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Everything posted by Stambecco

  1. I'm no expert but personally, I'd prefer to continue with the beefy cables to the fuse box. The fuse box is rated to 100 amp so I would use cables able to cope with that. I may be wrong but.......
  2. Stambecco


    Agreed but this has taken a hit from a tractor and presumably wasn't shaking before.
  3. Stambecco


    Have a look underneath to see if there is anything obviously bent, like the drag link. If both the front wheels are wobbly then it's unlikely to be from the wheels themselves, more like a bent rod. Jack it up and have a feel around.
  4. I wonder if that's a bit from an Arctic heater system?
  5. Hi, I have power steering pump ntc8287 and need the pump to reservoir hose, (rhd). I have seen the correct part in workshop manual diagrams but in the actual photos of the seller websites they don't have the banjo fitting but just a plain rubber end. Could I need the TD engine version? Mine is an early 200. Thank you very much and happy New year to all!!
  6. Internal diameter of mine at the tail pipr (200Tdi) is 50 mm. External 54 mm Engine external is 57 mm do 2 mm thick would be around 53 ish
  7. Would that mean the water pump is on its way out?
  8. Thank you very much. I will have a look. Cheers.
  9. Hi there, I am asking on behalf of a friend, who is in need of a workshop manual for a Range Rover Sport 2005 TDV6 2.7. I think it's quite an early type with the knob dial for drive settings. I can't find any. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks a lot.
  10. Thank you, sounds like a plan.
  11. Cancel that! It fits but only just. I will source another one and hope it:s a bit longer. Thanks.
  12. 1990 200Tdi 110. I have a coolant leak from a water pump hose. I ordered part number ERR1424 but when it looks a lot smaller than the existing one, photo attached. Could somebody please help me out with the correct part number? Thank you very much.
  13. I would check the swivel preloads, all the ball joints, steering column ujs and that everything steering related us all torqued up properly.
  14. Regarding the diff lock light, hold the lever to the left and drive forward a couple of feet. The light doesn't always come on when static. I would check all the track rod ends and drop arm ball joint. I don't think there is any problem relocating the seat belt anchor, providing it has a heavy duty fixing with a thick front and back plate but I don't know.
  15. http://www.4x4overlander.com/product/wheel-carrier-pre-2002/ I have this one which is very heavy duty and sits the wheel in a position, slightly to the right, allowing the use of the tow hitch, even a NATO hitch. It has grease nipples also. The wheel is still in the way when operating the jockey wheel on a Sankey though.
  16. Thanks. It was the front I was confused about. Cheers.
  17. Defender 110 (H) 200Tdi (RHD) Hello, please can someone confirm that the sequence in the Haynes is correct for my vehicle. I had always thought it started with the furthest away first, working towards the master cylinder. The order in the Haynes is slightly different. Thank you.
  18. Hi, I have just fitted Old Man Emu springs and shocks to my Tdi110, to replace the exact same, older ones I fitted 14 years ago. I find them to be excellent and give good service. The old springs, when removed, were the same free height as the new ones but now the vehicle sits noticeably taller, especially at the front and the ride is much better due to the new shocks and bushes. I used rear springs 2755 and front 2751 which is medium duty and it sounds like you have a similar setup to mine. I would recommend these. The shocks were the sport ones, part numbers ending in 37&39, however, they have plastic boots but the older metal type are still available. They were from island 4x4. The ride is firm and positive without being stiff and would give the required lift over the originals. I know they're not cheap but I believe they are worth it in the long run. I have only used this make and genuine original ones and have no experience of other makes.
  19. Ok, thanks for the info. The rears were ok and as you say, no difference in height, the front was sitting lower. I removed the spare from the bonnet but it didn't help much. The shocks had gone soft and that was the reason I finally got round to replacing them and went for new rears as well. They are the exact same make and model, just a different length of wire. Thanks for your reassurance in that they will serve me well.
  20. I see. Why would they use less wire? I didn't realise they didn't wear out. I assumed sagging was due to the years of stress on the metal. Cheers.
  21. Just an observation. Changed my 15 year old springs and shocks on my 110 today, using the same ome part numbers, 755 rear, medium duty coils. The new ones have two less coils. Same height but surely won't last as long. It seems everything is being downgraded to save money. Could there be another reason for this? I'm just curious.
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