Stambecco

Thanks a lot, I will get my thinking cap on.

Nice job Muddi Camel, is that just aluminium?

Apologies for not following up sooner. Thank you for the replies and ideas. I'm not as concerned as I was after reading that some of you have left it off. Initially, I'll have a go with some exhaust wrap stuff and see. It's not too bad but was just planning ahead. It's the second part I've noticed is difficult to find. The other one, for 200tdi Defender and I expect TD engines, is the original air intake scoop/elbow on the side of the wing, internal section, required for fitting layer model raised air intakes. It can be overcome though. Thanks again.

Hello, Does anybody know of an alternative heat shield or a way to repair them using a suitable material? New ones, when available, cost £250!! Thanks.

Just to conclude the story. New switch fitted this morning and we have success! The other switch was indeed faulty. Cheers.

Having carried out all the suggested tests, thanks to the input from you all, it seems like the switch is a dud. I'll order another. Thanks again To be continued.....

It could be sticking because the expander mechanism is dirty? Mine had a sticking handbrake once and that's all it was.

Only if the wire is connected, otherwise no. I have traced the wire along the whole length, all the way to the bulb. The wire is white with brown trace from the bulb to multiplug. From the multiplug in the engine bay, to switch it is white with brown dabs. It could be the printed circuit but then, the light does come on if the switch wire is earthed to something else so......

Latest installment...I have cleaned everything and meter now shows continuity from brass hex to oil filter housing, no continuity from spade to hex or housing. If I connect the wires then there is positive continuity from spade to everywhere. still nothing on the dash. I think it must be something I'm overlooking. Could it be to do with ignition to dash wiring????? I found the old box the switch came in, it's a Karsons and PRC 6387. I don't think it's faulty. Oh well!

No continuity there either, I agree, that is odd. Knowing me, I would have put a smear of multipurpose grease on there but just a light blob. It could be that getting in the way I suppose.

I have tested for continuity on various parts of the switch, no reaction from the meter. My meter should sound a tone but it doesn't, likewise on the old switch which I still have. I'll try another switch. Thanks again for all the help.

yes! The last one was in a red box but I can't remember the make now.

Roger.

Ok, I'll do that tomorrow. I would think the switch body is earthed via the threads if not the brass nut.

That may well be the case, I can't think of any reason for it not to work. The reason I bought a new switch was because the original light didn't work so when the new one didn't work either, I presumed a wiring problem. I may as well order another switch to see if it does the trick. Cheers.

Ok so, I have tested for continuity along the whole length of wire from the switch to the bulb, including all junctions, terminals and connectors. My meter gives a positive tone in each case. The light comes on with ignition if I earth the switch spade connector but still not if I reconnect it to the switch which is brand new. I think I'm just going to scratch my head some more then insert a new wire from bulb to switch. Thank you for all your help.

Yes, I only connected the solenoid wire for elimination purposes, it's staying firmly where it belongs. I am going to get the meter on the case later. Thanks.

Thanks, I'll have a play with the meter and dig deeper behind the light panel. If all fails, I'll run the new wire directly to the dash light. I don't get how the light comes on when the pressure switch is connected to the stop solenoid wire. That would suggest the wire behind the light panel is good.

I haven't tried that yet, the spade connector is an insulated female but I'll have a fiddle. Thanks.

Is it, cut the opposite end and bypass the multiplug?

I still don't get where to plug the bullet onto. One end with new spade connector to new switch, which is now in place, the other end to the multiplug which contains the existing wire. Which bit do I cut? Sorry for my confusion. The screwdriver points to the switch wire on the multiplug.

Indeed, oil light on dash works, albeit with the wrong cable! I have now removed all the conduit and tape to expose the whole length of wire (white with brown splodges) from the switch to the multiplug. There are no breaks and using a tester lamp, there is power at both ends when the ignition is on. If I put a new wire from the switch, how and where do I connect the other end at the multiplug? Thanks and Happy New Year!

Thanks very much Western, I'll investigate tomorrow. Appreciate your help.

If it's the rear, one must be careful to make sure the handbrake drum is secured.

Hi, Defender 110 200Tdi 1990 (H) I'm confused. Oil pressure switch not working, bought new one, still not working. Thought maybe I had the wires mixed up with the stop solenoid, swapped them over, oil light on dash now comes on, however, engine won't start! Swapped the back, engine starts straight away, no oil light!! Any ideas? Thank you very much.