I had them on mine before upgrading to +3"s and +2" blocks.
They do make for a choppy ride though. Will cause CDs to skip and jarring offroad.
They were designed for the police for motorway use to help with the payload and high speed manouvers.
Not ideal off road.
If you just want a lift then blocks will be your cheapest route.
Remeber though that these only lift the vehicle and not the diffs and also that your rear shocks will be stretched by the size of the block limiting your droop travel.
lowered shock mounts or extenders will get over this but generally at cost !
There are loads of people making blocks and droped mounts etc. do your homework on these as some are better than others.
As long as blocks etc are securely bolted in then you should have no probs at MOT time.
I made a set for an old rangie I had (grunter has it now)
I welded 50mm box section into the cups as this means they cant fall out. You could weld them to another set of spring cups as they would locate over the axle then and be held by weight even if a bolt did fail. I would use nuts underneath rather than the original threaded section (captive nut) and go up one size for extra strength. I now have a set of ally ones machined to fit snugly in the cups. B)
If you go the 50mm box route cut the ends to suit the cup rather than straight. Easily done with template made from card. This gives a slightly bigger base on the axle.
A body lift is a cheap way to get bigger tyres on without upsetting the suspension geometry but involves a bit more than half a dozen spacers ! You need to support the rear floor and extend the seatbelt ties (if fitted) . You also need longer brake lines , sort the steering link and possibly extend the gear,hi/low selectorsand possibly the opening for them. You will need to extend the bumper mounts and fuel lines/wiring to chassis mounted items.
Body lifts generally are harder (more expensive) to insure than suspension lifts too !
