garryc

Cutting a long story short can anyone tell me how thick the seat bases are on LR deluxe seats for a Series? Ive got 90 seats fitted in my lightweight and I struggle a bit to get in between the base of the seat and the bottom of the steering wheel. I wondered if the original deluxe seats would give me more clearance given there is no sliding frame etc. As ever, thank you for the assistance.

Acquired an LT230 from a CDL equipped Disco 2. Fitted it into our 53 plate auto. All good. But.... I am trying to connect the hi-lo switch and the diff lock switches. I have a green and yellow wire coming from the hi-low switch to a socket on the top of the housing. That would appear to connect to an equivalent receiving socket - but the cables out of that are red/white. When I ground the red/white the transfer box in neutral warning light comes on. So that would appear to be correct. When I look at the C0681 connector, I don't have a wire coming out of pin 7 and down to the diff lock switches. On the side coming from the main harness the expected black/blue wire is there. Which I assume goes off to the SLABS. I have the two spade connectors on the box near the spigot. When I wired one up in a series 3 lightweight there was no SLABS. So it was a simple case of wiring the spade terminals with a feed into a warning light on the dash. I've tried grounding the feed wire into pin 7 -black/blue - but no dashboard light illuminates. Is it that I have to t-splice into the incoming feed into pin 7, connect that to the spade terminal and then earth the other spade? Or is there a return back to the SLABS? As ever, thank you so much for your kind assistance. So my question is do I need to splice into

Nige, That sounds painful. Sorry to hear that Let me know if you've got it and how much you want for it. Thanks

Has anyone any experience of fitting an LSD or Quaife type differential to a S3? Looking for options to improve rear traction on my 82 Lightweight. Thank you

Is there a special tool for refitting the oil seal in the TD5 hubs? Or a particular technique to stop them getting damaged whilst pressing them ? Thank you

Does anyone know of a PCD adapter which allows D2 wheels to be fitted to a series 3? Thank you.

53 plate TD5. Rear door lock has failed with the door locked shut. Thankfully with the door card removed. Pulling the internal release lever doesn't work. Neither does moving the levers attached to the mechanism. And I can't open the door to remove the mechanism. Any advice would be very welcome. Thank you.

David, I joined the club as you suggested and I have contacted Alan to send my membership details through. Can you advise me which member I need to be speaking to? Thank you.

My Lightweight is registered as an X suffix - 1981/82. But the V5c says date of first registration as 06.07.2001. That is when the previous owner (who bought from MoD disposal) registered the vehicle. In order to obtain historic status I have to get DVSA to recognise that the date of manufacture is circa 1981/82. And I have ordered a British Motor Heritage certificate to prove that date - still waiting for it at the moment. DVSA delays to get paperwork done is horrific at the moment. Ive waited over three months for them to change the fuel type from petrol to diesel; just got the amended V5 back today. And Im concerned that if I send off the BMG certificate when it arrives having paid £35 odd to obtain it that the chances of DVSA returning it to me are slim. Mind you, if I were to lose the BMH certificate at £35 but save the RFL and MoT cost I suppose I am still saving money. Bizarre but pragmatic.. Anyway, here's my question, has anyone tried to get the registration date changed at a Post Office using the BMH certificate and a V112 form to prove the date of build or does it have to go to DVSA? In which case with the delays there and the time it will take them to actually change the date and the status it should be classified as antique not historic... As ever, thank you for your kind assistance

I’ve acquired a Td5 (2003 MY) because it’s getting too cold to green lane in the lightweight and I want a bit more comfort. I want to change the standard (high-spec) radio for a single din DAB radio. But the current radio seems to be significantly bigger appearance in height from a single din. Before I take it out can I ask does it need a fascia plate to take up any gap; if so any ideas who does them? Thank you.

So let me start off saying thank you as ever for the kind support on this forum. It’s really appreciated. As an update, new slave cylinder blew within 100 yds of the house. To give a bit more background and detail the setup up is; 300tdi mated to r380 via a stumpy bell housing. R380 has short pinion kit fitted by Ashcroft Transmissions who I have always found exceptionally helpful. The pushrod is 65mm as advised on many posts. Slipper pads are standard. Clutch fork is heavy duty one. It had a brand new clutch kit fitted; again heavy duty The truck has been a garage queen for a number of years whilst I’ve been finishing off jobs on her. And it’s been in and out of the garage regularly under her own steam until a week ago when for no obvious reason the slave cylinder blew the rubber end cap off and drained itself via the drain hole in the bell housing. Prior to that pedal was nice and felt normal. I replaced the slave cylinder but on bleeding it (once I had it the right way up - thanks western) the pedal was much, much firmer and took a conscious effort to press down to the floor. And the clutch bite point was almost at top of pedal travel. Previously it bit about half way up. I drive it out the garage, left it idling for a minute, drive it forwards and backwards about three times outside the house before heading off down the road. As I selected second gear, the pedal went all the way to the floor and I lost drive again. As with the first occasion I can move the gear lever through all gears with engine running which suggests clutch plate is not in contact with the fly wheel. Removed slave cylinder and found the same result. Rubber cap blown off as before. Re-assembled slave (hopeful as ever) re-fitted it and it blew whilst bleeding. Pedal went very firm and then it just blew. And that’s where I’m at. Before I have to take the box out and undo all the work I’ve done on floors, seat box, seats etc, has anyone any ideas? Particularly as I’ve now got only one weekend left to work on her before Peterborough show. As ever, thank you for your kind assistance.

No. I’ve got it at the bottom. Easier access and laziness. Thank you for advice I’ll flick it other way up tomorrow.

As western diagnosed, dead slave cylinder. Replaced it today. It needs further bleeding as it’s like an on/off switch at the moment and loads of air bubbles still coming through bleed nipple. But much better than stripping the gearbox out. Thanks for all the kind assistance. Really appreciate it. I feared we wouldn’t be able to get to the LRO show at Peterborough.

Thank you for all the advice. In the end I bought the brass bleed plug, drilled a 14mm hole and tapped it to 5/8 unf so a standard series sensor would fit. Works perfect. Thank you

Getting ltwt out of garage. Clutch pedal went straight down to floor. Clutch fluid leaking out of drain hole in bell housing. No drive at all. Can move between gears with engine running. No issues at all beforehand. It’s an r380/300 tdi installation. Any ideas? Thank you