muddyplugger

Thanks chaps!

In a nutshell, I have had the front faulty ABS wheel sensor and hub replaced to banish those damn lights. However (isn't there always an However!), however now the 3 amigos are intermittent, which is better than it was (passed its MOT), but my local Independant chap has tried all to extinguish the lights with various purging codes to God knows what other buttons LR RAVE system has. It transpires that the ABS modulator is the fellow causing the intermittent fault; so I can buy a 'repair kit', which is not guaranteed to work, or splash out for a new/recon modulator! The former still is a few hundred quid all in, and the latter is running to more hundreds of quids! Any one any experience of this?? I suspect every SeriesII Disco owner has been here! Thanks.

Further down the list - Possibly a wheel bearing?

Submit your website to free web directory listing (or several), as the best way to get listed is have lots of links. lots of links, lots of links. This is why the Admin on here spend a huge portion of their time deleting new members just looking for traffic! (I assume they do, as I do it everyday on a forum that I mod!) Don't even bother using Googles submission tool, it is the same as the 'close door' button on lifts (Not wired up but great for frustration). Google, as do others, index pages rather than websites, so ensure your keywords, metatags etc are correct for your niche and as mentioned previously, a bit of text goes a long way. Search engines love text! Listing with the others takes time, often weeks or a month, just keep submitting your site to their 'submit your url to yahboo here' link, or use the free url listing sites that are plentiful. Just an off the wall thought, Really what you need to do is also have lots of back links too, so get everyone to submit their site to you and in return they will list your site, hey presto mutual increase in links for everyone and let the webots do their stuff.

My2p worth: 600x800 perfect. I would centre your site on the screen, just a bit easier on the eye. I love your arrangement on the home screen, and if I were you I would use that same basic design throughout your site. Steer well clear of frames though! If you cant manage to keep the home page design through the site then at least keep the same top logo on each page. Think about those visitors who arrive from a search engine in the middle of your site! You also need that same first impression on each page. As you become more adept at this then mouse over buttons are great 'style over content' a simple swapimage code is quite easy once you've got the hang of it. Remember the search engine wars, easy enough to list your sites with most search engines for free, but google uses a different method whereby your rankings are based on how many other sites point to you (if you see what I mean), so to get noticed on google your url will need to be on many many other sites, and their webots do the rest. Anth. edited: I notice you do not have a stat counter, I would suggest only using a hidden counter, and their are loads of free ones out there, statcounter.com for one. They provide a lot of useful info such as where people came from, screen size, keywords they used, geographical location etc etc etc.

My 90 (200TDi disco engine) runs between 82 in the cold with no load to 96 when up to my eyes in mud/low range and baking sun. Generally sits between 88 and 92, dependant on motorway speeds. I think I have an 88 degree thermostat IIRC.

My local 'radiator specialist workshop' (one bloke on a trading estate who does radiators and fuel tanks) installed a 300tdi rad in my defender for £100, it wasnt worth me buying one and fitting it myself for that price!

Now I feel better!!! BONG BONG...... ha ha ha!

I think I've come to the end of my tether with all the ****** lights in my dash! The HDC/TC/ABS have been illuminated for a year and every time I look at buying a wheel sensor for £60 and the mammoth task to replace the thing on the DII, I just open another beer! That, and it may be the modulator!?! Now the SRS red light has started to join in!!! The thing is my ABS and TC still works, even with all the lights annoying me, so I am reluctant (change to can't be bothered) to do anything about them, however test time looms, so I need the ABS light fixed along with the SRS. One of my thoughts was to remove some ABS fuses, but tried 2 of them (not the relay) and the lights continue! Can I just remove all the fuses/relays related to these systems and put a sticker on the dash with a warning 'This vehicle is not fitted with ABS' to get through the test?? I realise airbags may save your life, but my defender steering wheel looks like it may kill you without a crash! We take risks everyday, so removing the airbag system only increases it by 0.0000001% Is the other option to get behind the dash, remove the bulbs, and wire the ABS light to the bulb for the glow plug? Or shall I sell the damn thing and buy a people carrier.

