wee_arthur

Okay so doing the 24 tests, for test 11 (fuel temperature sensor) i get 1200 ohms which is telling me its 40degrees? i live in scotland :L This the problem do you think? The rest of them work out right, coolant thermistor was about 60 degrees, but i had it running a few times before that. For test 17 (airflow sensor) im geting 0.7V where it says it should be 0.3 - 0.6v, i thought this was acceptable?

Thanks for the help lads, ended up getting a hold of another ECU and it ran like it should until... about 30 seconds after every start it coughs and splutters and doesn't like any throttle. Any ideas on this? Runs sweet as a nut on first startup then about 20/30 seconds later it goes to a very bad idle and if you touch the throttle even gently it dies. Is the fuel pump relay the one with the diode in it ? cheers guys this is geting tiring trying to sort V8's

Ahhh, i never knew that wheres the best place to get these just to get the two relays?

But if i switch the two relays around, the main relay still clicks in? Can this rule the relay being faulty out ? Would the fuel temperature sensor cause this problem? or will it start just roughly ?

Just twisted but they put a special heat shrink over it that has glue in it , supposed to be a better connection than solder and if you need to you can cut the heatshrink and the glue and untidy the wires. It's the auto electricians up here who work on the lorries, fair few of them doing it now. So the only wire that this would happen to must be the -ve coil as this causes the ecu not to kick in the fuel pump ?

Hotwire Fridge. And Steve the connections between the car and the engine are twisted and glue heat shrink on top like the automotive guys do these days. Could it be this ?

Hi folks wondering if you could help me, The motor ran great for the later part of the year not getting much use apart from events or shifting it out of the garage. But for a few nights we needed the garage and left it outside, With the temperature dropping below 0 for several nights, i went out to put it back in and it didnt want to start. Its a 3.9 V8 efi from a range rover converted into a defender. The fuel pump isnt kicking in either to prime or on crank. The engine starts but if you touch the throttle harshly it will cut out. Feels as iff its sucking the fuel rather than the fuel pump doing its job. This says to me ecu, and having problems before with the grounds not being right i tested these first, all okay. Pretty much stumped, how could the temperature have caused this?

The kick down cable i would presume is correctly fitted as the kickdown does work. How do you richen the mixture on an injection engine? unsure about the vacuum pipe but i shall do some research. Thanks for the fast response. William

Hi all, I put a 3.9 EFI auto from a rangie into my defender and having some trouble with it, i thought the range rover section was the best place to put this. 1. The auto box seems to be making the engine stall, really have to hold the brake and rev the engine to keep it running. 2. The auto box wont select some gears, for example sitting still and idling, select reverse and accelerate and the motor wont move until the engine revs come back to idle. ? the same happens with drive but not to the same degree. The box was working fine in the rangie. The only thing we have done to this in the conversion is removed the oil cooler to try it out, we only do trials so the gearbox doesn't get a chance to get too hot. But in the removal of this could enough oil have been lost to cause all of these problems? if so what oil should i use and should i do a complete flush? Thanks for reading and any help in advance, William

Hi again, A wee challenge for you. After another good few days on the defender i am not feeling any more confident about this conversion So the new ECU that Nige sent me had the same outcome so i now have a spare Chipped ecu maybe Anyway, gazing at wiring diagrams and using the technical checks that Nige showed me above. So here is where we start ... Start with the turning the ignition on. The following happens, The main relay clicks on fuel pump relay does nothing power is sent to the injectors and all sensors But when the ignition is turned off the fuel pump relay stays energized and the only way to deactivate it is to remove the relay and turn off the battery isolator. Another one of the diagnostic checks that does not turn up true is the mass air flow sensor which is supposed to show ranges of 0.4 to 0.6v with ignition on but i was getting 4v. Could this be the problem? would it start if the sensor was broke? and would this explain the fuel pump relay not going on? I apologise for the legnth of this but i wish to give a full picture. Thanks Again

Hopefully see you there Marcus

also on the coil front, am i right in saying there should be one white/black wire which comes from the MAF sensor loom tail and onto the negative side of the coil. And along with this there should be an ignition to the coil from another multiplug which includes all the other warning symbols etc. Hopefully get this resolved soon, another 4 hours this morning. Its like hitting your head off of the dash.

The unit has only just gonw in the car and this is the initial install that i am having trouble with. Okay so wires: (these are connected to the main cable connector as in diagram above.) White = Ignition, [checked this via the test in Nige's post further up] green/orange = main positive, [the diagram says brown but i reckon they ran out of brown wire; also tested ] white/purple = fuel pump then to ground black/yellow = not connected yellow = not connected orange/black = neutral switch [am i right in saying this is normally closed when out of park?] purple/yellow = not connected That is the 7 wires on the diagram that i have wired up, there is 8 wires on this plug however Don't know what the other is.

Okay so a little update, I now have both relays fully functional and in the proper setup. The problem is the main relay is held on after the first time the ignition is turned on. The only way to release the relay is by removing it and replacing it in the system. Also the fuel relay doesnt even attempt to power the fuel pump. Im starting to think this ECU has "had it"

Okay so i have diagnosed that both relays are "kaput" so bought another couple and will check the resistance between pin 87 and 87a to see if they are internally connected. I also discovered that i accidentally misplaced the fuse output as a fuse input to the fuel pump via the fuse. So this would cause the relays to blow So hopefully after these new relays are in i hope the main relay and fuel relay will work, and voila hopefully. Thats my theory. Will get back to hopefully spread good news.