http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Landscaping/d130/Log+Splitting/sd3179/Roughneck+Wood+Grenade+256+x+92+x+82mm/p40058