I know a lot of web designers frown on Frontpage, infavour of Dreamweaver for instance, but for myself the simplicity and familiarity to Windows is why I love it. I do not have any experience of web design nor do I work in computers, but manged to write these two sites over a few evenings and beer: Where I do a bit part time work www.theoldpitpractice.co.uk and my own (under development) site www.muddyplugger.co.uk Edited to note: Mr Onions (on this forum) is a free lance web designer (in his spare time).

Yup, did exactly the same, I got 5x 235/85/16's on black modulars delivered for a shade under £400 beginning of this year. (Direct from the Colway factory in Langley Park, Durham) Admittedly they are Colways AT's (with a 'similar' pattern to the BFG's), and I have used his brand for several years without problem.

Heres a photo of the difference between 205/70x16 and 235/85x16 ther is a link in the tech archive here on how to trim wheel arches. (if needed) and changing the speedo drive gear is easy job, if you want to do it. Mine was on a defender but, the taller tyres didnt make much change in the speedo, infact made it accurate. I fitted the blue gear drive as I'd bought it already!

Initially I thought a lift would be a good idea, until someone asked the question: Why? If the honest answer is to look smart, then a fit some larger diameter tyres, say 235/85x16's, they wont break the bank, easy to fit without big tools and then lift is under the diff (where you need it). When you do evetually get round to lifting it, and lets face it they do look nice B) , you already have the tyres. (In my opinion, a 2" lift without larger tyres doesnt look quite as pretty!)

Onions and myself are looking into organising another green lane trip for 'Shineys' in Durham/North Yorks or Durham/Northumberland in the New Year. We did this earlier this year for a few mates with 4x4's who don't venture past Tesco's car parks! You are welcome on the next trip, so I will keep you informed. We took in 7 lanes and two fords, had lunch at the highest pub in britain and managed to squeeze a pint in before tea! The lane to the pub for Lunch:

B*gger! The frame does seem rather tight against the lock, so I guess I was just hoping it may be ok.

Are you selling it? I always say it is worth what you want to pay. (....but I would say a ball park figure of 4.5K (in GBP)) My 200Tdi cruises at 65 perfectly well, but above that is a tad noisy and feels like something will break! SO all in all sounds pretty normal to me.

Graeme Wood is the Glass rep for your/our area, really good guy. Drives a 101. Here is his email through GLass: northumberland.rep@glass-uk.org Co.Durham/Northumberland has some of the best lanes in the country [hardhatmodeon], and if I'm not mistake one of the longest too.

Has anyone replaced the door latch/motor assembly on a Series II disco? The central locking does not pop it up, but locks it OK. I had the door skin off today and can feel a slight click within the latch itself when it tries to unlock. Unfortunatly its not like the good old 200/300's with a separate actuator, the whole thing is one unit! (Incase any one searches in the future the part no is FQJ102890, £58 is the cheapest!) My queston is that can the latch be removed without taking the window frame out like it suggests in the Workshop Manual? - Cos that looks like a real faff on!

Right, I have downloaded the utorrent program you are using. Go to: Options>preferences, click on 'downloads' in the left coloumn and then on the right will be a box saying 'Location of downloaded files'. Go to that loaction on your PC and you shall find. B)

The film is hidden treasure on your PC. Search for it and you will find. Start>Search>filename

As touched upon, Rover turned over it's factories for the war effort (under the shadow factory scheme) which were used to build engines and tanks mostly. They produced engine parts more specifically for the Hercules radial engines. (Solihull area). Rover were also servicing and repairing these radial engines throughout the war. They also had factories in Coventry specifically working on wing components for the Lancaster, but a were hit heavily in the early part of the war by the Luftwaffe. Rover (and the Government) developed back-up underground factories at Kiddiminster that fed Solihull and Acocks Green. These were closed down at the end of the war. Rover did indeed play an instrumental part in the war effort.

I refer to my previous post the utorrent is not the actual file. And you probably right at 786Mb, that would equate to a vcd. Go rent the film.

Or do this:

uTorrent is a bittorrent client not a programe file. I assume you have a 'torrent file' which is only the details of the file, what it is and how big it is. This file points the 'tracker' to the host of computers which have that specific file, and thus you download. The downloaded file will be in your downloads folder (where you set it up to save it.) If I have explained what you already know then I apologise, and I refer to what Paul said; What is the file extension?